Field Visit 3

left town of Debre Tarbor early Thursday morning, after waking to find the electricity was back just in time for me to leave. The drive back to Bahir Dar was once again beautiful. It was a market day so there were even more people than the drive there, something I hadn't thought would be possible. I spent most of the drive chatting with CARE's driver while taking high-speed photos from the window.
I arrived in Bahir Dar and was happy with what I saw. The third largest city in the country is known as "Ethiopia's Riviera". While I probably wouldn't go that far, there is no denying the city's charm. With palm trees lining wide streets, the areas slow pace seemed like a welcome improvement on Addis Ababa. And the presence of many restaurants, bars and fruit shops (as well as electricity) felt a welcome change from Debre Tarbor!

I went immediately to CARE's Bahir Dar office, where I was immediately whisked visit some of our field partners. We happened to arrive during a woman's group meeting, and although it wasn't our target demographic, I did a quick focus group discussion to find out a bit more about life in the city. The women were friendly and spunky, chiding me for not being married (so old at 26) and encouraging me to tell my friends and family in the U.S. about life in Ethiopia! Lunch time meant I could check into my hotel, and take a much longed for hot shower! After 4 days without hot water (which for me means not washing my hair) I was wishing I had taken up my bosses offer to get my hair braided! Feeling refreshed (and well nourished thanks to food and a machiato at the hotel restaurant) I continued with more partner visits in the afternoon.

Five o'clock finally arrived, which meant Paul arrived in Bahir Dar! Since the upcoming weekend was 3 days, he decided to meet me and spend it at some of the beautiful sites Bahir Dar has to offer. Tales (and pictures) from this trip will arrive in my next entry.

Friday meant one more day of FGD and interviews. I spent the morning with an amazing group of "youth" (which is defined here as 15-29) who run an anti-AIDS alliance in one of the poorest slums of the city. I met with founders and members of the group, all who were about my age. I was awed and inspired by their dedication to their community, even when it means they often risk stigma and discrimination themselves. Most are college students who managed to make it that far even though they all grew up in poverty, in the very same slums. While they pursued careers in IT, pharmaceuticals as well as other income activities, they spend their free time educating the community about HIV. Commercial Sex Work (CSW) is common in the area, and they run activities to reduce the stigma of buying and using condoms. They also create programs to allow people to talk about what they know about HIV, which allows for misconceptions to be acknowledged and corrected.

One of the things I was tasked with doing on this trip was some "positive case studies" of urban female youth. One girl in the group was a founder and clearly a great leader. I took her aside after the group and asked if she minded if I told her life story. She agreed, and began to tell me how her mother highhandedly raised 5 daughters in the same slum we were currently sitting. I won't tell her whole story here, but at one point she broke down into tears, and I felt horrible for asking her to share such an upsetting tale. But at the end she thanked me, because she is happy more people will know of her mother's strength and dedication. Currently she is in college, dating a boy who cares and respects her, and is "very grateful and happy" with her life. I was honored to be able to hear her story.

The day winded down with visits to a few more neighborhood groups. The visits were a great learning experience but the trip was amazingly draining! I met Paul for another amazing fruit juice, exhausted but excited for our 3 day weekend trip!

Field Visit 2

I am in the midst of a field visit, as I think I noted in my last post. We are in the town of, well to be honest I was told the name of the town once and I don’t remember it. All I know is for the first time in my life I am somewhere that isn’t listed in a lonely planet! I get looks walking down the street from more than just the little kids. This is the only tiem outside of 2 weeks spent in Burma that I get consistant expressions of surprise from the locals!
It’s a pretty town that is growing rapidly. Like most of Ethiopia, rural to urban migration is a major trend, and this town is seen as a jumping off point for further migration. Which actually fits in very nicely with the work I am doing. While my co-workers are here for a training I was brought along to speak to some of the local NGOs/CBOs that are based here, and Bahir Dar, a larger city I will be visiting tomorrow. While my program will be focusing on urban female youth (or UFY in this industry that LOVES acronymns) I belive it is impossible to look at the urban without thinking about the rural, since the majority of the poor urban population are migrants. So it was time to find out more.
One sub-group that I personally pushed for the program to target is trafficked girls. Trafficking is an issue I first got interested in while I was in South East Asia, where the problem is extremely prevelant. While it is not a common here, and it takes on different forms, it is still a major issue that seriously harms young women. So we arranged for me to visit Chad-et, a local NGO that provides services to prevent trafficking. The organization looks for girls that are vulnerable for trafficking and prevents it by offering education and alternative incomes. Additionally, they provide a safe-house for up to 32 girls who they directly stop from falling into the hands of traffickers.
There were no girls when I visited. Being the end of the rainy season meant most people were busy at home. After Christmas, I was told, was when trafficking tends to be highest, and the shelter is often full. Personally I was very impressed by Chalet’s services. It seems their projects do a great job at targeting girl’s individual needs and vulnerabilities. I hope I have the chance to work with them again in the future.
I spent the afternoon leaving town, checking out a women’s group CARE’s South Gondar office runs. The group meets for a week for training and discussion in life skills and empowerment. The women were kind enough to allow me to interrupt their session to speak to them and arrange a focus group study with a few of them. I had only been given about 20 minutes warning that a focus group could be arranged, so the entire thing was pretty improprtu. Overall, I was proud of my own ability to think on my feet and create questions and discussion that were engaging and informative. The information will be useful for future programming.

I’m struck by the differences in rural and urban poverty. While both are severe here, they seem to be very different. Seeing malnourished children (or adults) is less common, though not un heard of, in Addis. Here is seems more common. On the other hand, there is no begging here. I’ve only had one person say “give me money” in the past 3 days, something that usually happens at least half a dozen times on any given walk through Addis. Additionally, I can’t help thinking that people look happier here. Perhaps it is just that here I am viewing people walking to and from the town, likely selling goods, but I also think it may have to do with being near family and friends. When people migrate to urban areas they are also alone. Unlike someone as lucky as me, blessed with skype and email and facebook, as well as a network of friends and friends of friends throughout the world, youth often arrive knowing no one and being unable to reach those they left behind. A study I recently read found almost 60% of migrant girls report having NO friends! For some reason, of all the things I’ve read that might have been the saddest. And I think I may have written about it before, but it feels striking again here, as the poverty people are in is more communal. At the same time, I know there are horrible things I don’t see. Child marriage is still very common here. 2 of the 7 girls I spoke to yesterday (the oldest of whom was 27) reported being married by age 10. 5 had had children before the age of 20! These are some of the things youth are trying to escape by running to the cities. But comparing poverty seems like a fruitless exercise anyway. Best to once again be grateful for the things in my life, and continue working to bring people out of poverty here.

Field Visit 1

I am going to be in the field with CARE for the week. I just arrived in South Ghodnar, an area North of Addis Ababa, where CARE has a field office. It took about 12 hours by car (4x4) to get here, and although the trip was long with no break for about 8 hours between breakfast and lunch, it was beautiful. Every time I started to feel cranky about the fact that I was stuck in the middle seat I would take a look outside and notice people walking down the road with no shoes on. It shut my brain up fast! There are people everywhere, it seems, in Ethiopia. Only 45 minutes out of the city, the area becomes very rural, and we passed mud huts with no electricity. The flow of people, however, didn't seize. People herding cows and sheep. People carrying goods to/from markets. People (mostly children) selling produce and crafts. If there was any question about this country's high population and fertility rates (there wasn't), this trip erased it for me!

The scenery was beautiful. This "great" rainy season has been beneficial to the rural area, even if it means Paul and I have to swim the road our house is on! Everything is green and lush, and besides for the hail storm that we drove through, sunny. We passed three beautiful waterfalls as well as drove over the blue nile.

I will be here till Wednesday, when I will be going to the city of Bahir Dar for a few days. I will surely have more to tell soon. Additionally, I plan to have pictures and will find a way to post them to my blog soon.

Additionally, I know there has been a request for pictures of Puddles, I have them and will post those soon too!

Jennifer in New York

Just because my own work and studies tends to take me to the developing world doesn't mean I am not aware of the serious economic and social issues that individuals in the U.S. face every day. In fact, my first introduction to public health was working with Harlem RBI. U.S. urban public schools often have upwards of 40 children in one class with one teacher! New supplies are limited, buildings are often old and unsafe, playgrounds non-existent and teachers face the additional challenges of working with students who often have stresses at home. With that in mind I commend my amazing sister Jennifer Gold and all the great work she does for students facing the serious challenges and disadvantages of urban public schools in the U.S.
For those of you that don't know, Jen just finished an amazing stint working at a Langston Hughes Academy in New Orleans, the first Charter elementary school to open after Katrina! She is back in NY now, but her dedication to urban students hasn't waned.
This she is going to be participating in NYCARES Day 2010, working to revitalizing public schools in NY. I've copied her email below all about it, but I have to say its a great cause. Besides the work she and her team will be doing that day, the money she and her group are raising are going to the Nicole Schiffman Foundation, a great foundation, in honor of a wonderful girl the world lost far too soon.
Here is more information on NY Cares day, as well as a link to donate to this wonderful cause.
NY Cares Day is a day of service to revitalize public schools in all 5 boroughs. Along with 7,000 other volunteers, we will be painting hundreds of colorful murals, adding bright new line games to playgrounds, organizing school libraries, planting flowers, and more to create inspiring learning environments.
Like a walkathon, we are asking for your support by making a donation to New York Cares in honor of our service.
Every dollar donated to New York Cares amounts to $6 in service to the community. By raising $100 dollars, we can help:
· Provide 10 low-income students with one-on-one SAT tutoring for one year
· Prepare and serve 1,800 meals to the hungry and homebound.
· Grant books and supplies to 15 children in an Early Morning Reading program
· Buy children art supplies for a semester-long Art Explores programs
· Give 12 adult immigrants study materials to prepare for the U.S. Citizenship exam.
Donations are greatly appreciated and can be made by following the link below:
http://www.newyorkcaresday.org/nicoleschiffmanfoundation

Thanks for your generosity!

Happy New Year ^2

I wrote this post last Wednesday, the 8th, but this is the first time I seem to be able to upload it. I am not going to waste any more rare internet time editing it but know 2 important updates. Paul and I found a house and it looks like we may keep Puddles (see below).

I neglected a very important "number" in my last post!
Number of NEW YEARS I have this week: 2.

Yep- today marks the beginning of Rosh Hasana, the Jewish New Year
(Shanah Tova!). And Saturday, Sept. 11 is the Ethiopian New Year, bringing
in the year 2003! Ethiopians follow and Orthodox Christian calender, and
are 7 years behind and have 13 months.
Thursday, Friday or Saturday (depending a bit on lunar views) will also be
Eid, the end of the Muslim holiday of Ramadan! All this makes for a 4 day
weekend, plus lots of goats and ch
If that wasn't exciting enough......I've (temporarily) rescued and adopted a
puppy. I found her on the street a few days ago and she was in the same
place the following days. She is very young (I'm guessing just a few
months) and she kept running into the street and was hiding under a car.
Ethiopians treat dogs much better than some other countries I've been to,
but life on the street is still not easy for a puppy here (nor a person, as
I've written about before, and surely will again). Concerned, I got the
number of a vet, who came right over. He told me it was "going to cost me"
to get all the shots for her, the total was about U.S. $40! Having done it,
we discussed next steps, and the Dr. recommended getting her to a safer
place, because even with all the shots she is tiny, underfed and at risk of
other dogs, mean kids and cars. So I took her home!

I promised Paul I wouldn't get attached because I don't think I can keep
her, but I've broken that promise about a million times! She now runs out
to the gate to greet me, and waits at the door in the morning. She still
seems amazed when I bring her food twice a day! I am in the process of
finding her a home, hopefully someone that will let me come play with her
all the time!

CARE has some big arrivals today: The CEO of the National program, Helene
Gayle as well as Jenna Bush, Christy Turlington and 2 congress people (who I
have yet to hear the names of)! I won't get to be meeting anyone but Helene
Gayle (which is pretty awesome in its own right- google her!) but its
exciting to know that such people, who are influential in policy and
advocacy, are coming here to see our work.

And of course, matching all that, Paul arrives tonight as well! :)

Happy New Year (x2) everyone!!!!

AA by the Numbers

I wrote the last post a few days ago and I still have a few more minutes to kill of free internet so here are some fast facts about my life in Addis.

# of days here:16
# of times I've been caught in the rain: 1
# of times the currency conversion has changed:1. In my favor, and by 17%. Things are even cheaper than before, though this will probably be very bad for the economy.
# of marriage proposals I've received walking down the street: too many to count
# of days till Paul gets here: 3, hopefully putting a stop to the street side proposals and cat calls
# of international NGOs I pass on the way to work at my International NGO: at least 10
# of children adopted: zero (so far)
# of puppies adopted:zero, though I came real close today
# of kilometers I ran this morning: 5. The gyms are filled with runners, many who must by Olympians! It gets me competitive!
# of times I've gotten lost: Just twice. I am not sure if this means I have a great sense of direction, or I just haven't been exploring enough
# of cups of coffee I now drink a day. At least one, usually 2, during the week! I've never been a coffee drinking, and several of you have stayed over my apt. complaining about my lack of coffee. But the coffee here is so good (and so strong) that I just can't turn it down. I am trying my best to not drink it in the morning, to avoid an addiction. I've cracked several times, and am also fearful I've developed a 2:30 addiction
# of field visits: 0, but a few are in the works
# of times I've moved :1, and another one is is store when Paul gets here
# of times I've gotten belly sick :0, the DC burgers clearly prepared my stomach!

There are surely more numbers but thats it for now.

Working in AA

People keep asking me what exactly I am doing in Ethiopia. Well besides for dodging street children, getting my butt kicked by insane Ethiopian trainers at the gym, eating lots of yummy stews scooped with injerna, avoiding the daily rains and getting frustrated with finicky internet, I am also interning with CARE Ethiopia's Resource Poor Urban Female Youth Program Design Team. Now for those of you that didn't go to Emory (CARE is based in ATL and speakers from the organization showed up everywhere) CARE is one of the oldest NGOs in the U.S. Originally created after World War 2 "Cooperative for American Remittances to Europe" the organization now works throughout the world. In Ethiopia CARE focuses on women's issues including health, economic empowerment, rights and livelihoods. Currently CARE is redesigning their programs to become more far reaching and long lasting, that's where I come in.
As part of the program design team I am researching what projects currently exist and where the gaps are. I am also engaged in "partner mapping" trying to find information on all the organizations based in Ethiopia who we may be able to partner with. This is no easy task, as most don't have websites or reliable contact information, and I've found myself on the phone or visiting in person with resources. I am also going to be checking out many of our sites first hand, in order to put together some Concept Notes. I am really looking forward to getting to "the field". My first stop will probably be right here in Addis, where I will leave the expat enclave of the Bole neighborhood to venture to some of the slums near Mercato (and elsewhere) where CARE does most of its work here. I will be travelling with the Urban HIV program. Additionally, I was just informed that in a few weeks a team of us will be traveling to South Ghondar (a rural area up North) and Bahir Dar, a city by one of the large Lakes, also in the North, to see some of the adolescent programs occurring there. I am really looking forward to these trips.
I can already say I've learned a great deal about working with an International Organization overseas, though I don't think I've been here long enough to truly take in all I've absorbed. I am off to meet some friends for dinner (Korean food!) but look forward to some future updates real soon .