2 Causes

Many of you have asked how you can help the people of Ethiopia. Those who haven’t asked, well I am sure you were wondering and haven’t gotten around to it yet. Even if you are not curious, please read on, this entry is full of important stuff.

I visited the Hamlin Fistula Hospital today. Most of you who have ever spent time with me know what a fistula is, but in case you don’t here is a brief explanation. Here in Ethiopia, and in much of the developing world, women often do not have access to, or can’t afford, to give birth with a doctor or trained health worker. This can result in a variety of horrible effects, including death due to hemorrhaging or infection. It can also lead to prolonged birth, lasting for days, and sometimes up to a week. The baby almost always dies and while the labor continues the womb pushes on the bladder or bowels, and can often cause tearing. This hole is known as a fistula, and it causes incontinence, with the woman unable to control her urine or feces. If this weren’t bad enough it is accompanied by a horrible spell, which often leads to women being shunned by their families and communities, forced to live in isolation in the edges of villages. Women often develop physical disabilities due to lack of movement or drop foot. This is where the Fistula hospital comes in. A simple surgery is all that is needed to fix the fistula, but it is something most women in Ethiopia can’t afford. The hospital offers it for free, allowing women to stay for free while they receive the surgery and recover, and even longer if they need more than one surgery. All they ask is that they tell others about the hospital, and they give birth to any further children there, with a trained doctor.

The place is amazing. I’ve heard about it: in school, from Nicholas Kristoff and Oprah (who is a major donor) and it was amazing to see in person. Its set on quite land filled with flowers, with different buildings housing pre-op, surgery, recovery, maternity as well as a school, a physical therapy center and a management of incontinence center (Oprah’s building). While beautiful, the smell is overwhelming and it is still stuck in my nasal memory. While the place is well funded, there are so many women in need of the surgery they are always in need of more. If you are interested in donating, or learning more, check out the website or the website for the fistula foundation which contributes to the hospital here: http://www.hamlinfistula.org.au/ as well as several other equally amazing, but less known ones. http://www.fistulafoundation.org/ . Even better, the Gold’s are sending me a package soon, to contain a dog crate and candy for a starving Canadian-American couple- but it can be filled with more. If you would like to send something to help the women out you can email me and I can give you the address in the U.S. to send it to. What is most in need is baby clothing, as most people don’t realize there is a birthing center. All women’s clothing, including stockings, would be welcome. If, just by chance, there are any super knitters out there, the women knit, so if you have any leftover “stash” please send that along. And I think a baby hat or sweater could be a great activity for a national knitting convention!

Wait, there is more. As I’ve mentioned before, one of the big projects I am working on here is research on the domestic workers. They are an extremely vulnerable and isolated group, often getting paid nothing or next to nothing (i.e. just about slaves) and are usually from rural areas and know no one in Addis. I’ve held several focus group discussions at some night schools that target domestic workers, and the findings have thus far been heartbreaking. Without going into to much detail, several have faced attempted rape by employers, sons of employers or friends of employers. They have to keep working for these people, as they have nowhere else to go. Two of the participants in my group last night were TWELVE! I just kept thinking when I was 12 my biggest concerns were the Kate Spade backpack I wanted and to not wanting to go to Hebrew school anymore, and here were these girls, forced to work in strangers homes for little or no money! Most came to Addis to escape early marriage, or because they were told they could continue school! Once they arrive they find they must work, for relatives or through brokers. And the girls I’ve spoken to may be considered “lucky” because their employers let them attend night school. Many other employers don’t. A coworker and myself have made this cause a top priority, though we aren’t sure just what to do yet. If you have any ideas please send them along. For the time being, there is a discussion of teaming with some local women’s shelters, to provide a safe space for these women (or in many cases girls) who have nowhere else to go. If you do send me women’s clothes, and the shelter, even our own, or others, is happening, I may donate some to that. If you have a preference, please indicate it. And please look forward to a further call for donations to this cause once we figure out exactly what we will be doing (around the holidays, perhaps).

I know it is rude and a bit pushy but so little goes so far here. Its something that we all forget (I do it at home, and even here), caught up in the day to day stresses of life. Its incredible that used clothing or a few dollars could have such value here. Please help me add to that value.

Eating in Ethiopia

When I say "Ethiopia" and "food" to most people I tend to get one of two responses. "I'm so jealous" or something akin to "there's food in Ethiopia?". The latter is of course wit inspired by the major famines people associate (somewhat accurately) with much of the country's recent history, made even more famous by South Park's Ethernopian, Starvin Marvin. Fortunately for those living in food scarce resources, this has been a "great rainy season" (maybe not to my shoes) and the countryside is remarkably green and lush!

The jealousy over the amazing food I am eating is a bit more accurate Ethiopian food really is unique and delicious! For those who have never had the pleasure of trying it, I recommend you do so already. If you are in any major city, odds are there is at least one restaurant. And if you aren't in a major city, well go to one (I recommend NY or DC).

The staple of any Ethiopian meal in injera a spongy pancake bread that is almost impossible to describe in words. Injera is part of every Ethiopian meal, and many Ethiopians I have met swear they can't eat any food (including pasta) without it. Injera is used to scoop up wot, the stew style foods of Ethiopia. Wots can consist of lentils, chickpeas, spinach, lamb, beef, chicken, etc. Traditionally, several people sit over a large plate of injera and wot, and use there hands to scoop up the food. This allows me to try many different dishes, a process made easier since I am no longer veggie (and I am very much no longer veggie, to Paul's delight). I've gotten better at not ending a meal covered in wat, and I've learned the name of some of my favorite foods. There is also great fresh fruit and fruit shakes are a favorite treat here. An avocado and papaya shake, so think you need to consume it with a spoon, is a great way to start a day!


Why Injera and wot is good enough I could live on it, its not the only option, by any stretch! Addis is an extremely international city, and with that comes international cuisine. By far the most common is Italian food. The Italians occupied Ethiopia in the 1930s and 40s, and though they were triumphantly expelled, several great influences lived on. There is terrific Italian food here, and as a New Yorker I don't say that lightly. There is even Pizza that I will (happily) eat! If pizza and linguine and brushetta wasn't enough, there are several Chinese restaurants around town. There is also Korean, Tex-Mex (better than I expected, though in no way rivaling the nacho standards set by both Darcy and Danny) and even a Thai place! We tried the Thai place and were pleasantly surprised, a great sign since Paul and I are serious Thai food snobs!

Ok, now it is time to eat lunch!

Doing good?

My sister Jen, an amazing girl, recently completed a one year Americorps contract, at an elementary school in New Orleans. Back home on Long Island, she is faced with the current slim job pickings in NYC. Recently she emailed me, asking what I would think about her "selling her soul to the man at an evil corporate job" sine there are very few non-profit jobs where she would have the opportunity to "do good". I promptly wrote her back, telling her, that in my opinion, what you do should in no way define who you are. We both have plenty of friends and family in the private sector who are "good people", this has to do with their values, not where they work. I am lucky enough to have been able to work in the field of my choice thanks in part to support from my father, who works in business. (Thanks Dad!)

This got me thinking though, what does it mean to "do good". Its a question I am faced with on a daily basis here. As a white person, it is assumed I am rich (and even though I am surviving on a small grant here, compared to most Ethiopians, I am). This means, as I have mentioned before, the appearance of beggars on almost every walk outside. How one deals with beggars seems to be a personal choice. Some people I know give small change when they have it, knowing that a 1/2 bihr (with 16 bihr=1 dollar) has far more worth to a beggar than to them self. Paul never gives them anything. He believes that this encourages further begging, and dissuades people from seeking other employment. I am more a believer in giving food, feeling that it can't be misused. But I don't give to anyone. As heartbreaking as the kids in Addis are, I don't like to encourage them running up to ferenji in packs, demanding "one bihr". So I tend to give to kids on their own, or more often to mothers with small children. They seem to me the most destitute. Paul and I discuss this a great deal as we walk the streets of Addis. His way allows him never having to make a decision in who is "most in need" but it doesn't leave him feeling "good". Mine does, but usually not for long. Even if I give a kilo of bananas away, half a block later I am likely to run in to a mother and child sleeping on the street, with nothing left to give them. And have I done good? If I feel good doing it, does it still count as "doing good"?

So what is good? I great thing about Addis is the inexpensive (by American standards) spa services, and I recently indulged in a 1 hour Swedish massage that cost me 10 dollars U.S. ! I walked out feeling great, but fell asleep thinking of the implications of those 10 dollars. It seemed to me that I was supporting the local economy, by paying the salary of at least one person working at the spa. But who knows how that dollar could have been better spent. Is it ok because I work at a nonprofit, but it wouldn't be if I worked for a private sector company here? Is it over indulgent to pay for a massage here, when others have so little? Or is it helpful to support local industry?

This brings me back to my sister and family. I believe that Jen and I were raised with great values (thanks to the aforementioned dad and an equally amazing mom), even though we were exposed to some less than stellar ones on a daily basis during our upbringing on Long Island. And I think that is how you become "good" It has nothing to do with your profession or where you work. There are plenty of snobby NGO workers here, and plenty of kind people working in the private sector in the U.S. It has to do with who you are. How you treat others and what you value. Do you drive a nice car because you like having a nice car? Or because you think that car makes you a better person than others? We like nice things in the Gold family (especially spa massages) but we know that those nice things are just things, at that those things don't define us. I try to take the values I grew up with with me here. The belief in the importance of giving, but also in making yourself happy. And that, at least to me, may be the best way to "do good"

Bahir Dar 2- The Vacation

After a week of field work, which I've already mentioned was extremely draining, Friday night I fell asleep by 8, surrounded by mosquito net, covered in deet. Addis is so elevated and cool that there is little need for mosquito protection, but Bahir Dar, its low altitude and lakeside location, demands malaria prophylaxis, mosquito nets, and lots and lots of deet. But anyone who has ever traveled with me in a tropical environment knows that even if I bathe in deet I still wake up with numerous bites! This time was no exception, so I am happy I had remembered to start my doxy regime, a malaria prophylaxis. Of course Doxy makes you sensitive to the sun. And anyone who has ever met me (or Paul) knows our skins aren't exactly tough in the sun to begin with. Therefore we caused quite a sight at breakfast Saturday morning, the odd ferenji covering ourselves in SPF 50 and deet! Feeling protected we were ready to start our day.

Bahir Dar, as I've mentioned, is located around Lake Taneh the third largest lake in Africa. It is also the source of the Blue Nile! We spent Saturday visiting the falls in a village about an hour away from Bahir Dar. Instead of springing the 100 bihr to rent a car to take us there Paul decided I needed the "African bus experience". 5 minutes later, as we sat in the last row of what was already proving to be a bumpy bus ride, after already been asked for money by no less than 6 people Paul couldn't remember why this experience was so needed! While we were shouted at (and in one case grabbed at) at every village we stopped in, we eventually made it to the falls, which proved to be worth the long journey. The hike was well worth the trip and sore backside. Being the end of the rainy season the falls were running at full force. The foliage was green and clean, and after a week of being shuttled from one NGO to another it felt great to be outside and moving around.Plus the money saved on the journey allowed me to purchase a scarf! I've posted pictures of our hike on facebook, and will try to find a way to get them here as well.

Saturday we visited the island monasteries that dot the lake outside the city. Ethiopian is about 60% Eastern Orthodox Christian, and the places of prayer are very different than churches I've seen in the west. The monasteries dated from the 13th-16th century, and were remarkably well preserved. Many housed books from the same period, in perfect condition thanks to the fact they were printed on goatskin. Painted stories line the walls in vibrant colors. One monastery was male only, but I ended up getting to visit the new "woman's museum" with a well informed tour guide. Most of the paintings there featured old testament stories, and we ended up discussing EOC similarities with Judaism, or which there are many! Paul discovered a menorah at the same monastery, proving I've had some influence on him.

Our boat drive took us back to the city in time to escape a torrential downpour. While the rainy season was coming to a close, it seemed the weather wanted a grand finale, and we were treated to some of the most amazing storms I've ever seen in my life! The evening before we witnessed what appeared to be 2 converging thunderstorms, which was a delight to see, until we realized that the rain was seeping in through the balcony window onto our floor! Apparently our very nice guest house room was no competition for Africa's rain! The storm Sunday was less severe and we were able to make it back to a cafe in time for lunch and Meskel!

Meskel is an Ethiopian Greek Orthodox holiday commemorating the finding of the true cross here. It is celebrated with large cross-topped bonfires, parades, singing, dancing and fireworks. The party lasted all night. I slept soundly thought it, my ability to sleep through almost anything is a great blessing in the developing world. Paul, not blessed in this regard, reported that there was singing and firecrackers till about 5 am!

We returned to Addis the next morning, the 45 minute Ethiopian Airs flight a great improvement over the nine hour car ride I had taken there. We were greeted by a very cheerful and hyper puddles puppy! I apologize for the length of this entry, I blame it on my failure to blog the journey for over a week. I promise more concise entries soon.

As I haven't found any other way to post pictures (besides facebook) here are a few linked http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/SouthGondarFieldVisitAndBahirDar?authkey=Gv1sRgCPmoq-6WjsiZHw# I am still working on it.....