Reflections 2 Coffee and Tea Time in Ethiopia

I’ve always been a very strongly avowed anti-coffee person. Unless I was really exhausted (finals week, late night followed by an early morning) I haven’t drank coffee regularly since some time in college. I had two houseguest incidences this year, once with a cranky mom and once with an even crankier best friend, who woke to discover the lack of coffee situation in my home. So all the hype surrounding Ethiopian coffee never really excited me. For those that don’t know, coffee was discovered here and Ethiopians take their coffee VERY seriously. 8 months here and my opinion on coffee has certainly changed, and though I still can wake up without the cup and not want to tear anyones head off, I will miss the beverage here.

Unlike in the U.S., coffee isn’t meant to be drunk on the run, but sat and enjoyed. This dates back to the coffee ceremony, which is a beautiful thing to enjoy at a party or holiday. Coffee beans are rosted over a small fire till they are ready to be seeped in water to make the coffee. Popcorn is passed around to pass the time till the coffee is ready. The spell is lovely, and sometimes incense are burned to add to it. Once the beans are roasted and boiled to perfection, cups and passed around and shared, with generous amounts of sugar, but normally no milk. Ethiopian coffee is extremely strong, and a cup usually has me wired for hours. At most coffee ceremonies I’ve had at least two!

Most days are less coffee ceremony and more macchiato, which is a good thing. I can’t really handle the strong taste without some milk, and this treat that the Ethiopians learned from the Italians is really great. I’ve never been to an Ethiopian office where coffee isn’t immediately offered to me. Here at DKT I am often brought it exactly how I like it (lots of milk, lots of sugar) at exactly 10:15 and offered again in the afternoon . That is usually too much for me, which brings me to another delicious, but more underated, Ethiopian hot beverage, tea.

Most people don’t think of tea when they think of Ethiopia, but it is another welcome treat. Warm and spicy, boiled water is also flavored with cinnamon for an added taste. It is a more calming relaxing way to enjoy a beverage with a coworker and friend, and I often opt for that in the weekends, and most afternoons at work. I seem to be a bit of an anamoly here in Ethiopia, most people are either coffee or tea but I like to limit, while not completely avoiding, caffeine.
There is one other hot beverage, known as Shai, which is half coffee, half tea. Ethiopians like mixing things: coke and ambo (a natural sparkling water), spaghetti and injera. I’ve try Shai once and found it made me even more hyper than regular coffee! As I write this a cup of coffee, with warm milk and an amble helping of sugar, is being placed on my desk. I am off to enjoy but promise future houseguests that from now on I should have some coffee waiting for you!

Reflections 1

With the countdown on my time here set at 10 days, it seems like I should be doing some reflecting, Mostly though, I am just doing lots of work! I’ve finished up my research (the second trip to Awasa was extremely successful) and I am not using my data to write both a paper for DKT and another for my own thesis. There is always time to procrastinate, and I thought I would use my last few blog entries to write a bit about what I’ll miss and what I won’t. I’d like to say I will post every day for the last 10 I am here, but that seems like an impossible goal, so let’s just say I’ll do my best.
Today’s Topic: My walk to work (and beyond).
This one is easy; I definitely won’t miss walking to work, or anywhere else in Addis Ababa for that matter. I wish I could say I’ll miss the sites, sounds and smells, but besides for the wisp of incense that sometimes comes from a coffee stand, I don’t think I will. I know I’ve written about it before, and bitched plenty on Facebook, but there is really nothing more complex to describe than walking around on the streets here. At first it seemed like my emotional reactions evolved over days, or weeks. First I was depressed by the poverty, which is certainly some of the most extreme in the world. If there is a person who could look at a woman dressed in rags, with no shoes on her feet, sitting on the ground nursing her baby and NOT feel depressed, well I really hope you aren’t reading my blog, because I don’t want to know you! As I got more settled in here this turned to hopelessness. There is just so much poverty, how will it ever change? After a few weeks, once the culture shock kicked in, my feelings again changed, to anger and annoyance. On a 10-minute walk to work up to 20 people may approach me asking me for money. There is only so many times you can say no to a small child trying to sell you a packet of gum before you just want him to go away. It sounds heartless, but I know most of the money in that case goes right back into a larger supply chain that is designed to keep kids on the street selling things. I don’t like to give money because I don’t want to encourage begging. It isn’t sustainable for individuals, or the country as a whole. Later, this anger just turned to frustration. I live such a blessed life, who am I to be angry with someone who has so little and sees me as a way to make some money? Aren’t I here to help?

As I said, these feelings first came in long waves. Now, I’ve noticed, I can feel this range of emotion in a short 10-minute walk. Sad as I walk past a small child playing with nothing but a rock on the street, than hopeless that I’ve been here 8 months and I still don’t know how to change that. Annoyed when his brother follows me for 4 blocks, pestering me for money I know I am not going to give. And then of course frustrated at myself, for becoming angry at such a small thing.

There isn’t much to break this cycle. Taking Puddles off the street was probably had the greatest effect, but as much as I want to I can’t adopt any of the adorable children (or any more puppies) that I walk past every day. I sometimes give people, especially mothers, food, which can sometime alleviate the emotions for at least a few blocks. I try to do this whenever I can, meaning we never make it home with leftovers, and I often make several stops at fruit stands to make it home with any produce, which are obviously minuscule sacrifices.

Leaving Ethiopia won’t erase the images of poverty I’ve witnessed here, and I am sure I will find myself in a similar environment before to long. I am, however, looking forward to a less emotionally draining walk, for at least a few months.

Reflections 1

With the countdown on my time here set at 10 days, it seems like I should be doing some reflecting, Mostly though, I am just doing lots of work! I’ve finished up my research (the second trip to Awasa was extremely successful) and I am not using my data to write both a paper for DKT and another for my own thesis. There is always time to procrastinate, and I thought I would use my last few blog entries to write a bit about what I’ll miss and what I won’t. I’d like to say I will post every day for the last 10 I am here, but that seems like an impossible goal, so let’s just say I’ll do my best.
Today’s Topic: My walk to work (and beyond).
This one is easy; I definitely won’t miss walking to work, or anywhere else in Addis Ababa for that matter. I wish I could say I’ll miss the sites, sounds and smells, but besides for the wisp of incense that sometimes comes from a coffee stand, I don’t think I will. I know I’ve written about it before, and bitched plenty on Facebook, but there is really nothing more complex to describe than walking around on the streets here. At first it seemed like my emotional reactions evolved over days, or weeks. First I was depressed by the poverty, which is certainly some of the most extreme in the world. If there is a person who could look at a woman dressed in rags, with no shoes on her feet, sitting on the ground nursing her baby and NOT feel depressed, well I really hope you aren’t reading my blog, because I don’t want to know you! As I got more settled in here this turned to hopelessness. There is just so much poverty, how will it ever change? After a few weeks, once the culture shock kicked in, my feelings again changed, to anger and annoyance. On a 10-minute walk to work up to 20 people may approach me asking me for money. There is only so many times you can say no to a small child trying to sell you a packet of gum before you just want him to go away. It sounds heartless, but I know most of the money in that case goes right back into a larger supply chain that is designed to keep kids on the street selling things. I don’t like to give money because I don’t want to encourage begging. It isn’t sustainable for individuals, or the country as a whole. Later, this anger just turned to frustration. I live such a blessed life, who am I to be angry with someone who has so little and sees me as a way to make some money? Aren’t I here to help?

As I said, these feelings first came in long waves. Now, I’ve noticed, I can feel this range of emotion in a short 10-minute walk. Sad as I walk past a small child playing with nothing but a rock on the street, than hopeless that I’ve been here 8 months and I still don’t know how to change that. Annoyed when his brother follows me for 4 blocks, pestering me for money I know I am not going to give. And then of course frustrated at myself, for becoming angry at such a small thing.

There isn’t much to break this cycle. Taking Puddles off the street was probably had the greatest effect, but as much as I want to I can’t adopt any of the adorable children (or any more puppies) that I walk past every day. I sometimes give people, especially mothers, food, which can sometime alleviate the emotions for at least a few blocks. I try to do this whenever I can, meaning we never make it home with leftovers, and I often make several stops at fruit stands to make it home with any produce, which are obviously minuscule sacrifices.

Leaving Ethiopia won’t erase the images of poverty I’ve witnessed here, and I am sure I will find myself in a similar environment before to long. I am, however, looking forward to a less emotionally draining walk, for at least a few months.

Reflections 1

With the countdown on my time here set at 10 days, it seems like I should be doing some reflecting, Mostly though, I am just doing lots of work! I’ve finished up my research (the second trip to Awasa was extremely successful) and I am not using my data to write both a paper for DKT and another for my own thesis. There is always time to procrastinate, and I thought I would use my last few blog entries to write a bit about what I’ll miss and what I won’t. I’d like to say I will post every day for the last 10 I am here, but that seems like an impossible goal, so let’s just say I’ll do my best.
Today’s Topic: My walk to work (and beyond).
This one is easy; I definitely won’t miss walking to work, or anywhere else in Addis Ababa for that matter. I wish I could say I’ll miss the sites, sounds and smells, but besides for the wisp of incense that sometimes comes from a coffee stand, I don’t think I will. I know I’ve written about it before, and bitched plenty on Facebook, but there is really nothing more complex to describe than walking around on the streets here. At first it seemed like my emotional reactions evolved over days, or weeks. First I was depressed by the poverty, which is certainly some of the most extreme in the world. If there is a person who could look at a woman dressed in rags, with no shoes on her feet, sitting on the ground nursing her baby and NOT feel depressed, well I really hope you aren’t reading my blog, because I don’t want to know you! As I got more settled in here this turned to hopelessness. There is just so much poverty, how will it ever change? After a few weeks, once the culture shock kicked in, my feelings again changed, to anger and annoyance. On a 10-minute walk to work up to 20 people may approach me asking me for money. There is only so many times you can say no to a small child trying to sell you a packet of gum before you just want him to go away. It sounds heartless, but I know most of the money in that case goes right back into a larger supply chain that is designed to keep kids on the street selling things. I don’t like to give money because I don’t want to encourage begging. It isn’t sustainable for individuals, or the country as a whole. Later, this anger just turned to frustration. I live such a blessed life, who am I to be angry with someone who has so little and sees me as a way to make some money? Aren’t I here to help?

As I said, these feelings first came in long waves. Now, I’ve noticed, I can feel this range of emotion in a short 10-minute walk. Sad as I walk past a small child playing with nothing but a rock on the street, than hopeless that I’ve been here 8 months and I still don’t know how to change that. Annoyed when his brother follows me for 4 blocks, pestering me for money I know I am not going to give. And then of course frustrated at myself, for becoming angry at such a small thing.

There isn’t much to break this cycle. Taking Puddles off the street was probably had the greatest effect, but as much as I want to I can’t adopt any of the adorable children (or any more puppies) that I walk past every day. I sometimes give people, especially mothers, food, which can sometime alleviate the emotions for at least a few blocks. I try to do this whenever I can, meaning we never make it home with leftovers, and I often make several stops at fruit stands to make it home with any produce, which are obviously minuscule sacrifices.

Leaving Ethiopia won’t erase the images of poverty I’ve witnessed here, and I am sure I will find myself in a similar environment before to long. I am, however, looking forward to a less emotionally draining walk, for at least a few months.

Reflections 1

With the countdown on my time here set at 10 days, it seems like I should be doing some reflecting, Mostly though, I am just doing lots of work! I’ve finished up my research (the second trip to Awasa was extremely successful) and I am not using my data to write both a paper for DKT and another for my own thesis. There is always time to procrastinate, and I thought I would use my last few blog entries to write a bit about what I’ll miss and what I won’t. I’d like to say I will post every day for the last 10 I am here, but that seems like an impossible goal, so let’s just say I’ll do my best.
Today’s Topic: My walk to work (and beyond).
This one is easy; I definitely won’t miss walking to work, or anywhere else in Addis Ababa for that matter. I wish I could say I’ll miss the sites, sounds and smells, but besides for the wisp of incense that sometimes comes from a coffee stand, I don’t think I will. I know I’ve written about it before, and bitched plenty on Facebook, but there is really nothing more complex to describe than walking around on the streets here. At first it seemed like my emotional reactions evolved over days, or weeks. First I was depressed by the poverty, which is certainly some of the most extreme in the world. If there is a person who could look at a woman dressed in rags, with no shoes on her feet, sitting on the ground nursing her baby and NOT feel depressed, well I really hope you aren’t reading my blog, because I don’t want to know you! As I got more settled in here this turned to hopelessness. There is just so much poverty, how will it ever change? After a few weeks, once the culture shock kicked in, my feelings again changed, to anger and annoyance. On a 10-minute walk to work up to 20 people may approach me asking me for money. There is only so many times you can say no to a small child trying to sell you a packet of gum before you just want him to go away. It sounds heartless, but I know most of the money in that case goes right back into a larger supply chain that is designed to keep kids on the street selling things. I don’t like to give money because I don’t want to encourage begging. It isn’t sustainable for individuals, or the country as a whole. Later, this anger just turned to frustration. I live such a blessed life, who am I to be angry with someone who has so little and sees me as a way to make some money? Aren’t I here to help?

As I said, these feelings first came in long waves. Now, I’ve noticed, I can feel this range of emotion in a short 10-minute walk. Sad as I walk past a small child playing with nothing but a rock on the street, than hopeless that I’ve been here 8 months and I still don’t know how to change that. Annoyed when his brother follows me for 4 blocks, pestering me for money I know I am not going to give. And then of course frustrated at myself, for becoming angry at such a small thing.

There isn’t much to break this cycle. Taking Puddles off the street was probably had the greatest effect, but as much as I want to I can’t adopt any of the adorable children (or any more puppies) that I walk past every day. I sometimes give people, especially mothers, food, which can sometime alleviate the emotions for at least a few blocks. I try to do this whenever I can, meaning we never make it home with leftovers, and I often make several stops at fruit stands to make it home with any produce, which are obviously minuscule sacrifices.

Leaving Ethiopia won’t erase the images of poverty I’ve witnessed here, and I am sure I will find myself in a similar environment before to long. I am, however, looking forward to a less emotionally draining walk, for at least a few months.

Awasa

I just got back from another trip to Awasa, which is in Southern Ethiopia, about 5 hours away from Addis Ababa. I've focused some of my research there because it is a medium size city with a large University presence and is a transit point from different areas of the country as well as surrounding countries. All of these factors are common in sites where emergency contraception is common. We went there once before, in late January, to speak with pharmacists, sex workers and University students. Unfortunately the students had been in the middle of exams, so we left them some surveys to fill out (not my favorite idea) and completed our other interviews.
The interviews at that time had been really interesting. On the way to Awasa we had stopped at a town called Sheshamanye. Sheshamanye is known for one thing, it is the Rasta's capital! Rastafarian is popular here, especially in the south and Sheshamanye is the land the former emperor Haile gave the Rasta people. Driving through it feels as though a typical Ethiopian town, with donkeys and women carrying water on their heads, has been invaded by a Phish show, or backpackers on Koh Sahn road!
We interviewed some sex workers there, at one of DKT's drop in centers. The centers are really amazing places where women can relax during the day, do their laundry, watch tv, and of course, get education and free condoms! The knowledge gap between the women we spoke to in Addis and in Sheshamanye was astounding. While they all use condoms (good news!) there was much less knowledge of EC, and the process some women told us they go through when a condom broke was positively medieval! It was great to speak with the girls and share some information with them as well.
This time around we merely drove through Sheshamanye, and made it to Awasa on Monday afternoon, in time to speak to some girls at the University about Postpill. When I was first creating this study everyone in my office told me University students would never talk to me. I'm glad I tried anyway. We got some great responses (at Addis University as well). It was interesting to think how in some ways University students are so much alike everywhere in the world. What was frightening was in many ways University students are greater sexual risk takers than Commercial sex workers! All of this will be written up in my report, so you'll just have to wait to hear more.
Awasa is located on a beautiful, pristine lake, which we had the chance to spend a bit of time on during both visits. I don't yet make enough money to stay at any of the fancy resorts, but we sat and had a juice, and watched the birds, which even I had to admit were very beautiful! I have some pictures of the fisherman serenely fishing as pelicans and herons play nearby, I'll try to post them soon!
The drive back to Addis is a bit of an eye opener. Before my first trip to Awasa the only other time I had traveled over land in Ethiopia had been in the North, during the rainy season. Everything was green and lush, it was hard to imagine a famine the likes of which this country is still known for. Driving to Awasa it is much clearer. About 2 hours outside of Addis, the land turns brown and dry. We passed mud and straw huts and people grazing cattle, and I tried to imagine how anyone could eek out a living in such a place. It seems impossible to comprehend, even living in Addis, where I can almost always have a hot shower and bottled water is less than 50 cents! As you go south the land gets green again, and we even passed a few ostrich running in some protected land.
Sadly, it seems much of the viable land has been taken over for commercial interests. About an hour outside of the city is a "Chinese village" where a Chinese company runs its construction facilities. Marring the landscape is a large cement factory, spewing residue into the air, it seems endlessly. I know that such factories need to exist for smooth roads and other improved infrastructure, but it is ugly all the same! A bit further down are the flower camps, row upon row of huge greenhouses growing flowers, most to be imported to Europe. Now I love flowers as much as the next girl, but it made me think twice about where such lovely gifts come from, and at what cost.

I apologize for the fact that this blog is all over the place! I am trying to write more regularly in the next few weeks before I leave, and I wanted to get this all down.

Miss me?

I am a bad blogger! A very very bad blogger! I think most of you at this point must have realized I didn't return back to school in January. No, I am still in Ethiopia! Here is a very brief summary to catch you up:
In November I was offered a consultancy position with DKT Ethiopia, to do some research on their Emergency Contraception product.
Later in November me and Paul headed out on an AMAZING walking safari in Kenya. It was one of the most amazing trips of my life, and it deserves its own blog post
In December I spent a month in the U.S./Canada and managed to spend lots of time with my family, see most of my friends, go to Aruba with the Golds and even make it to an early Christmas in Vancouver!
In early January Paul and I headed back here, where we were greeted by an enthusiastic puppy who was very happy to see us. She was much less happy to be neutered a few days later, but that is another story, involving the vet doing the surgery on our dining room table, that surely also deserves its own post.

So a bit more about what I am doing here. First of all, I am having a blast! I LOVE my job! DKT is such a great organization to work at, it feels like bureaucracy is illegal here. If I have an idea my boss tends to tell me to run with it. When I learned that DKT is introducing a new lubricant product I was asked to think up a name! Talks about condom sizes and flavors, and family planning ad models are common talk, in other words I feel right at home!

The research, though it is not completed, was great too. Myself and my team (I have a team, how cool is that?) visited several pharmacists around the city to interview them on their behavior and opinions towards to pill. This was followed by interviewing commercial sex workers at several drop in centers around the city, which was extremely interesting! And even more so, was going on an outreach ride at night, and talking to many of the CSW on the street! I did a bit of outreach like that in Thailand, and I forgot how interesting it is and how much I enjoy it. The girls aren't anything like you'd expect them to be. Many of them are really outgoing and funny, and willing to share all sorts of information. These interviews were followed by more with university students. It was certainly interesting to see the cultural differences (and similarities) between students here and in the U.S.

All this was followed by a one week trip to beautiful Awasa (in the south of the country) where we repeated the research. The city was laid back, quiet on a huge lake that was all much more relaxing than Addis! At one point, following a long day of interviews, sitting by the lake drinking a fresh mango juice, I literally couldn't take a smile off my face!

Now it's not all fun and games! I'm now entering and analyzing the data, which is certainly tedious! All in all, it has been an amazing experience and I have learned so much!
Thank you to everyone who helped me with the decision to stay here and do this work! I'll try to be a better blogger for the rest of the time I am here, but for now, much love!

This week

It has been a funny week or so. Paul and I have a bunch of big decisions to make, which I will write about when they are made. My time with CARE is wrapping up soon. Everytime I hold a focus group with the domestic workers I come out thinking "that is the saddest one ever". The one I held on Friday certainly made me feel that way.
As I've written about before, I've been meeting with Domestic workers here, to find out more about their needs (an lives). The last few were held at nigh schools, but we wanted to find a way to reach the workers that don't (or can't) go to school. We (mostly my amazing coworker Biniam) managed to get in touch with some brokers and we set up a group. 8 women walked in, all I would learn were 20 and under. 4 had children strapped to their hip. 3 of the others had children at home, watched by a friend or roommate. One more had a child who had died a few months before. The saddness, anger and frustration was palpable in the room. I won't get into the details, but these were all women who had worked as dw at some point in their lives. A few had gotten pregnant while working (2 by their employer, one who had been raped by him) and were than fired. Others had moved on to bar work, where they had gotten boyfriends who paid for their things, but bolted as soon as they got pregnant. They were fired as well. People won't hire domestic workers with children, because it is an almost full time job. The bars won't because of the late nights and small room space provided to live in. So the women are reduced to washing clothes, one household will pay them 50 birr/month to wash their clothing. That is just about 3 dollars, or what Paul and I paid for a pizza last night. Rent, most said is 250 birr a month, split with a roomamte. That is before the costs for their kids, many who despondently shared with us that they want to put up for adoption. As one woman put it "I don't want my mistakes to hurt my daughter".
The kids were all adorabe, though I resisted adopting them on the spot. I commented, as I was thanking them, that their children were all so quite and well behaved, nothing like American children. "That" on woman told me "is because they are poor children. They know not to make noise, because there is nothing to ask for".
I have 2 weeks here to stress how important this group is. I still want to figure out the best way to reach them. If anyone has any ideas please share them with me.

Paul knows I always feel glum after these sessions, and him and Puddles did the best they could to cheer me up! A Saturday of movies and cuddling on the couch with my 2 roomies was much appreciated!
Even better, we had the chance to escape the city on Sunday. Paul and I, plus our friends Jack and Stacy went horseback riding in the forests outside Addis. It was a beautful trail, and though the weather was odd (the first rain outside of the rainy season) it was cool and crisp, which was nice since all four of us are extremely pale! I ended up with a horse that can be best described as "tempormental and stubborn". While everyone elses horses would go when kicked and stopped when reighned (like trained horses are suposed to do) mine liked to stop at the back of the pack and pick up slowly. He wouldn't move any faster when I kicked him, but he would break into a trot whenever he felt like. It was a bit scary but our tour gudie was great and the horse was never mean, he clearly just didn't feel like working. It was a long day (we began riding at 10 with a lunch break around noon and got back close to 5) and were all sore and tired. It was really great though, and anyone spending time in Addis should definitly check Eqquos Addis out, especially if you need a break from this city. I should have pictures from our ride up in some form too.

Lalibela!

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/Nov62010?authkey=Gv1sRgCODq8-_e5Iiz9QE&feat=directlink



I am trying something new today. People who don't have facebook, or are not friends on me on facebook (how sad!) have been complaining that they don't get to see any pictures of Ethiopia! I am rectifying that right now, by attempting to link directly through blogger 2 links to the albums of me and Paul in Lalibela. Here is some story as well, though I think in the case of this particular trip, the pictures tell 1000 words.


Lalibela is Ethiopia's second most sacred place, a area once known as "New Jerusalem" King Lalibela had visit had visited Jerusalem in the 12/13th century and wanted to build a sacred city in his own country, filled with churches and a site for pilgrimages. What he created was truly amazing. Carved out of rock, many of the churches are monolithic meaning they were all carved out of one slab, directly out of the mountain. At each site (there are 13 of King Lailibea's churches) Paul our tour guide Indy and I slipped off our shoes and entered the cold dark churches that are still standing after 700 years. Many have paintings of saints (St. George is a favorite here) or Mary and Jesus painted on the wall. Its hard to explain in words, but after having seen more churches than I can ever count in Europe, this was a totally different experience. In a way they seem more like the Buddhist Temples in SE Asia, cool and serene, providing a place for reflection. Many of the churches are connected by dark tunnels, one of which is was possible to walk through, a disconcerting yet rewarding trip. The first link here is from our first day there, visiting the 13 most famous churches in Lalibela. Take note of the many shots of Bet Gorges (House of St George) the monolithic church cut into the ground shaped as a cross. It was utterly spectacular.

Paul and I explored the grounds of our hotel that evening. Recommended for the restaurant and the views, we weren't disappointed on either front. We walked behind the hotel and managed to catch an amazing sunset through the mountains over the village. The hotel also has an a well known bird garden. Now those of you that know me know I don't really like birds. Actually having grown up near mostly NYC Pigeons and Long Island Seagulls, hate would be a more appropriate word. My love of birds wasn't enhanced at all when one pooped on me outside one of the churches that very afternoon (good luck, Indy assured me, even in Ethiopia). Even still, there was something nice about the happy sounds of what were admit idly very pretty colorful birds at dusk. But this hasn't changed my opinion of birds overall!

The next morning we headed out early to visit yet another rock hewed church, and a monastery, this time in the hills above the village. The 2 hour hike up was tough with the altitude, but amazingly rewarding, when we arrived at the top and got greeted with the view. I won't try to describe it here, but send your attention to the second link, which includes some pictures.

After a delicious lunch and a short break we were off again, this time to Yemrehana Kristos, a church about an hour and a half drive out of town, which predates Lailbela's churches by about 100 years. This was probably my favorite of the churches. We were the only tourists there when we arrived (though we ran into 1 other group when we left) and Indy had to find the priest, and his adorable son, to let us in. This church was built into a rock as well, surrounded by a cave that has protected it for so many centuries. As it is built into a cave it is surrounded by water and wood planks and bamboo make it possible to walk inside. The whole area is again cool and peaceful until you walk to the back and discover the partially mummified corpse of over 10,000 Pilgrims. It was beyond eerie when the priest switched one lamp on and we were greeted with the smiling corpses of these martyrs of 900 years ago, many who are said to have traveled from as far as Israel and Jordan!

Tired and hungry Indy left us back at our hotel for a delicious Ethiopian feast. We left Lalibela by plane early the next morning, tired yet excited to see our puppy and glad we had visited one of Ethiopia's most breathtaking sites. Enjoy the pictures!

2 Causes

Many of you have asked how you can help the people of Ethiopia. Those who haven’t asked, well I am sure you were wondering and haven’t gotten around to it yet. Even if you are not curious, please read on, this entry is full of important stuff.

I visited the Hamlin Fistula Hospital today. Most of you who have ever spent time with me know what a fistula is, but in case you don’t here is a brief explanation. Here in Ethiopia, and in much of the developing world, women often do not have access to, or can’t afford, to give birth with a doctor or trained health worker. This can result in a variety of horrible effects, including death due to hemorrhaging or infection. It can also lead to prolonged birth, lasting for days, and sometimes up to a week. The baby almost always dies and while the labor continues the womb pushes on the bladder or bowels, and can often cause tearing. This hole is known as a fistula, and it causes incontinence, with the woman unable to control her urine or feces. If this weren’t bad enough it is accompanied by a horrible spell, which often leads to women being shunned by their families and communities, forced to live in isolation in the edges of villages. Women often develop physical disabilities due to lack of movement or drop foot. This is where the Fistula hospital comes in. A simple surgery is all that is needed to fix the fistula, but it is something most women in Ethiopia can’t afford. The hospital offers it for free, allowing women to stay for free while they receive the surgery and recover, and even longer if they need more than one surgery. All they ask is that they tell others about the hospital, and they give birth to any further children there, with a trained doctor.

The place is amazing. I’ve heard about it: in school, from Nicholas Kristoff and Oprah (who is a major donor) and it was amazing to see in person. Its set on quite land filled with flowers, with different buildings housing pre-op, surgery, recovery, maternity as well as a school, a physical therapy center and a management of incontinence center (Oprah’s building). While beautiful, the smell is overwhelming and it is still stuck in my nasal memory. While the place is well funded, there are so many women in need of the surgery they are always in need of more. If you are interested in donating, or learning more, check out the website or the website for the fistula foundation which contributes to the hospital here: http://www.hamlinfistula.org.au/ as well as several other equally amazing, but less known ones. http://www.fistulafoundation.org/ . Even better, the Gold’s are sending me a package soon, to contain a dog crate and candy for a starving Canadian-American couple- but it can be filled with more. If you would like to send something to help the women out you can email me and I can give you the address in the U.S. to send it to. What is most in need is baby clothing, as most people don’t realize there is a birthing center. All women’s clothing, including stockings, would be welcome. If, just by chance, there are any super knitters out there, the women knit, so if you have any leftover “stash” please send that along. And I think a baby hat or sweater could be a great activity for a national knitting convention!

Wait, there is more. As I’ve mentioned before, one of the big projects I am working on here is research on the domestic workers. They are an extremely vulnerable and isolated group, often getting paid nothing or next to nothing (i.e. just about slaves) and are usually from rural areas and know no one in Addis. I’ve held several focus group discussions at some night schools that target domestic workers, and the findings have thus far been heartbreaking. Without going into to much detail, several have faced attempted rape by employers, sons of employers or friends of employers. They have to keep working for these people, as they have nowhere else to go. Two of the participants in my group last night were TWELVE! I just kept thinking when I was 12 my biggest concerns were the Kate Spade backpack I wanted and to not wanting to go to Hebrew school anymore, and here were these girls, forced to work in strangers homes for little or no money! Most came to Addis to escape early marriage, or because they were told they could continue school! Once they arrive they find they must work, for relatives or through brokers. And the girls I’ve spoken to may be considered “lucky” because their employers let them attend night school. Many other employers don’t. A coworker and myself have made this cause a top priority, though we aren’t sure just what to do yet. If you have any ideas please send them along. For the time being, there is a discussion of teaming with some local women’s shelters, to provide a safe space for these women (or in many cases girls) who have nowhere else to go. If you do send me women’s clothes, and the shelter, even our own, or others, is happening, I may donate some to that. If you have a preference, please indicate it. And please look forward to a further call for donations to this cause once we figure out exactly what we will be doing (around the holidays, perhaps).

I know it is rude and a bit pushy but so little goes so far here. Its something that we all forget (I do it at home, and even here), caught up in the day to day stresses of life. Its incredible that used clothing or a few dollars could have such value here. Please help me add to that value.

Eating in Ethiopia

When I say "Ethiopia" and "food" to most people I tend to get one of two responses. "I'm so jealous" or something akin to "there's food in Ethiopia?". The latter is of course wit inspired by the major famines people associate (somewhat accurately) with much of the country's recent history, made even more famous by South Park's Ethernopian, Starvin Marvin. Fortunately for those living in food scarce resources, this has been a "great rainy season" (maybe not to my shoes) and the countryside is remarkably green and lush!

The jealousy over the amazing food I am eating is a bit more accurate Ethiopian food really is unique and delicious! For those who have never had the pleasure of trying it, I recommend you do so already. If you are in any major city, odds are there is at least one restaurant. And if you aren't in a major city, well go to one (I recommend NY or DC).

The staple of any Ethiopian meal in injera a spongy pancake bread that is almost impossible to describe in words. Injera is part of every Ethiopian meal, and many Ethiopians I have met swear they can't eat any food (including pasta) without it. Injera is used to scoop up wot, the stew style foods of Ethiopia. Wots can consist of lentils, chickpeas, spinach, lamb, beef, chicken, etc. Traditionally, several people sit over a large plate of injera and wot, and use there hands to scoop up the food. This allows me to try many different dishes, a process made easier since I am no longer veggie (and I am very much no longer veggie, to Paul's delight). I've gotten better at not ending a meal covered in wat, and I've learned the name of some of my favorite foods. There is also great fresh fruit and fruit shakes are a favorite treat here. An avocado and papaya shake, so think you need to consume it with a spoon, is a great way to start a day!


Why Injera and wot is good enough I could live on it, its not the only option, by any stretch! Addis is an extremely international city, and with that comes international cuisine. By far the most common is Italian food. The Italians occupied Ethiopia in the 1930s and 40s, and though they were triumphantly expelled, several great influences lived on. There is terrific Italian food here, and as a New Yorker I don't say that lightly. There is even Pizza that I will (happily) eat! If pizza and linguine and brushetta wasn't enough, there are several Chinese restaurants around town. There is also Korean, Tex-Mex (better than I expected, though in no way rivaling the nacho standards set by both Darcy and Danny) and even a Thai place! We tried the Thai place and were pleasantly surprised, a great sign since Paul and I are serious Thai food snobs!

Ok, now it is time to eat lunch!

Doing good?

My sister Jen, an amazing girl, recently completed a one year Americorps contract, at an elementary school in New Orleans. Back home on Long Island, she is faced with the current slim job pickings in NYC. Recently she emailed me, asking what I would think about her "selling her soul to the man at an evil corporate job" sine there are very few non-profit jobs where she would have the opportunity to "do good". I promptly wrote her back, telling her, that in my opinion, what you do should in no way define who you are. We both have plenty of friends and family in the private sector who are "good people", this has to do with their values, not where they work. I am lucky enough to have been able to work in the field of my choice thanks in part to support from my father, who works in business. (Thanks Dad!)

This got me thinking though, what does it mean to "do good". Its a question I am faced with on a daily basis here. As a white person, it is assumed I am rich (and even though I am surviving on a small grant here, compared to most Ethiopians, I am). This means, as I have mentioned before, the appearance of beggars on almost every walk outside. How one deals with beggars seems to be a personal choice. Some people I know give small change when they have it, knowing that a 1/2 bihr (with 16 bihr=1 dollar) has far more worth to a beggar than to them self. Paul never gives them anything. He believes that this encourages further begging, and dissuades people from seeking other employment. I am more a believer in giving food, feeling that it can't be misused. But I don't give to anyone. As heartbreaking as the kids in Addis are, I don't like to encourage them running up to ferenji in packs, demanding "one bihr". So I tend to give to kids on their own, or more often to mothers with small children. They seem to me the most destitute. Paul and I discuss this a great deal as we walk the streets of Addis. His way allows him never having to make a decision in who is "most in need" but it doesn't leave him feeling "good". Mine does, but usually not for long. Even if I give a kilo of bananas away, half a block later I am likely to run in to a mother and child sleeping on the street, with nothing left to give them. And have I done good? If I feel good doing it, does it still count as "doing good"?

So what is good? I great thing about Addis is the inexpensive (by American standards) spa services, and I recently indulged in a 1 hour Swedish massage that cost me 10 dollars U.S. ! I walked out feeling great, but fell asleep thinking of the implications of those 10 dollars. It seemed to me that I was supporting the local economy, by paying the salary of at least one person working at the spa. But who knows how that dollar could have been better spent. Is it ok because I work at a nonprofit, but it wouldn't be if I worked for a private sector company here? Is it over indulgent to pay for a massage here, when others have so little? Or is it helpful to support local industry?

This brings me back to my sister and family. I believe that Jen and I were raised with great values (thanks to the aforementioned dad and an equally amazing mom), even though we were exposed to some less than stellar ones on a daily basis during our upbringing on Long Island. And I think that is how you become "good" It has nothing to do with your profession or where you work. There are plenty of snobby NGO workers here, and plenty of kind people working in the private sector in the U.S. It has to do with who you are. How you treat others and what you value. Do you drive a nice car because you like having a nice car? Or because you think that car makes you a better person than others? We like nice things in the Gold family (especially spa massages) but we know that those nice things are just things, at that those things don't define us. I try to take the values I grew up with with me here. The belief in the importance of giving, but also in making yourself happy. And that, at least to me, may be the best way to "do good"

Bahir Dar 2- The Vacation

After a week of field work, which I've already mentioned was extremely draining, Friday night I fell asleep by 8, surrounded by mosquito net, covered in deet. Addis is so elevated and cool that there is little need for mosquito protection, but Bahir Dar, its low altitude and lakeside location, demands malaria prophylaxis, mosquito nets, and lots and lots of deet. But anyone who has ever traveled with me in a tropical environment knows that even if I bathe in deet I still wake up with numerous bites! This time was no exception, so I am happy I had remembered to start my doxy regime, a malaria prophylaxis. Of course Doxy makes you sensitive to the sun. And anyone who has ever met me (or Paul) knows our skins aren't exactly tough in the sun to begin with. Therefore we caused quite a sight at breakfast Saturday morning, the odd ferenji covering ourselves in SPF 50 and deet! Feeling protected we were ready to start our day.

Bahir Dar, as I've mentioned, is located around Lake Taneh the third largest lake in Africa. It is also the source of the Blue Nile! We spent Saturday visiting the falls in a village about an hour away from Bahir Dar. Instead of springing the 100 bihr to rent a car to take us there Paul decided I needed the "African bus experience". 5 minutes later, as we sat in the last row of what was already proving to be a bumpy bus ride, after already been asked for money by no less than 6 people Paul couldn't remember why this experience was so needed! While we were shouted at (and in one case grabbed at) at every village we stopped in, we eventually made it to the falls, which proved to be worth the long journey. The hike was well worth the trip and sore backside. Being the end of the rainy season the falls were running at full force. The foliage was green and clean, and after a week of being shuttled from one NGO to another it felt great to be outside and moving around.Plus the money saved on the journey allowed me to purchase a scarf! I've posted pictures of our hike on facebook, and will try to find a way to get them here as well.

Saturday we visited the island monasteries that dot the lake outside the city. Ethiopian is about 60% Eastern Orthodox Christian, and the places of prayer are very different than churches I've seen in the west. The monasteries dated from the 13th-16th century, and were remarkably well preserved. Many housed books from the same period, in perfect condition thanks to the fact they were printed on goatskin. Painted stories line the walls in vibrant colors. One monastery was male only, but I ended up getting to visit the new "woman's museum" with a well informed tour guide. Most of the paintings there featured old testament stories, and we ended up discussing EOC similarities with Judaism, or which there are many! Paul discovered a menorah at the same monastery, proving I've had some influence on him.

Our boat drive took us back to the city in time to escape a torrential downpour. While the rainy season was coming to a close, it seemed the weather wanted a grand finale, and we were treated to some of the most amazing storms I've ever seen in my life! The evening before we witnessed what appeared to be 2 converging thunderstorms, which was a delight to see, until we realized that the rain was seeping in through the balcony window onto our floor! Apparently our very nice guest house room was no competition for Africa's rain! The storm Sunday was less severe and we were able to make it back to a cafe in time for lunch and Meskel!

Meskel is an Ethiopian Greek Orthodox holiday commemorating the finding of the true cross here. It is celebrated with large cross-topped bonfires, parades, singing, dancing and fireworks. The party lasted all night. I slept soundly thought it, my ability to sleep through almost anything is a great blessing in the developing world. Paul, not blessed in this regard, reported that there was singing and firecrackers till about 5 am!

We returned to Addis the next morning, the 45 minute Ethiopian Airs flight a great improvement over the nine hour car ride I had taken there. We were greeted by a very cheerful and hyper puddles puppy! I apologize for the length of this entry, I blame it on my failure to blog the journey for over a week. I promise more concise entries soon.

As I haven't found any other way to post pictures (besides facebook) here are a few linked http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/SouthGondarFieldVisitAndBahirDar?authkey=Gv1sRgCPmoq-6WjsiZHw# I am still working on it.....

Field Visit 3

left town of Debre Tarbor early Thursday morning, after waking to find the electricity was back just in time for me to leave. The drive back to Bahir Dar was once again beautiful. It was a market day so there were even more people than the drive there, something I hadn't thought would be possible. I spent most of the drive chatting with CARE's driver while taking high-speed photos from the window.
I arrived in Bahir Dar and was happy with what I saw. The third largest city in the country is known as "Ethiopia's Riviera". While I probably wouldn't go that far, there is no denying the city's charm. With palm trees lining wide streets, the areas slow pace seemed like a welcome improvement on Addis Ababa. And the presence of many restaurants, bars and fruit shops (as well as electricity) felt a welcome change from Debre Tarbor!

I went immediately to CARE's Bahir Dar office, where I was immediately whisked visit some of our field partners. We happened to arrive during a woman's group meeting, and although it wasn't our target demographic, I did a quick focus group discussion to find out a bit more about life in the city. The women were friendly and spunky, chiding me for not being married (so old at 26) and encouraging me to tell my friends and family in the U.S. about life in Ethiopia! Lunch time meant I could check into my hotel, and take a much longed for hot shower! After 4 days without hot water (which for me means not washing my hair) I was wishing I had taken up my bosses offer to get my hair braided! Feeling refreshed (and well nourished thanks to food and a machiato at the hotel restaurant) I continued with more partner visits in the afternoon.

Five o'clock finally arrived, which meant Paul arrived in Bahir Dar! Since the upcoming weekend was 3 days, he decided to meet me and spend it at some of the beautiful sites Bahir Dar has to offer. Tales (and pictures) from this trip will arrive in my next entry.

Friday meant one more day of FGD and interviews. I spent the morning with an amazing group of "youth" (which is defined here as 15-29) who run an anti-AIDS alliance in one of the poorest slums of the city. I met with founders and members of the group, all who were about my age. I was awed and inspired by their dedication to their community, even when it means they often risk stigma and discrimination themselves. Most are college students who managed to make it that far even though they all grew up in poverty, in the very same slums. While they pursued careers in IT, pharmaceuticals as well as other income activities, they spend their free time educating the community about HIV. Commercial Sex Work (CSW) is common in the area, and they run activities to reduce the stigma of buying and using condoms. They also create programs to allow people to talk about what they know about HIV, which allows for misconceptions to be acknowledged and corrected.

One of the things I was tasked with doing on this trip was some "positive case studies" of urban female youth. One girl in the group was a founder and clearly a great leader. I took her aside after the group and asked if she minded if I told her life story. She agreed, and began to tell me how her mother highhandedly raised 5 daughters in the same slum we were currently sitting. I won't tell her whole story here, but at one point she broke down into tears, and I felt horrible for asking her to share such an upsetting tale. But at the end she thanked me, because she is happy more people will know of her mother's strength and dedication. Currently she is in college, dating a boy who cares and respects her, and is "very grateful and happy" with her life. I was honored to be able to hear her story.

The day winded down with visits to a few more neighborhood groups. The visits were a great learning experience but the trip was amazingly draining! I met Paul for another amazing fruit juice, exhausted but excited for our 3 day weekend trip!

Field Visit 2

I am in the midst of a field visit, as I think I noted in my last post. We are in the town of, well to be honest I was told the name of the town once and I don’t remember it. All I know is for the first time in my life I am somewhere that isn’t listed in a lonely planet! I get looks walking down the street from more than just the little kids. This is the only tiem outside of 2 weeks spent in Burma that I get consistant expressions of surprise from the locals!
It’s a pretty town that is growing rapidly. Like most of Ethiopia, rural to urban migration is a major trend, and this town is seen as a jumping off point for further migration. Which actually fits in very nicely with the work I am doing. While my co-workers are here for a training I was brought along to speak to some of the local NGOs/CBOs that are based here, and Bahir Dar, a larger city I will be visiting tomorrow. While my program will be focusing on urban female youth (or UFY in this industry that LOVES acronymns) I belive it is impossible to look at the urban without thinking about the rural, since the majority of the poor urban population are migrants. So it was time to find out more.
One sub-group that I personally pushed for the program to target is trafficked girls. Trafficking is an issue I first got interested in while I was in South East Asia, where the problem is extremely prevelant. While it is not a common here, and it takes on different forms, it is still a major issue that seriously harms young women. So we arranged for me to visit Chad-et, a local NGO that provides services to prevent trafficking. The organization looks for girls that are vulnerable for trafficking and prevents it by offering education and alternative incomes. Additionally, they provide a safe-house for up to 32 girls who they directly stop from falling into the hands of traffickers.
There were no girls when I visited. Being the end of the rainy season meant most people were busy at home. After Christmas, I was told, was when trafficking tends to be highest, and the shelter is often full. Personally I was very impressed by Chalet’s services. It seems their projects do a great job at targeting girl’s individual needs and vulnerabilities. I hope I have the chance to work with them again in the future.
I spent the afternoon leaving town, checking out a women’s group CARE’s South Gondar office runs. The group meets for a week for training and discussion in life skills and empowerment. The women were kind enough to allow me to interrupt their session to speak to them and arrange a focus group study with a few of them. I had only been given about 20 minutes warning that a focus group could be arranged, so the entire thing was pretty improprtu. Overall, I was proud of my own ability to think on my feet and create questions and discussion that were engaging and informative. The information will be useful for future programming.

I’m struck by the differences in rural and urban poverty. While both are severe here, they seem to be very different. Seeing malnourished children (or adults) is less common, though not un heard of, in Addis. Here is seems more common. On the other hand, there is no begging here. I’ve only had one person say “give me money” in the past 3 days, something that usually happens at least half a dozen times on any given walk through Addis. Additionally, I can’t help thinking that people look happier here. Perhaps it is just that here I am viewing people walking to and from the town, likely selling goods, but I also think it may have to do with being near family and friends. When people migrate to urban areas they are also alone. Unlike someone as lucky as me, blessed with skype and email and facebook, as well as a network of friends and friends of friends throughout the world, youth often arrive knowing no one and being unable to reach those they left behind. A study I recently read found almost 60% of migrant girls report having NO friends! For some reason, of all the things I’ve read that might have been the saddest. And I think I may have written about it before, but it feels striking again here, as the poverty people are in is more communal. At the same time, I know there are horrible things I don’t see. Child marriage is still very common here. 2 of the 7 girls I spoke to yesterday (the oldest of whom was 27) reported being married by age 10. 5 had had children before the age of 20! These are some of the things youth are trying to escape by running to the cities. But comparing poverty seems like a fruitless exercise anyway. Best to once again be grateful for the things in my life, and continue working to bring people out of poverty here.

Field Visit 1

I am going to be in the field with CARE for the week. I just arrived in South Ghodnar, an area North of Addis Ababa, where CARE has a field office. It took about 12 hours by car (4x4) to get here, and although the trip was long with no break for about 8 hours between breakfast and lunch, it was beautiful. Every time I started to feel cranky about the fact that I was stuck in the middle seat I would take a look outside and notice people walking down the road with no shoes on. It shut my brain up fast! There are people everywhere, it seems, in Ethiopia. Only 45 minutes out of the city, the area becomes very rural, and we passed mud huts with no electricity. The flow of people, however, didn't seize. People herding cows and sheep. People carrying goods to/from markets. People (mostly children) selling produce and crafts. If there was any question about this country's high population and fertility rates (there wasn't), this trip erased it for me!

The scenery was beautiful. This "great" rainy season has been beneficial to the rural area, even if it means Paul and I have to swim the road our house is on! Everything is green and lush, and besides for the hail storm that we drove through, sunny. We passed three beautiful waterfalls as well as drove over the blue nile.

I will be here till Wednesday, when I will be going to the city of Bahir Dar for a few days. I will surely have more to tell soon. Additionally, I plan to have pictures and will find a way to post them to my blog soon.

Additionally, I know there has been a request for pictures of Puddles, I have them and will post those soon too!

Jennifer in New York

Just because my own work and studies tends to take me to the developing world doesn't mean I am not aware of the serious economic and social issues that individuals in the U.S. face every day. In fact, my first introduction to public health was working with Harlem RBI. U.S. urban public schools often have upwards of 40 children in one class with one teacher! New supplies are limited, buildings are often old and unsafe, playgrounds non-existent and teachers face the additional challenges of working with students who often have stresses at home. With that in mind I commend my amazing sister Jennifer Gold and all the great work she does for students facing the serious challenges and disadvantages of urban public schools in the U.S.
For those of you that don't know, Jen just finished an amazing stint working at a Langston Hughes Academy in New Orleans, the first Charter elementary school to open after Katrina! She is back in NY now, but her dedication to urban students hasn't waned.
This she is going to be participating in NYCARES Day 2010, working to revitalizing public schools in NY. I've copied her email below all about it, but I have to say its a great cause. Besides the work she and her team will be doing that day, the money she and her group are raising are going to the Nicole Schiffman Foundation, a great foundation, in honor of a wonderful girl the world lost far too soon.
Here is more information on NY Cares day, as well as a link to donate to this wonderful cause.
NY Cares Day is a day of service to revitalize public schools in all 5 boroughs. Along with 7,000 other volunteers, we will be painting hundreds of colorful murals, adding bright new line games to playgrounds, organizing school libraries, planting flowers, and more to create inspiring learning environments.
Like a walkathon, we are asking for your support by making a donation to New York Cares in honor of our service.
Every dollar donated to New York Cares amounts to $6 in service to the community. By raising $100 dollars, we can help:
· Provide 10 low-income students with one-on-one SAT tutoring for one year
· Prepare and serve 1,800 meals to the hungry and homebound.
· Grant books and supplies to 15 children in an Early Morning Reading program
· Buy children art supplies for a semester-long Art Explores programs
· Give 12 adult immigrants study materials to prepare for the U.S. Citizenship exam.
Donations are greatly appreciated and can be made by following the link below:
http://www.newyorkcaresday.org/nicoleschiffmanfoundation

Thanks for your generosity!

Happy New Year ^2

I wrote this post last Wednesday, the 8th, but this is the first time I seem to be able to upload it. I am not going to waste any more rare internet time editing it but know 2 important updates. Paul and I found a house and it looks like we may keep Puddles (see below).

I neglected a very important "number" in my last post!
Number of NEW YEARS I have this week: 2.

Yep- today marks the beginning of Rosh Hasana, the Jewish New Year
(Shanah Tova!). And Saturday, Sept. 11 is the Ethiopian New Year, bringing
in the year 2003! Ethiopians follow and Orthodox Christian calender, and
are 7 years behind and have 13 months.
Thursday, Friday or Saturday (depending a bit on lunar views) will also be
Eid, the end of the Muslim holiday of Ramadan! All this makes for a 4 day
weekend, plus lots of goats and ch
If that wasn't exciting enough......I've (temporarily) rescued and adopted a
puppy. I found her on the street a few days ago and she was in the same
place the following days. She is very young (I'm guessing just a few
months) and she kept running into the street and was hiding under a car.
Ethiopians treat dogs much better than some other countries I've been to,
but life on the street is still not easy for a puppy here (nor a person, as
I've written about before, and surely will again). Concerned, I got the
number of a vet, who came right over. He told me it was "going to cost me"
to get all the shots for her, the total was about U.S. $40! Having done it,
we discussed next steps, and the Dr. recommended getting her to a safer
place, because even with all the shots she is tiny, underfed and at risk of
other dogs, mean kids and cars. So I took her home!

I promised Paul I wouldn't get attached because I don't think I can keep
her, but I've broken that promise about a million times! She now runs out
to the gate to greet me, and waits at the door in the morning. She still
seems amazed when I bring her food twice a day! I am in the process of
finding her a home, hopefully someone that will let me come play with her
all the time!

CARE has some big arrivals today: The CEO of the National program, Helene
Gayle as well as Jenna Bush, Christy Turlington and 2 congress people (who I
have yet to hear the names of)! I won't get to be meeting anyone but Helene
Gayle (which is pretty awesome in its own right- google her!) but its
exciting to know that such people, who are influential in policy and
advocacy, are coming here to see our work.

And of course, matching all that, Paul arrives tonight as well! :)

Happy New Year (x2) everyone!!!!

AA by the Numbers

I wrote the last post a few days ago and I still have a few more minutes to kill of free internet so here are some fast facts about my life in Addis.

# of days here:16
# of times I've been caught in the rain: 1
# of times the currency conversion has changed:1. In my favor, and by 17%. Things are even cheaper than before, though this will probably be very bad for the economy.
# of marriage proposals I've received walking down the street: too many to count
# of days till Paul gets here: 3, hopefully putting a stop to the street side proposals and cat calls
# of international NGOs I pass on the way to work at my International NGO: at least 10
# of children adopted: zero (so far)
# of puppies adopted:zero, though I came real close today
# of kilometers I ran this morning: 5. The gyms are filled with runners, many who must by Olympians! It gets me competitive!
# of times I've gotten lost: Just twice. I am not sure if this means I have a great sense of direction, or I just haven't been exploring enough
# of cups of coffee I now drink a day. At least one, usually 2, during the week! I've never been a coffee drinking, and several of you have stayed over my apt. complaining about my lack of coffee. But the coffee here is so good (and so strong) that I just can't turn it down. I am trying my best to not drink it in the morning, to avoid an addiction. I've cracked several times, and am also fearful I've developed a 2:30 addiction
# of field visits: 0, but a few are in the works
# of times I've moved :1, and another one is is store when Paul gets here
# of times I've gotten belly sick :0, the DC burgers clearly prepared my stomach!

There are surely more numbers but thats it for now.

Working in AA

People keep asking me what exactly I am doing in Ethiopia. Well besides for dodging street children, getting my butt kicked by insane Ethiopian trainers at the gym, eating lots of yummy stews scooped with injerna, avoiding the daily rains and getting frustrated with finicky internet, I am also interning with CARE Ethiopia's Resource Poor Urban Female Youth Program Design Team. Now for those of you that didn't go to Emory (CARE is based in ATL and speakers from the organization showed up everywhere) CARE is one of the oldest NGOs in the U.S. Originally created after World War 2 "Cooperative for American Remittances to Europe" the organization now works throughout the world. In Ethiopia CARE focuses on women's issues including health, economic empowerment, rights and livelihoods. Currently CARE is redesigning their programs to become more far reaching and long lasting, that's where I come in.
As part of the program design team I am researching what projects currently exist and where the gaps are. I am also engaged in "partner mapping" trying to find information on all the organizations based in Ethiopia who we may be able to partner with. This is no easy task, as most don't have websites or reliable contact information, and I've found myself on the phone or visiting in person with resources. I am also going to be checking out many of our sites first hand, in order to put together some Concept Notes. I am really looking forward to getting to "the field". My first stop will probably be right here in Addis, where I will leave the expat enclave of the Bole neighborhood to venture to some of the slums near Mercato (and elsewhere) where CARE does most of its work here. I will be travelling with the Urban HIV program. Additionally, I was just informed that in a few weeks a team of us will be traveling to South Ghondar (a rural area up North) and Bahir Dar, a city by one of the large Lakes, also in the North, to see some of the adolescent programs occurring there. I am really looking forward to these trips.
I can already say I've learned a great deal about working with an International Organization overseas, though I don't think I've been here long enough to truly take in all I've absorbed. I am off to meet some friends for dinner (Korean food!) but look forward to some future updates real soon .