Lalibela!

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/Nov62010?authkey=Gv1sRgCODq8-_e5Iiz9QE&feat=directlink



I am trying something new today. People who don't have facebook, or are not friends on me on facebook (how sad!) have been complaining that they don't get to see any pictures of Ethiopia! I am rectifying that right now, by attempting to link directly through blogger 2 links to the albums of me and Paul in Lalibela. Here is some story as well, though I think in the case of this particular trip, the pictures tell 1000 words.


Lalibela is Ethiopia's second most sacred place, a area once known as "New Jerusalem" King Lalibela had visit had visited Jerusalem in the 12/13th century and wanted to build a sacred city in his own country, filled with churches and a site for pilgrimages. What he created was truly amazing. Carved out of rock, many of the churches are monolithic meaning they were all carved out of one slab, directly out of the mountain. At each site (there are 13 of King Lailibea's churches) Paul our tour guide Indy and I slipped off our shoes and entered the cold dark churches that are still standing after 700 years. Many have paintings of saints (St. George is a favorite here) or Mary and Jesus painted on the wall. Its hard to explain in words, but after having seen more churches than I can ever count in Europe, this was a totally different experience. In a way they seem more like the Buddhist Temples in SE Asia, cool and serene, providing a place for reflection. Many of the churches are connected by dark tunnels, one of which is was possible to walk through, a disconcerting yet rewarding trip. The first link here is from our first day there, visiting the 13 most famous churches in Lalibela. Take note of the many shots of Bet Gorges (House of St George) the monolithic church cut into the ground shaped as a cross. It was utterly spectacular.

Paul and I explored the grounds of our hotel that evening. Recommended for the restaurant and the views, we weren't disappointed on either front. We walked behind the hotel and managed to catch an amazing sunset through the mountains over the village. The hotel also has an a well known bird garden. Now those of you that know me know I don't really like birds. Actually having grown up near mostly NYC Pigeons and Long Island Seagulls, hate would be a more appropriate word. My love of birds wasn't enhanced at all when one pooped on me outside one of the churches that very afternoon (good luck, Indy assured me, even in Ethiopia). Even still, there was something nice about the happy sounds of what were admit idly very pretty colorful birds at dusk. But this hasn't changed my opinion of birds overall!

The next morning we headed out early to visit yet another rock hewed church, and a monastery, this time in the hills above the village. The 2 hour hike up was tough with the altitude, but amazingly rewarding, when we arrived at the top and got greeted with the view. I won't try to describe it here, but send your attention to the second link, which includes some pictures.

After a delicious lunch and a short break we were off again, this time to Yemrehana Kristos, a church about an hour and a half drive out of town, which predates Lailbela's churches by about 100 years. This was probably my favorite of the churches. We were the only tourists there when we arrived (though we ran into 1 other group when we left) and Indy had to find the priest, and his adorable son, to let us in. This church was built into a rock as well, surrounded by a cave that has protected it for so many centuries. As it is built into a cave it is surrounded by water and wood planks and bamboo make it possible to walk inside. The whole area is again cool and peaceful until you walk to the back and discover the partially mummified corpse of over 10,000 Pilgrims. It was beyond eerie when the priest switched one lamp on and we were greeted with the smiling corpses of these martyrs of 900 years ago, many who are said to have traveled from as far as Israel and Jordan!

Tired and hungry Indy left us back at our hotel for a delicious Ethiopian feast. We left Lalibela by plane early the next morning, tired yet excited to see our puppy and glad we had visited one of Ethiopia's most breathtaking sites. Enjoy the pictures!