Goodbye Mae Sot, Hello Katmandu!

My promised and much thought about "exit blog" was put off by finishing touches to my report, goodbye meals and festivities and general "leaving activities". So I find myself in Nepal, first reflecting, in print at least, about my experience in Thailand. I know people are wanting to hear about THIS part of the trip, but patience dear readers, that part will come soon enough :)

Leaving Mae Sot, and Thailand, was a mixed bag this time around. I really enjoyed my time in Mae Sot, but have realized that three months was not enough time to really get to know the place. It felt that once I got my footing, figured out where I wanted to take the report, it was almost time for me to leave! I certainly learned a great deal, and am very proud of the final outcome of the report. It was sad saying goodbye to friends and co-workers, and of course, Thailand! That being said, I have no doubt I will be back in Thailand again, hopefully soon! I will have pictures of my last days in Mae Sot posted sometime soon. Also coming soon, stories from Nepal...............

My Report is Done!

3 months of work are complete!   I have many reflections on the work I've done and time I've spent here, that I will happily write about tomorrow, when I am NOT WORKING!  I just wanted to share this exciting news with the world  :)   

Mostly Pictures

With less than 2 weeks left to my stint in Mae Sot, it has become "crunch time" for my report.  That being said, this much overdue post will be brief (and mostly pictures).

First of all, Paul's visit (which was already documented, but has disappeared from this blog was great!  We were lucky enough to spend a few days in Bangkok, where we both wandered around, slightly alarmed by tall buildings and vast amounts of electricity.  Whoever thought it was a good idea to let 2 poor non-profit workers loose on the "executive lounge" of a 5 star hotel didn't realize how much free food and drinks it was possible for 2 people to consume!   He also got to see my current home town of Mae Sot, and have a glimpse of the work I am doing here.  In Chiang Mai we caught up with some old friends and co-workers. See pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/NewAlbum63009309PM#

I've been back for over 2 weeks now, and its been quite busy!  I realized my tourist visa was about to expire, and was forced to do the Thai ex-pat tradition of the Burma visa run.  Fortunately, I live less than 5 minutes from the Burma border, so this whole process took minimal time.  It is something to cross a short bridge and suddenly be in a whole different world.  The Burmese government only lets visitors walk two kilometers into the town, so there is not much to see.  It is a shock to compare the differences between Mae Sot, and Myrawadee, the parrallel Burmese town.  While Mae Sot has a good deal of poverty, there were countless more people begging for food and money, including children and the elderly.   The clean paved roads I usually take for granted in Mae Sot were suddenly missing, and I found my feet and the back of my legs covered with mud.    Crossing the bridge one can clearly see people floating back and forth on tires, risking their safety for a chance to get into Thailand, even just for a short period of time.

A few days later I visited Mae La refugee Camp.  Only an hour and a half away, it was another world.  Technically we weren't supposed to be there, so we only had an hour in the camp before being asked to leave.   As soon as we walked in we were surrounded by small children, in various stages of dress, running to greet us.  After being given some candy and food (we were happy to honor this "farang requirement") they joined us in exploring the camp.  Oddest for me was seeing the cultural orientation center, with many of the forms and data I used to process at my old job at HIAS!   Interesting to see the other side, and once again put names and faces with the numbers I used to see.   

Its odd, the camp has been here for over 2 decades, and in many ways it seemed more like a large (over 50,000 people) village.  Surrounded by beautiful green mountains and cliffs, it was an odd contrast when considering what people had to go through to get there, and what the actual standards of living were like.

Much in need of a break, myself and 2 friends spent last Saturday in Sukathai, the old capital of SIAM.  For the first time since I've been in Thailand I've had a full day of sun!  I forgot how hot in can get in this country!  It was great, renting bikes and exploring the large old ruins.   Breathing in fresh air and sunshine! While we had to suffer "a ride of death" to get back to Mae Sot we managed to make it back in one day and one piece!!   

I know I owe many of you emails and fb messages, I WILL get back to you ASAP, things have just been a bit insane!

Pictures from Pauls visit are here:  http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/NewAlbum63009309PM#

All the rest of this trip can be found here:   http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/BorderCrossingMaeLaRefugeeCampSukathaiAndBuddhistLentParade?pli=1&gsessionid=QK4qjKd6yGo0PiX8_hsthw#

Enjoy and longer post soon!

Early One Morning, The Sun was Shining

I’m in Bangkok, just off the night bus from Mae Sot.   The 8-hour ride took me a world away.   I bordered the bus at 9pm, at what could have been 3 am, for how dark and quite it was on Mae Sot’s streets.   I realized, as the bus quickly spread out of the city, it was my first time in an enclosed car since arriving in Mae Sot, and how odd it was to move past all the familiar sights quickly and silently.   Leaving Mae Sot involves going through not one but four legal checkpoints, where Thai officers check for people illegally trying to enter Thailand from Burma.    The first time the officers got on I pulled out my passport, I wasn’t even looked at, let alone my documents.  I watched as others were asked to show multiple ids, and a few brave souls, dressed in traditional Karen clothing were pulled off the bus to be questioned, but later allowed back on.  By the time we made it to the fourth checkpoint I left my headphones on, and watched the same process again.   No one seemed to mind as they were tested on their Thai language, and had all their documents scrutinized.  

            After the 4^th checkpoint it was lights out, and I managed to sleep most of the ride down.  I awoke with a start to more noise and light then I have heard in a month!  We were in Bangkok, in the loud crowded bus station, busy and noisy at 5:30 a.m.!   I had been warned that a trip to Bangkok from Mae Sot is a bit disconcerting, as there are more people, more cars, more buildings, more EVERYTHING.  Its true, and it was a certainly a rude awakening.   At the same time, for this New York girl, there was something comforting about the early morning greeting.   I don’t love Bangkok, I’ve spent a good deal of time here but its always to meet someone, or as a cross point to somewhere else.  It’s the same this time, though there was something comforting as I sped down the highway in a metered cab, observing that the bus stop I arrived in was probably larger than all of Mae Sot.

            I find myself now at a lovely hotel (Thanks Dad!), which feels a universe away from Mae Sot.   I see the sun rising behind Bangkok’s numerous skyscrapers, which is exciting coming from all the rain. I’m impatiently wait the next 12 or so hours till Paul arrives in Thailand and am off to find a much needed Western breakfast   

Shelter from the Storm......

Is something that's really not possible here in Mae Sot.  I've been in Thailand, and other areas of SE Asia during the rainy season before, but I've never seen anything like this.  Nor have other "long-timers" of Mae Sot, people who have been here for years.  Apparently Burma is experiencing severe monsoons, which have illegally crossed the border into Mae Sot.

I spent a few days thinking I could avoid the rain.  This had me one day spending an entire afternoon in Hazel Cafe, Mae Sot's version of Starbucks, over-air conditioned, filled with wi-fi and over-priced coffee drinks.   I didn't mind, but realized this couldn't become a daily habit.  The next day I left work late only to find myself in the middle of a down-pour.  Luckily, my friend Matt happened to arrive and provided "shelter from the storm" at his home for about 2 hours, before we both realized the rain wasn't going to stop.  From that point on, I've come to embrace the fact that if I need to go somewhere, I'm going to end up soaked (bad move bringing all the white shirts and fisherman pants, but great call on packing the heavy duty rain coat!)

Sunday, myself and a bunch of farang NGO workers decided we should embrace the weather and cycle out of the city.  While Mae Sot is a great town, there really isn't that much to DO.  It has an active enough nightlife (ok, 3 bars, but at U.S. $1.50 for a litre of beer, no one is complaining) but thats about it.     So a trip to "The Buddha's Footprint" was in store.   

"Just a 20 kilometer trip" to the top of a hill, where apparently a clear footprint, now plated in gold paint, can be found above a Budhist temple.   The ride provided a beautiful tour of the area surrounding Mae Sot, rice fields, hills, and the fast moving river separating Thailand from Burma.  Of course every time someone took a raincoat off the rains started to pour, but we had all grown to accept the fact we would be soaked, and cycled through the rain.  What I wasn't prepared for was the significantly uphill ride we had ahead of us.  As Mae Sot is basically a flat valley, most people, including myself, don't have gears, or speeds, on their bikes.   The first few hills, until I learned to embrace momentum,were certainly a challenge.

Our group did suffer one near disaster, as Jess's back tire went flat just as the road was beginning to go uphill.   Luckily, we had a good team effort, and we were quickly able to lock her bike to a nearby tree and Reed took her the rest of the way, as she sat side-saddle on the back of his bike.

We made it to the temple, exhausted and realizing none of us had been smart enough to bring much food!  It was only then that we learned that we still had a climb to the top.    Climbing 200 or so steps we made it to the top.  The actual foot print was a bit anti-climatic, but the trip was worth it for the view alone!  We were treated to a beautiful landscape and even a few fleeting moments of sunlight!   

The ride home proved, with the exception of many many shaky legs, and of course a few more downpours, to be relatively un-eventful.   All and all a lovely, if very exhausting day!

Pictures can be found here:   Still haven't figured out how to get them right onto the page, but hoping someone will show me in the next 2 weeks (ahem)...............

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/Jun62009?authkey=Gv1sRgCJHWl_v41-GJVg#

Happy One Year Anniversary to me!

This is more a procrastination than anything else!  But if you had told me a year ago, today, that in one year I'd be working on the other side of the world to help with others health, I would have thought you were crazy!  Ditto to riding my bike past elephants (yes there is now an elephant in Mae Sot), eating chicken knee (I DON'T want to talk about it) and just overall having a brand new, exciting adventure and learning experience!

Much thanks to all my family and friends who were there for me over this past year (plus)   Lots of Love to you all.

Peace, Love and good health, 

Emily   

Buckets of Rain......

This title is inspired by a number of things.   Most obviously, they play Bob Dylan EVERYWHERE here.  I, of course, am not complaining, and it certainly is much much better than the continuous loop of Jack Johnson I heard while traveling SE Asia last time around.  

Secondly, the rainy season does seem to have officially begun here.  Its offered a welcome cool down to the slightly stifling heat, though it is still pretty hot.  The only true downside is the fact that my computer accompanies me to work and about most days, so I found myself a bit at the mercy of the weather, as I would have no problem biking home, but my MacBook might.

"Buckets of Tears" felt more apt recently.   I began doing interviews last week, and had a rather heartbreaking day last Sunday.   I met with an HIV/AIDS support group, run in part by the amazing, local, Mae Tao Clinic.  The participants were kind enough to let me ask them some questions, and I was truly awed by the sense of hope and strength the interviewees possessed.   Most of them had migrated to Thailand for work, but as the disease developed they've found themselves to weak to work, and surviving on the support of organizations like the clinic and MSF.   Many had not seen their families in years, and were to scared to tell them about their illness, because of the attached stigma in Burma.  Of course the most heartbreaking were their children, some of whom were also HIV+, but all of whom had at least one parent that is being kept alive by donated medicine.    

Despite the sadness I felt, I was awed by the courage and optimism I witnessed.   One woman told me how happy she is to wake every morning, glad to see a new day.  Another, whose health has thankfully remained well so far, spoke about how lucky she felt to be able to inspire others who are HIV+ with her own health.  Before we left Eh Wah and I bought some snacks and candies for the children, and spent some time watching the role playing exercises the group was participating in.   The kids happily and politely accepted the candy we had, and ran around chasing inflated condom balloons, clearly over-joyed with the day.   We were a big hit, as several of our interviewees asked to take pictures with us before we left.

The day was certainly sad, and I went through a bit of an emotional withdrawal when I left.  I am working on detaching a bit, which seems like a useful skill for the line of work I am planning to be involved in.  For now I am just hoping I can do justice to the stories I heard, and make sure people's voices are heard.   

I know I've heard from many of you about my lack of blogging, I will try to be better!     Post comments, knowing people are reading is a motivation to write!

I haven't figured out how to post pictures to blogger just yet, but heres a link to Picassa, enjoy.......

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/ChiangMaiAndFirstDaysInMaeSot?authkey=Gv1sRgCJTGg56OvNzq1AE#

A glimpse of Mae Sot (and my own blessed life)

This is a vibrant, diverse city (town) that is hard to put into words. That's what cameras are for! Unfortunately, my computer and internet do not seem to agree, so while I struggle to upload some photos onto some internet format, I will do a bit to give you a glimpse to my first real week here.
As I've already written about, Mae Sot often feels more like Burma than it does Thailand! This has both positive and negative aspects. I will just cover the positives now; as I am sure Mae Sot's downsides will come out at a later date! I certainly feel fortunate to immerse myself in a culture so few outsiders get to see. "A culture" is not, in fact, a correct term, as the world that has formed here is a mixture of ethnicities in Culture. It creates a thrill every time I walk outside. And it offers the opportunity to see how these many groups that often seem unable to co-exist inside Burma have come together, in the market, in various NGOs and really, wherever one looks. The kindness of the people of Burma might actually rival the Thais. I have never met such generous optimistic people! I cannot go anywhere, whether it is my agencies office, the local health clinic (which deserves its own entry, after interviews that should happen this week) or the local orphan school without being offered cold water, some fruit or even a meal. People who often have almost nothing go out of the way to share the little they have. This was most notable and the orphan school I visited a few days ago. A friend of a friend asked if I would like to visit his friend's school, which serves 120 + students, grades 1-10, who are orphans from the Karen State in Burma. As it is summer session there is currently only one teacher, an American man, who teaches English lessons 2 hours a day. The students were unbelievable! The only toys I noticed during my 3-hour visit were one Lego set and a few picture books. Yet all the children were happily entertaining themselves, older children watching out for younger ones, and not one child fighting or crying! Having cared for American children in a variety of settings this was beyond shocking! Witnessing the class was even more so, as the children all sat silently as their teacher explained "ages". It was unclear how much was being absorbed in such a large setting, but it was clear each child truly valued each minute of education he/she was lucky enough to receive. I admit I've become a bit jaded in the 2 years since I last left Asia, but this moment took me back, and made me realize how lucky I am to have lived the life I have. Hopefully I will have the chance to help out in the school in some context soon.
The reason I haven't already committed completely is that my work has gone into full swing since I have last written. Having finally created a work plan and a decent outline, I have had the chance to begin the interview process. Yesterday myself and a co-worker/translator/former student and I conducted TEN interviews with migrant workers, some of whom are HIV positive. Once again, I was struck by the positive nature the men and women I interviewed possessed. Some had not seen their families for years, having left Burma to support them. Most of them were stuck in low paying, factory jobs, for which they had risked their lives leaving their home towns and everyone they knew and loved. And some faced the extra hurdle of the devastating HIV illness. Everyone we spoke to spoke of his or her desire for Burma's government to better serve its people's health needs! FYI- The World Health Organization ranked Burma's Health program 190 out of 191, only Sierra Leone's ranked lower! This time I was reminded how fortunate I was that when I faced my own health scare I was able to access the care I did! People seemed happy to be able to share their stories, and I am honored to have the opportunity to do something positive with them.

Some procastination

I now have my own place and a bicycle (and a helmet,of course) making me as legal a resident of Mae Sot as most of the other inhabitants of this crazy city. I am still not sure what to make of this place, there seems far to much to take in. It will have to be captured in a different post. For now, a bit about the work I've been doing.
I am really enjoying the work I am doing. Yes, its only been a day, but if nothing else, it seems like it will be a great learning experience. As I think I have mentioned before, I am going to be writing a report on incidences of HIV/AIDS on the Burma border, especially in regards to women. The aims of the report are to highlight how Burma's goverment, the SPDC, so severly restricts human rights and economic opportunities, that women are often forced to choose sex work as there best option to sustain a livelyhood. As the government spends less than 1% on all health services, most women have little to no knowledge of HIV or other sexually transmitted diseases. When finished, the report will be distributed to relevant departments of international organizations. Besides everything I'm learning, I am getting VERY excited about school. I see how much I've been missing research, especially on a topic I am so interested in! Also notably, as I've perused the online databases. Johns Hopkins School of Public Health shows up over and over again. So it looks like I will be in the right place come fall!
I am still waiting for the interviews that have been conducted to be translated in English. Although this should have already been done, the positive side of this delay is I will have the chance to add additional relevant questions.
I have more to write, but a lovely Burmese man just walked by and handed me two, fresh off the tree mangoes! They are tempting me, and eating them anywhere near my computer could be a fatal mistake!
I'll end this post on a rather somber note. I am not sure how much the recent re-imprisimonet of Nobel Peace Prize Laurette Daw Aung San Suu Kyi has been covered in the media outside of Asia, but please take a few minutes to read about whats going on, and sign a petition. Needless to say, this has been the topic of most major talk here, and Yee and I spent some time yesterday drafting a press release. I will be sure to dedicate another post to explaining the signifigance of the Burmese goverment's latest ploy.
See here: http://burmapoint.com/index.php
or see, even CNN is covering it!
http://edition.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/asiapcf/05/14/myanmar.suukyi/index.html

Min Gala Ba From Mae Sot (aka little Burma)

Somehow I ended up with a "mini-vaca" in Chiang Mai, and, of course, I had no reason to complain.  I spent my extra days in Chiang Mai filling up on all my favorite Northern Thai delicacies, visiting with old friends and indulging in some of the western opportunities that Chiang Mai has to offer.  Most importantly these include yoga classes (very much needed) and movies (the sub-par Wolverine).  After this lovely little blast from the past it was finally time to head South West towards Mae Sot.

Myself, Yee, plus two of her friends piled into a "salon car" to make the journey towards Mae Sot.   Besides the fact that I found myself in a car filled with Canadians, which led to a "Canada's greatest one hit wonders play list" it was a beautiful journey.  The route towards Mae Sot is quite beautiful, through rural Thailand and finally through the winding roads of the lush mountains that form the natural borders between Thailand and Burma.  

Mae Sot, while less than five hours from Chiang Mai, feels a world apart.   At least half the population is Burmese, a fact evident by just a few glances through the main market.  Longyi clad people abound, as do women in Muslim head garbs,  Women's faces dotted with the milky white makeup many Burmese seem to favor.  Stalls offer packets of Burmese tea and common Burmese treats, and most of the conversations overheard are in Burmese.   Besides a feast for the eyes, the market also offers a feast for every taste bud.   All of my favorite Burmese foods are available.  More notable however, is the meat choices.  Even more than Thais, Burmese waste NO parts of an animal, and everything from pig snout to ox-tails and everything in-between is available.   While I tend to be relatively "flexaterian" when it comes to food when traveling, I was certainly happy to have the vegetarian excuse for time being!

I started work today.  The office visit began with even more warm meetings from some more former students who seemed even happier to see me!   And of course I was happy to see them, and hear about updates in their lives, most notably one recent marriage!  I am excited to get started on this report, which I should probably get back to now.  More dispatches from the border to come.......

Some updates and fast facts

I should be writing a whole entry, but so much seems to have happened in the past few days, and as I have yet to bunk down in one place, I think I will structure this entry as updates from Chiang Mai and some new fun facts about my life here so far! Read on!

Changes from my last time in Chiang Mai:
Khao Soy Consumption: Khao Soy, a northern Thailand speciality, might be one of my favorite foods in the world! I've been dreaming about it for over two years and talking about it rather regularly since I learned I would be back in Thailand. So imagine my surprise, when having my first (DELICIOUS, INDESCRIBABLE) bowl of Khao Soy this afternoon, I could not even finish it! I do plan on continuing to try.
Less surprising was the fact that I can no longer consume Sang Son the way I used to. This is probably a good thing for both my body and soul!
Apparently I curse Houses- I've spent the past few nights at Felicia and Todd's lovely home (if you are reading this, thanks again guys!). Somehow though, my presence there seems to have cursed the residence. I woke up the first morning with all the electricity out, which is not something that happens to often, or for more then a short time, in Chiang Mai. The next morning I awoke to a powered home that this time had no running water and no wifi! I'm not sure what I've done to have this power, but it is one I feel bad about. Fortunately for everyone involved, my lovely hosts can't host me the next few nights, which brings me to my next fun fact.....
I'm back in Tri Gong- The residency I lived in last time I was in CM, was one of the reasons my time so great. Located in a terrific spot of town, I had plenty of friends there, hot water, AC, wifi, and tons of stations on the TV (even Star World, which showed old episodes of Lost and The Office). Since I left, the owner, Adam, has transitioned his business to cater almost exclusively to tourists on short term stays. Adam, for those of you who don't know, is an extremely kind Thai man, who served as my "Thai father" while I was here. A father so over-protective he certainly put my dad to shame! Happily, when I stopped by the other night he greeted me with a warm smile and a loud clap of his hands as he shouted my name! He has offered me a super deal to stay for the next few nights. I'm happily sitting in my room (not the same as last time) watching The Wizard of Oz and enjoying unlimited AC!


By the Numbers:
This brings the total # of places I've stayed in the past 6 nights to 4. One night with a former student, one night at Kham Thi's (see below), 3 nights at Felicias and now Tri Gong for my remaining time in CM
The number of mosquito bites I have: so far I count 23. I'm sure by the time I post this it will be much higher. Why do I have the sweetest blood?!
Number of small Burmese children I've contemplated kidnapping: One! Those of you who followed my trip last time around, or listen to my countless Thailand story, might remember Kham Thi and Me Me. Kham Thi is a former co-workers, and one of my very good friends in CM. I used to give Me Me English lessons, which usually ended up as coloring events or dance parties. She did learn some very useful English words from me, including "give me five" "dance" and "guitar". She is now 9, and just as smart and full of energy as before. She gave me the warmest welcome I've received so far, running out to the motorbike to yell "I miss you" before I even got near the house. Kham Thi, is just as darling and hard working as ever, the only MAJOR change is she is now 8 months pregnant! Like most of the Burmese I know, this does not in any way hinder the work she does, but she did promise to take it a bit easy. Fortunately it sounds like she is taking care of herself, of course I did give her a lecture!
Number of Thai Massages- Just one so far, but that will change ASAP


Theres much much more to tell, but its past noon and I still haven't had anything to eat! I'm off to find more Khao Soy, and another massage as well.
Tales from Mae Sot are sure to come soon..........

Same Same but different!

"Same, Same but different" is a call farang tourists often hear when walking through any sort of touristy street market (the Chiang Mai night market and Kho Sahn Road being two examples). While the term is meant to imply the vendor has similar goods to one nearby, yet different (and therefore better), I noticed that phrase make its way into my thoughts the moment I stepped out of Chiang Mai's airport and into the hot, thick, Thailand air. Arriving late in the evening, 2 of my former (and I guess current again) co-workers met me at the airport and traveled with me back to my organizations lodgings. The drive home felt like a very odd dream. In a way it was as though I never left. I recognized a great deal of the sites we passed (Central Airport Plaza, some old friends' apartments, a former favorite restaurant, my old gym, etc.) and was hit with a flash of great memories, and in a way it felt as though I had never left. At the same time, things certainly felt different, as co-workers who I had once been close with acted shy towards me again, as if I were a new recruit, and I did notice many changes on the street (including at least one new KFC). All in all, it felt a bit surreal, though that might be in part to blame on the 26 hour trip!
On a different note, I got a stark reminder of my own American consumerism and materialistic values. Only 2 days ago I dedicated an entire blog entry to my pride in packing just one large pack! This accomplishment stayed with me throughout my entire journey, through the point when I happily learned that my bag had made it through the 3 flight luggage exchange and was with me in Thailand. My pride was dashed moments later, however, when I met my coworkers. They both started laughing, amazed that anyone could own, let alone pack, so many things! My pride quickly turned to embarrassment, as I realized how much (material goods and otherwise) I truly take for granted in the U.S.
I am finishing this post up at the Chiang Mai office, the same one I worked at 2 years ago! I've gotten to see some old students, which has been a special treat. One more surprise has been how much of my memory is tied up in my sense of smell. I realized this morning, when we stopped at the market for breakfast, how much I missed certain scents, even the bad ones!
I'm off now to eat some of the delicious fresh fruit I have been missing (mangosteen if you are curious)

14 Hours and one Bubble Tea Later

Free wi-fi and a 3 hour layover seemed a perfect reason to give a bit of an update. I just departed a 14 hour flight and am currently enjoy HKK's beautiful spotless airport. And with all my planning and packing I neglected to realize a very exciting fact. Hong Kong's airport is filled with places that serve bubble tea. So on that happy note I list some other "real time facts" from my trip so far:
Number of empty seats next to me on the plane:1
Numbers of hours slept on plane: 6.5 (this is great)
Numbers of Movies watched : 1- The Reader, a great film, but probably not the best choice as there was a young boy sitting diagonally behind me.
Numbers of TV Shows Watched: 2 (5 episodes of 30 Rock and 2 of Curb Your Enthusiasm)
Numbers of Sections of the NYTimes Read: 1 (The Week in Review)
Number of times Nicholas Kristoff proved he is my hero (today): 1 http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/03/opinion/03kristof.html?_r=1 This is a great piece and fits into my next fact-
Number of surgical masks spotted: Countless, the fear of swine flu pandemic seems to have caught hold here!
Numbers of books read from the 6 I carried on with me: Zero (to many other options)
Number of bubble teas consumed: 1 (and counting)
Perhaps the most exciting part of this trip so far is that I seem to have gained some "travel creed". Last time I did this trip I was certainly the lost looking girl, unsure which documents to present and thrown off guard by the different flight options etc. This time I had to flight partners approach me to ask advice about Hong Kong, including one law student, who as it turns out will be continuing on to Burma. Happily I was able to provide him ALL the information I had on travelling there.
It doesn't quite feel like I am on the other side of the world. So far I've checked my email and facebook and discovered that my phone does seem to work over here (*note* blackberry users). I have about another hour till my flight, I might take this time to stretch a bit, a search out some more bubble tea. Happy Monday Everyone!!!

I'm Packin'

There's no time to be modest here. I'm skilled in many things. Packing, however, is not one of them! Those of you who have traveled with me before, or had me as a visitor, know I tend to overpack, while forgetting something essential, like tooth-paste, or underwear. While I can't claim success in the latter quite yet, after many packings, un-packings and re-packings I reached my ultimate goal! Everything I want to bring fits in one (very large, stuffed to capacity) backpack!!! Of course this followed my mental debates of deciding between bring pants or presents for people I'm going to see, and calculating how much deet a person really does need. Tigz was there the whole time, clearly shedding all over my clothing to indicate he wants to come. So I also spent a bit of time wondering how long it would be before my parents noticed he was missing. I bet I have about a week!
I know I promised a few of you I would throw in a story about the last 36 hours or so, which included a goodbye dinner with far far far to much wine, Andrew my hero helping me dismantle my furniture and get into the Asia mindset with some Tiger beers, and of course the amazing goodbye dinner and some goodbye drinks. Unfortunatly, I still have to do a final run through of my packing, organize all the other stuff I brought home, and figure out where I can get cat food in Mae Sot.
So by the time most of you (the "bored at work crowd") are reading this, I will be on my way to Thailand. I have 3 flights and 22 hours of travel ahead of me! I'll be in contact on the other side!

A New York State of Mind

While it still hasn't hit me that I will really be leaving NY in a few short days, I have begun reflecting on all the things I will miss about this incredible city. As many of you know (and some probably share) I have an un-dying love hate relationship with this city. Having been born and spent the early years of my life here, until my parents selfishly dragged me to the suburbs (though I suppose my amazing little sister was a fair trade-off), no city will ever compare! As any of you who have ever lived in another city with me know, there are countless things this city offers that nothing else does. Without further ado, what I'll miss most about New York!

Accessibility- No city in the world has as much to offer, and its all so easy to get to. There are about 10 sushi places within a two block radius, and I don't even really live in a residential area! Ditto for movie theaters, bars and pretty much everything else!
Movies- This city gets them first, and has more places to see them! The downside of course being that its 12 dollars a ticket! More movies to see, less money to see them!
Bagels- Anyone whose ever lived anywhere else with me knows I refuse to eat a bagel anywhere else! Its just bound to be a disappointment!
NY Accents- Ok, that is not really accurate. Its not so much that I will miss the sound of NY accents, in that my seems to blend in much better when there are others around. My mis-pronunciation of words like "forgot" and "call" seem to be much more susceptible to others mockery in other cities.
Food- I'm not even a foodie, but I will miss all the top dining options (at least during restaurant week), and eclectic cuisines from all over the world. The upshot is, in a week I'll be eating Khao Soy, Mohinga, La Pe do and all my other favorite Thai and Burmese foods!
Central Park- Some of the greatest people watching in the world (or dog watching as me and Ja prefer), the best place to go running (if you an avoid the bikers) and as cliche as it is, the best picnic spot in NY!
Yoga- Yes, I know I can practice in Thailand, and I am sure I'll find a studio in Baltimore (if anyone has any suggestions please give a shout out), but I can't imagine any place being as welcoming and loving as Laughing Lotus! I will miss all the great teachers and amazing friends I have there, as well as the great vibe I feel whenever I walk in the door!
Bookstores- Everywhere! While a decline in the number of nearby bookstores will be good on my wallet, I will miss the ability to wonder the city and come across a non- corporate book shop!
Coffee and tea shops!- Same as above, plus free wi-fi!
Walking- There are a few other cities in the world that have the same amazing public transportation that NYC offers. Sadly, this means in a few short months, I will probably be back behind the wheel of a car....watch out! (sorry environment)
Lost- Yes, I know I will be able to find it online, and probably buy the whole season on dvd in about 3 weeks, but I made a promise to save the last 2 episodes for a bit longer, and I'm only as good as my word! Losties that are reading this....NO SPOILERS!!!
My Apartment- I am sitting on my balcony as I write this, taking in the end of a beautiful sunset. Yes, I would be able to see more if it weren't for the post office, and yes, there's not much else here, but I really will miss this place! I'm near almost every subway line, I had a 7 minute walk to work, and the most AMAZING roommate!!!
Music- I realize there is music in other places, but I also know some of what I am missing this summer, most notably PHISH (at Jones Beach!!!) and Eddie Vedder! I'm sure there is more, but I don't want to know, so don't tell me!
Features in TV and Movies- I know it is silly, but I still get excited when I recognize a place in any of the countless movies and TV shows featured in NY. I guess I'll have the wire next year, but somehow I don't think that will be the same.........
Culture- Ok, so this isn't really true. I am one of those horrible people who never takes advantage of all the museums, theatre, etc this city has to offer, unless a friend from out of town drags me. That being said, I felt like I had to add that, because, hell, it is NY!!
The Daily Show- I'll miss my regular news update during the next 3 months! Plus, there's something nice about knowing Jon Stewart is in the same city as me!
My Family- Yes, I complain (especially about Long Island) but I have loved that they are this close. And its nice knowing no matter what else is going on, I get unconditional love from Tigger!


Things I won't miss:
Time Square- I hope I don't need to explain this!
Pigeons- I hate all birds, but these "rats with wings" are the worst!
Cost of Living- I've spent more during certain weekends than my current living stipend! I look forward to 20 baht dinners (aprox 50 cents) and 200 baht movies (about 5 dollars). Judging by the lovely apartment I put a deposit down on in Baltimore, that won't be to bad either!
Murray Hill- If you don't get this one, go to YouTube and search "Murray Hill" No offense to those of you who live there , but I'm sticking by this one!

One more thing........
The most important thing of all! I will miss all my family and friends who live here!!!! :) Please, please, please stay in touch!

What its all about

Those of you that followed my journey last time around know I was working with an amazing Burmese Women's group, teaching women's empowerment, human rights, democracy building, health and of course, the dreaded English classes! I had an absolutely amazing trip, filled with incredible people and countless new experiences. I also became deeply involved in the Burmese democracy movement, a cause that I stay attached to after I moved back to NY.
I'll thought I'd take this time to explain a bit about what its all about.............
Burma is a country is South East Asia, that was once known as the "Rice Bowl of Asia" do to its wealth of natural resources and diverse cultures. The country was part of British India until gaining independence in 1948. While unified as one country, Burma is made up of 9 separate ethnic states, which were promised independence in 20 years. This promise was never granted, as in 1962 the democratic government was toppled by a military coup, installing a military dictatorship led by General Ne Win. He ruled until 1988, and under his "Burmese Way to Socialism" Burma went from Asia's "Rice Bowl" to one of the poorest, and sickest countries in the world.
In 1988 unrest over political corruption and economic mismanagement led to a country wide protests, began by students. The protests, which began on August 8th, 1988, are known as the 8888 revolutions. Thousands were killed and the protests eventually stopped, but the government did promise free elections for the first time in 30 years. In 1990, despite the military's attempt to fix the polls, the National League For Democracy, a pro-democracy party, won 392 out of 489 seats. Unfortunately the military government refused to acknowledge this, and stayed in power. Many of you might remember that another nation wide protest was held in fall of 2007, led by thousands of Buddhist monks, the country's most revered people. The military government once again crushed the people's protests, killing hundreds in the process.
Besides the continued suppression of democracy, the government also continues to persecute Burma's ethnic hill tribe groups. These groups, which maintain different cultures from those in mainland Burma, face continued threats from the military government. The military forces people off their land, uses women and children to test for landmines, recruits children soldiers and utilizes rape as a weapon of war. Since 1988 thousands of refugees have fled to neighboring countries, especially Thailand and Malaysia.
That (extremely short) summary brings us up to date. Stay tuned to learn about what I am doing to take part in the democracy movement and human rights struggle for the people of Burma

Getting Ready

Welcome to the superior "summer of" blog!

I am about to embark on another jaunt to Northern Thailand. As most of you reading this already know, I am going to be spending 3 months working with a Burmese women's group, helping to anazlyze research and write a report on HIV/AIDS rates along the Burma border. It should be interesting and hopefully meaningful work, and should provide great preparation for School of Public Health which I am begining in the fall! Yes thats right, in the next 9 days I have to prepare for a 3 month trip to the other side of the world while completely pack up my apartment to ship things to Baltimore, where I will be pursuing my masters at Johns Hopkins. Of course I also am taking the time to see as many good friends in NY (who I will greatly miss) and foolishly try to get my life in order!

I want to give a big thank you to everyone who came out last night to party and donate to my cause and an even BIGGER shout out to all of you reading this (both near and far) who have stuck by me over the past, very turbulent, year! I couldn't be at this great place in my life if it wasn't for all of you!
Looking forward to hearing from everyone!


On a totally seperate note, to avoid the comments of my last blog, I freely acknowledge that I can't spell and I have little to no grasp of proper English grammar. If there is spell check where I am writing from, I promise to use it! Otherwise get off my back! You know who I'm talking too...