Buckets of Rain......

This title is inspired by a number of things.   Most obviously, they play Bob Dylan EVERYWHERE here.  I, of course, am not complaining, and it certainly is much much better than the continuous loop of Jack Johnson I heard while traveling SE Asia last time around.  

Secondly, the rainy season does seem to have officially begun here.  Its offered a welcome cool down to the slightly stifling heat, though it is still pretty hot.  The only true downside is the fact that my computer accompanies me to work and about most days, so I found myself a bit at the mercy of the weather, as I would have no problem biking home, but my MacBook might.

"Buckets of Tears" felt more apt recently.   I began doing interviews last week, and had a rather heartbreaking day last Sunday.   I met with an HIV/AIDS support group, run in part by the amazing, local, Mae Tao Clinic.  The participants were kind enough to let me ask them some questions, and I was truly awed by the sense of hope and strength the interviewees possessed.   Most of them had migrated to Thailand for work, but as the disease developed they've found themselves to weak to work, and surviving on the support of organizations like the clinic and MSF.   Many had not seen their families in years, and were to scared to tell them about their illness, because of the attached stigma in Burma.  Of course the most heartbreaking were their children, some of whom were also HIV+, but all of whom had at least one parent that is being kept alive by donated medicine.    

Despite the sadness I felt, I was awed by the courage and optimism I witnessed.   One woman told me how happy she is to wake every morning, glad to see a new day.  Another, whose health has thankfully remained well so far, spoke about how lucky she felt to be able to inspire others who are HIV+ with her own health.  Before we left Eh Wah and I bought some snacks and candies for the children, and spent some time watching the role playing exercises the group was participating in.   The kids happily and politely accepted the candy we had, and ran around chasing inflated condom balloons, clearly over-joyed with the day.   We were a big hit, as several of our interviewees asked to take pictures with us before we left.

The day was certainly sad, and I went through a bit of an emotional withdrawal when I left.  I am working on detaching a bit, which seems like a useful skill for the line of work I am planning to be involved in.  For now I am just hoping I can do justice to the stories I heard, and make sure people's voices are heard.   

I know I've heard from many of you about my lack of blogging, I will try to be better!     Post comments, knowing people are reading is a motivation to write!

I haven't figured out how to post pictures to blogger just yet, but heres a link to Picassa, enjoy.......

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/ChiangMaiAndFirstDaysInMaeSot?authkey=Gv1sRgCJTGg56OvNzq1AE#

A glimpse of Mae Sot (and my own blessed life)

This is a vibrant, diverse city (town) that is hard to put into words. That's what cameras are for! Unfortunately, my computer and internet do not seem to agree, so while I struggle to upload some photos onto some internet format, I will do a bit to give you a glimpse to my first real week here.
As I've already written about, Mae Sot often feels more like Burma than it does Thailand! This has both positive and negative aspects. I will just cover the positives now; as I am sure Mae Sot's downsides will come out at a later date! I certainly feel fortunate to immerse myself in a culture so few outsiders get to see. "A culture" is not, in fact, a correct term, as the world that has formed here is a mixture of ethnicities in Culture. It creates a thrill every time I walk outside. And it offers the opportunity to see how these many groups that often seem unable to co-exist inside Burma have come together, in the market, in various NGOs and really, wherever one looks. The kindness of the people of Burma might actually rival the Thais. I have never met such generous optimistic people! I cannot go anywhere, whether it is my agencies office, the local health clinic (which deserves its own entry, after interviews that should happen this week) or the local orphan school without being offered cold water, some fruit or even a meal. People who often have almost nothing go out of the way to share the little they have. This was most notable and the orphan school I visited a few days ago. A friend of a friend asked if I would like to visit his friend's school, which serves 120 + students, grades 1-10, who are orphans from the Karen State in Burma. As it is summer session there is currently only one teacher, an American man, who teaches English lessons 2 hours a day. The students were unbelievable! The only toys I noticed during my 3-hour visit were one Lego set and a few picture books. Yet all the children were happily entertaining themselves, older children watching out for younger ones, and not one child fighting or crying! Having cared for American children in a variety of settings this was beyond shocking! Witnessing the class was even more so, as the children all sat silently as their teacher explained "ages". It was unclear how much was being absorbed in such a large setting, but it was clear each child truly valued each minute of education he/she was lucky enough to receive. I admit I've become a bit jaded in the 2 years since I last left Asia, but this moment took me back, and made me realize how lucky I am to have lived the life I have. Hopefully I will have the chance to help out in the school in some context soon.
The reason I haven't already committed completely is that my work has gone into full swing since I have last written. Having finally created a work plan and a decent outline, I have had the chance to begin the interview process. Yesterday myself and a co-worker/translator/former student and I conducted TEN interviews with migrant workers, some of whom are HIV positive. Once again, I was struck by the positive nature the men and women I interviewed possessed. Some had not seen their families for years, having left Burma to support them. Most of them were stuck in low paying, factory jobs, for which they had risked their lives leaving their home towns and everyone they knew and loved. And some faced the extra hurdle of the devastating HIV illness. Everyone we spoke to spoke of his or her desire for Burma's government to better serve its people's health needs! FYI- The World Health Organization ranked Burma's Health program 190 out of 191, only Sierra Leone's ranked lower! This time I was reminded how fortunate I was that when I faced my own health scare I was able to access the care I did! People seemed happy to be able to share their stories, and I am honored to have the opportunity to do something positive with them.

Some procastination

I now have my own place and a bicycle (and a helmet,of course) making me as legal a resident of Mae Sot as most of the other inhabitants of this crazy city. I am still not sure what to make of this place, there seems far to much to take in. It will have to be captured in a different post. For now, a bit about the work I've been doing.
I am really enjoying the work I am doing. Yes, its only been a day, but if nothing else, it seems like it will be a great learning experience. As I think I have mentioned before, I am going to be writing a report on incidences of HIV/AIDS on the Burma border, especially in regards to women. The aims of the report are to highlight how Burma's goverment, the SPDC, so severly restricts human rights and economic opportunities, that women are often forced to choose sex work as there best option to sustain a livelyhood. As the government spends less than 1% on all health services, most women have little to no knowledge of HIV or other sexually transmitted diseases. When finished, the report will be distributed to relevant departments of international organizations. Besides everything I'm learning, I am getting VERY excited about school. I see how much I've been missing research, especially on a topic I am so interested in! Also notably, as I've perused the online databases. Johns Hopkins School of Public Health shows up over and over again. So it looks like I will be in the right place come fall!
I am still waiting for the interviews that have been conducted to be translated in English. Although this should have already been done, the positive side of this delay is I will have the chance to add additional relevant questions.
I have more to write, but a lovely Burmese man just walked by and handed me two, fresh off the tree mangoes! They are tempting me, and eating them anywhere near my computer could be a fatal mistake!
I'll end this post on a rather somber note. I am not sure how much the recent re-imprisimonet of Nobel Peace Prize Laurette Daw Aung San Suu Kyi has been covered in the media outside of Asia, but please take a few minutes to read about whats going on, and sign a petition. Needless to say, this has been the topic of most major talk here, and Yee and I spent some time yesterday drafting a press release. I will be sure to dedicate another post to explaining the signifigance of the Burmese goverment's latest ploy.
See here: http://burmapoint.com/index.php
or see, even CNN is covering it!
http://edition.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/asiapcf/05/14/myanmar.suukyi/index.html

Min Gala Ba From Mae Sot (aka little Burma)

Somehow I ended up with a "mini-vaca" in Chiang Mai, and, of course, I had no reason to complain.  I spent my extra days in Chiang Mai filling up on all my favorite Northern Thai delicacies, visiting with old friends and indulging in some of the western opportunities that Chiang Mai has to offer.  Most importantly these include yoga classes (very much needed) and movies (the sub-par Wolverine).  After this lovely little blast from the past it was finally time to head South West towards Mae Sot.

Myself, Yee, plus two of her friends piled into a "salon car" to make the journey towards Mae Sot.   Besides the fact that I found myself in a car filled with Canadians, which led to a "Canada's greatest one hit wonders play list" it was a beautiful journey.  The route towards Mae Sot is quite beautiful, through rural Thailand and finally through the winding roads of the lush mountains that form the natural borders between Thailand and Burma.  

Mae Sot, while less than five hours from Chiang Mai, feels a world apart.   At least half the population is Burmese, a fact evident by just a few glances through the main market.  Longyi clad people abound, as do women in Muslim head garbs,  Women's faces dotted with the milky white makeup many Burmese seem to favor.  Stalls offer packets of Burmese tea and common Burmese treats, and most of the conversations overheard are in Burmese.   Besides a feast for the eyes, the market also offers a feast for every taste bud.   All of my favorite Burmese foods are available.  More notable however, is the meat choices.  Even more than Thais, Burmese waste NO parts of an animal, and everything from pig snout to ox-tails and everything in-between is available.   While I tend to be relatively "flexaterian" when it comes to food when traveling, I was certainly happy to have the vegetarian excuse for time being!

I started work today.  The office visit began with even more warm meetings from some more former students who seemed even happier to see me!   And of course I was happy to see them, and hear about updates in their lives, most notably one recent marriage!  I am excited to get started on this report, which I should probably get back to now.  More dispatches from the border to come.......

Some updates and fast facts

I should be writing a whole entry, but so much seems to have happened in the past few days, and as I have yet to bunk down in one place, I think I will structure this entry as updates from Chiang Mai and some new fun facts about my life here so far! Read on!

Changes from my last time in Chiang Mai:
Khao Soy Consumption: Khao Soy, a northern Thailand speciality, might be one of my favorite foods in the world! I've been dreaming about it for over two years and talking about it rather regularly since I learned I would be back in Thailand. So imagine my surprise, when having my first (DELICIOUS, INDESCRIBABLE) bowl of Khao Soy this afternoon, I could not even finish it! I do plan on continuing to try.
Less surprising was the fact that I can no longer consume Sang Son the way I used to. This is probably a good thing for both my body and soul!
Apparently I curse Houses- I've spent the past few nights at Felicia and Todd's lovely home (if you are reading this, thanks again guys!). Somehow though, my presence there seems to have cursed the residence. I woke up the first morning with all the electricity out, which is not something that happens to often, or for more then a short time, in Chiang Mai. The next morning I awoke to a powered home that this time had no running water and no wifi! I'm not sure what I've done to have this power, but it is one I feel bad about. Fortunately for everyone involved, my lovely hosts can't host me the next few nights, which brings me to my next fun fact.....
I'm back in Tri Gong- The residency I lived in last time I was in CM, was one of the reasons my time so great. Located in a terrific spot of town, I had plenty of friends there, hot water, AC, wifi, and tons of stations on the TV (even Star World, which showed old episodes of Lost and The Office). Since I left, the owner, Adam, has transitioned his business to cater almost exclusively to tourists on short term stays. Adam, for those of you who don't know, is an extremely kind Thai man, who served as my "Thai father" while I was here. A father so over-protective he certainly put my dad to shame! Happily, when I stopped by the other night he greeted me with a warm smile and a loud clap of his hands as he shouted my name! He has offered me a super deal to stay for the next few nights. I'm happily sitting in my room (not the same as last time) watching The Wizard of Oz and enjoying unlimited AC!


By the Numbers:
This brings the total # of places I've stayed in the past 6 nights to 4. One night with a former student, one night at Kham Thi's (see below), 3 nights at Felicias and now Tri Gong for my remaining time in CM
The number of mosquito bites I have: so far I count 23. I'm sure by the time I post this it will be much higher. Why do I have the sweetest blood?!
Number of small Burmese children I've contemplated kidnapping: One! Those of you who followed my trip last time around, or listen to my countless Thailand story, might remember Kham Thi and Me Me. Kham Thi is a former co-workers, and one of my very good friends in CM. I used to give Me Me English lessons, which usually ended up as coloring events or dance parties. She did learn some very useful English words from me, including "give me five" "dance" and "guitar". She is now 9, and just as smart and full of energy as before. She gave me the warmest welcome I've received so far, running out to the motorbike to yell "I miss you" before I even got near the house. Kham Thi, is just as darling and hard working as ever, the only MAJOR change is she is now 8 months pregnant! Like most of the Burmese I know, this does not in any way hinder the work she does, but she did promise to take it a bit easy. Fortunately it sounds like she is taking care of herself, of course I did give her a lecture!
Number of Thai Massages- Just one so far, but that will change ASAP


Theres much much more to tell, but its past noon and I still haven't had anything to eat! I'm off to find more Khao Soy, and another massage as well.
Tales from Mae Sot are sure to come soon..........

Same Same but different!

"Same, Same but different" is a call farang tourists often hear when walking through any sort of touristy street market (the Chiang Mai night market and Kho Sahn Road being two examples). While the term is meant to imply the vendor has similar goods to one nearby, yet different (and therefore better), I noticed that phrase make its way into my thoughts the moment I stepped out of Chiang Mai's airport and into the hot, thick, Thailand air. Arriving late in the evening, 2 of my former (and I guess current again) co-workers met me at the airport and traveled with me back to my organizations lodgings. The drive home felt like a very odd dream. In a way it was as though I never left. I recognized a great deal of the sites we passed (Central Airport Plaza, some old friends' apartments, a former favorite restaurant, my old gym, etc.) and was hit with a flash of great memories, and in a way it felt as though I had never left. At the same time, things certainly felt different, as co-workers who I had once been close with acted shy towards me again, as if I were a new recruit, and I did notice many changes on the street (including at least one new KFC). All in all, it felt a bit surreal, though that might be in part to blame on the 26 hour trip!
On a different note, I got a stark reminder of my own American consumerism and materialistic values. Only 2 days ago I dedicated an entire blog entry to my pride in packing just one large pack! This accomplishment stayed with me throughout my entire journey, through the point when I happily learned that my bag had made it through the 3 flight luggage exchange and was with me in Thailand. My pride was dashed moments later, however, when I met my coworkers. They both started laughing, amazed that anyone could own, let alone pack, so many things! My pride quickly turned to embarrassment, as I realized how much (material goods and otherwise) I truly take for granted in the U.S.
I am finishing this post up at the Chiang Mai office, the same one I worked at 2 years ago! I've gotten to see some old students, which has been a special treat. One more surprise has been how much of my memory is tied up in my sense of smell. I realized this morning, when we stopped at the market for breakfast, how much I missed certain scents, even the bad ones!
I'm off now to eat some of the delicious fresh fruit I have been missing (mangosteen if you are curious)

14 Hours and one Bubble Tea Later

Free wi-fi and a 3 hour layover seemed a perfect reason to give a bit of an update. I just departed a 14 hour flight and am currently enjoy HKK's beautiful spotless airport. And with all my planning and packing I neglected to realize a very exciting fact. Hong Kong's airport is filled with places that serve bubble tea. So on that happy note I list some other "real time facts" from my trip so far:
Number of empty seats next to me on the plane:1
Numbers of hours slept on plane: 6.5 (this is great)
Numbers of Movies watched : 1- The Reader, a great film, but probably not the best choice as there was a young boy sitting diagonally behind me.
Numbers of TV Shows Watched: 2 (5 episodes of 30 Rock and 2 of Curb Your Enthusiasm)
Numbers of Sections of the NYTimes Read: 1 (The Week in Review)
Number of times Nicholas Kristoff proved he is my hero (today): 1 http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/03/opinion/03kristof.html?_r=1 This is a great piece and fits into my next fact-
Number of surgical masks spotted: Countless, the fear of swine flu pandemic seems to have caught hold here!
Numbers of books read from the 6 I carried on with me: Zero (to many other options)
Number of bubble teas consumed: 1 (and counting)
Perhaps the most exciting part of this trip so far is that I seem to have gained some "travel creed". Last time I did this trip I was certainly the lost looking girl, unsure which documents to present and thrown off guard by the different flight options etc. This time I had to flight partners approach me to ask advice about Hong Kong, including one law student, who as it turns out will be continuing on to Burma. Happily I was able to provide him ALL the information I had on travelling there.
It doesn't quite feel like I am on the other side of the world. So far I've checked my email and facebook and discovered that my phone does seem to work over here (*note* blackberry users). I have about another hour till my flight, I might take this time to stretch a bit, a search out some more bubble tea. Happy Monday Everyone!!!

I'm Packin'

There's no time to be modest here. I'm skilled in many things. Packing, however, is not one of them! Those of you who have traveled with me before, or had me as a visitor, know I tend to overpack, while forgetting something essential, like tooth-paste, or underwear. While I can't claim success in the latter quite yet, after many packings, un-packings and re-packings I reached my ultimate goal! Everything I want to bring fits in one (very large, stuffed to capacity) backpack!!! Of course this followed my mental debates of deciding between bring pants or presents for people I'm going to see, and calculating how much deet a person really does need. Tigz was there the whole time, clearly shedding all over my clothing to indicate he wants to come. So I also spent a bit of time wondering how long it would be before my parents noticed he was missing. I bet I have about a week!
I know I promised a few of you I would throw in a story about the last 36 hours or so, which included a goodbye dinner with far far far to much wine, Andrew my hero helping me dismantle my furniture and get into the Asia mindset with some Tiger beers, and of course the amazing goodbye dinner and some goodbye drinks. Unfortunatly, I still have to do a final run through of my packing, organize all the other stuff I brought home, and figure out where I can get cat food in Mae Sot.
So by the time most of you (the "bored at work crowd") are reading this, I will be on my way to Thailand. I have 3 flights and 22 hours of travel ahead of me! I'll be in contact on the other side!