This week

It has been a funny week or so. Paul and I have a bunch of big decisions to make, which I will write about when they are made. My time with CARE is wrapping up soon. Everytime I hold a focus group with the domestic workers I come out thinking "that is the saddest one ever". The one I held on Friday certainly made me feel that way.
As I've written about before, I've been meeting with Domestic workers here, to find out more about their needs (an lives). The last few were held at nigh schools, but we wanted to find a way to reach the workers that don't (or can't) go to school. We (mostly my amazing coworker Biniam) managed to get in touch with some brokers and we set up a group. 8 women walked in, all I would learn were 20 and under. 4 had children strapped to their hip. 3 of the others had children at home, watched by a friend or roommate. One more had a child who had died a few months before. The saddness, anger and frustration was palpable in the room. I won't get into the details, but these were all women who had worked as dw at some point in their lives. A few had gotten pregnant while working (2 by their employer, one who had been raped by him) and were than fired. Others had moved on to bar work, where they had gotten boyfriends who paid for their things, but bolted as soon as they got pregnant. They were fired as well. People won't hire domestic workers with children, because it is an almost full time job. The bars won't because of the late nights and small room space provided to live in. So the women are reduced to washing clothes, one household will pay them 50 birr/month to wash their clothing. That is just about 3 dollars, or what Paul and I paid for a pizza last night. Rent, most said is 250 birr a month, split with a roomamte. That is before the costs for their kids, many who despondently shared with us that they want to put up for adoption. As one woman put it "I don't want my mistakes to hurt my daughter".
The kids were all adorabe, though I resisted adopting them on the spot. I commented, as I was thanking them, that their children were all so quite and well behaved, nothing like American children. "That" on woman told me "is because they are poor children. They know not to make noise, because there is nothing to ask for".
I have 2 weeks here to stress how important this group is. I still want to figure out the best way to reach them. If anyone has any ideas please share them with me.

Paul knows I always feel glum after these sessions, and him and Puddles did the best they could to cheer me up! A Saturday of movies and cuddling on the couch with my 2 roomies was much appreciated!
Even better, we had the chance to escape the city on Sunday. Paul and I, plus our friends Jack and Stacy went horseback riding in the forests outside Addis. It was a beautful trail, and though the weather was odd (the first rain outside of the rainy season) it was cool and crisp, which was nice since all four of us are extremely pale! I ended up with a horse that can be best described as "tempormental and stubborn". While everyone elses horses would go when kicked and stopped when reighned (like trained horses are suposed to do) mine liked to stop at the back of the pack and pick up slowly. He wouldn't move any faster when I kicked him, but he would break into a trot whenever he felt like. It was a bit scary but our tour gudie was great and the horse was never mean, he clearly just didn't feel like working. It was a long day (we began riding at 10 with a lunch break around noon and got back close to 5) and were all sore and tired. It was really great though, and anyone spending time in Addis should definitly check Eqquos Addis out, especially if you need a break from this city. I should have pictures from our ride up in some form too.

Lalibela!

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/Nov62010?authkey=Gv1sRgCODq8-_e5Iiz9QE&feat=directlink



I am trying something new today. People who don't have facebook, or are not friends on me on facebook (how sad!) have been complaining that they don't get to see any pictures of Ethiopia! I am rectifying that right now, by attempting to link directly through blogger 2 links to the albums of me and Paul in Lalibela. Here is some story as well, though I think in the case of this particular trip, the pictures tell 1000 words.


Lalibela is Ethiopia's second most sacred place, a area once known as "New Jerusalem" King Lalibela had visit had visited Jerusalem in the 12/13th century and wanted to build a sacred city in his own country, filled with churches and a site for pilgrimages. What he created was truly amazing. Carved out of rock, many of the churches are monolithic meaning they were all carved out of one slab, directly out of the mountain. At each site (there are 13 of King Lailibea's churches) Paul our tour guide Indy and I slipped off our shoes and entered the cold dark churches that are still standing after 700 years. Many have paintings of saints (St. George is a favorite here) or Mary and Jesus painted on the wall. Its hard to explain in words, but after having seen more churches than I can ever count in Europe, this was a totally different experience. In a way they seem more like the Buddhist Temples in SE Asia, cool and serene, providing a place for reflection. Many of the churches are connected by dark tunnels, one of which is was possible to walk through, a disconcerting yet rewarding trip. The first link here is from our first day there, visiting the 13 most famous churches in Lalibela. Take note of the many shots of Bet Gorges (House of St George) the monolithic church cut into the ground shaped as a cross. It was utterly spectacular.

Paul and I explored the grounds of our hotel that evening. Recommended for the restaurant and the views, we weren't disappointed on either front. We walked behind the hotel and managed to catch an amazing sunset through the mountains over the village. The hotel also has an a well known bird garden. Now those of you that know me know I don't really like birds. Actually having grown up near mostly NYC Pigeons and Long Island Seagulls, hate would be a more appropriate word. My love of birds wasn't enhanced at all when one pooped on me outside one of the churches that very afternoon (good luck, Indy assured me, even in Ethiopia). Even still, there was something nice about the happy sounds of what were admit idly very pretty colorful birds at dusk. But this hasn't changed my opinion of birds overall!

The next morning we headed out early to visit yet another rock hewed church, and a monastery, this time in the hills above the village. The 2 hour hike up was tough with the altitude, but amazingly rewarding, when we arrived at the top and got greeted with the view. I won't try to describe it here, but send your attention to the second link, which includes some pictures.

After a delicious lunch and a short break we were off again, this time to Yemrehana Kristos, a church about an hour and a half drive out of town, which predates Lailbela's churches by about 100 years. This was probably my favorite of the churches. We were the only tourists there when we arrived (though we ran into 1 other group when we left) and Indy had to find the priest, and his adorable son, to let us in. This church was built into a rock as well, surrounded by a cave that has protected it for so many centuries. As it is built into a cave it is surrounded by water and wood planks and bamboo make it possible to walk inside. The whole area is again cool and peaceful until you walk to the back and discover the partially mummified corpse of over 10,000 Pilgrims. It was beyond eerie when the priest switched one lamp on and we were greeted with the smiling corpses of these martyrs of 900 years ago, many who are said to have traveled from as far as Israel and Jordan!

Tired and hungry Indy left us back at our hotel for a delicious Ethiopian feast. We left Lalibela by plane early the next morning, tired yet excited to see our puppy and glad we had visited one of Ethiopia's most breathtaking sites. Enjoy the pictures!

2 Causes

Many of you have asked how you can help the people of Ethiopia. Those who haven’t asked, well I am sure you were wondering and haven’t gotten around to it yet. Even if you are not curious, please read on, this entry is full of important stuff.

I visited the Hamlin Fistula Hospital today. Most of you who have ever spent time with me know what a fistula is, but in case you don’t here is a brief explanation. Here in Ethiopia, and in much of the developing world, women often do not have access to, or can’t afford, to give birth with a doctor or trained health worker. This can result in a variety of horrible effects, including death due to hemorrhaging or infection. It can also lead to prolonged birth, lasting for days, and sometimes up to a week. The baby almost always dies and while the labor continues the womb pushes on the bladder or bowels, and can often cause tearing. This hole is known as a fistula, and it causes incontinence, with the woman unable to control her urine or feces. If this weren’t bad enough it is accompanied by a horrible spell, which often leads to women being shunned by their families and communities, forced to live in isolation in the edges of villages. Women often develop physical disabilities due to lack of movement or drop foot. This is where the Fistula hospital comes in. A simple surgery is all that is needed to fix the fistula, but it is something most women in Ethiopia can’t afford. The hospital offers it for free, allowing women to stay for free while they receive the surgery and recover, and even longer if they need more than one surgery. All they ask is that they tell others about the hospital, and they give birth to any further children there, with a trained doctor.

The place is amazing. I’ve heard about it: in school, from Nicholas Kristoff and Oprah (who is a major donor) and it was amazing to see in person. Its set on quite land filled with flowers, with different buildings housing pre-op, surgery, recovery, maternity as well as a school, a physical therapy center and a management of incontinence center (Oprah’s building). While beautiful, the smell is overwhelming and it is still stuck in my nasal memory. While the place is well funded, there are so many women in need of the surgery they are always in need of more. If you are interested in donating, or learning more, check out the website or the website for the fistula foundation which contributes to the hospital here: http://www.hamlinfistula.org.au/ as well as several other equally amazing, but less known ones. http://www.fistulafoundation.org/ . Even better, the Gold’s are sending me a package soon, to contain a dog crate and candy for a starving Canadian-American couple- but it can be filled with more. If you would like to send something to help the women out you can email me and I can give you the address in the U.S. to send it to. What is most in need is baby clothing, as most people don’t realize there is a birthing center. All women’s clothing, including stockings, would be welcome. If, just by chance, there are any super knitters out there, the women knit, so if you have any leftover “stash” please send that along. And I think a baby hat or sweater could be a great activity for a national knitting convention!

Wait, there is more. As I’ve mentioned before, one of the big projects I am working on here is research on the domestic workers. They are an extremely vulnerable and isolated group, often getting paid nothing or next to nothing (i.e. just about slaves) and are usually from rural areas and know no one in Addis. I’ve held several focus group discussions at some night schools that target domestic workers, and the findings have thus far been heartbreaking. Without going into to much detail, several have faced attempted rape by employers, sons of employers or friends of employers. They have to keep working for these people, as they have nowhere else to go. Two of the participants in my group last night were TWELVE! I just kept thinking when I was 12 my biggest concerns were the Kate Spade backpack I wanted and to not wanting to go to Hebrew school anymore, and here were these girls, forced to work in strangers homes for little or no money! Most came to Addis to escape early marriage, or because they were told they could continue school! Once they arrive they find they must work, for relatives or through brokers. And the girls I’ve spoken to may be considered “lucky” because their employers let them attend night school. Many other employers don’t. A coworker and myself have made this cause a top priority, though we aren’t sure just what to do yet. If you have any ideas please send them along. For the time being, there is a discussion of teaming with some local women’s shelters, to provide a safe space for these women (or in many cases girls) who have nowhere else to go. If you do send me women’s clothes, and the shelter, even our own, or others, is happening, I may donate some to that. If you have a preference, please indicate it. And please look forward to a further call for donations to this cause once we figure out exactly what we will be doing (around the holidays, perhaps).

I know it is rude and a bit pushy but so little goes so far here. Its something that we all forget (I do it at home, and even here), caught up in the day to day stresses of life. Its incredible that used clothing or a few dollars could have such value here. Please help me add to that value.

Eating in Ethiopia

When I say "Ethiopia" and "food" to most people I tend to get one of two responses. "I'm so jealous" or something akin to "there's food in Ethiopia?". The latter is of course wit inspired by the major famines people associate (somewhat accurately) with much of the country's recent history, made even more famous by South Park's Ethernopian, Starvin Marvin. Fortunately for those living in food scarce resources, this has been a "great rainy season" (maybe not to my shoes) and the countryside is remarkably green and lush!

The jealousy over the amazing food I am eating is a bit more accurate Ethiopian food really is unique and delicious! For those who have never had the pleasure of trying it, I recommend you do so already. If you are in any major city, odds are there is at least one restaurant. And if you aren't in a major city, well go to one (I recommend NY or DC).

The staple of any Ethiopian meal in injera a spongy pancake bread that is almost impossible to describe in words. Injera is part of every Ethiopian meal, and many Ethiopians I have met swear they can't eat any food (including pasta) without it. Injera is used to scoop up wot, the stew style foods of Ethiopia. Wots can consist of lentils, chickpeas, spinach, lamb, beef, chicken, etc. Traditionally, several people sit over a large plate of injera and wot, and use there hands to scoop up the food. This allows me to try many different dishes, a process made easier since I am no longer veggie (and I am very much no longer veggie, to Paul's delight). I've gotten better at not ending a meal covered in wat, and I've learned the name of some of my favorite foods. There is also great fresh fruit and fruit shakes are a favorite treat here. An avocado and papaya shake, so think you need to consume it with a spoon, is a great way to start a day!


Why Injera and wot is good enough I could live on it, its not the only option, by any stretch! Addis is an extremely international city, and with that comes international cuisine. By far the most common is Italian food. The Italians occupied Ethiopia in the 1930s and 40s, and though they were triumphantly expelled, several great influences lived on. There is terrific Italian food here, and as a New Yorker I don't say that lightly. There is even Pizza that I will (happily) eat! If pizza and linguine and brushetta wasn't enough, there are several Chinese restaurants around town. There is also Korean, Tex-Mex (better than I expected, though in no way rivaling the nacho standards set by both Darcy and Danny) and even a Thai place! We tried the Thai place and were pleasantly surprised, a great sign since Paul and I are serious Thai food snobs!

Ok, now it is time to eat lunch!

Doing good?

My sister Jen, an amazing girl, recently completed a one year Americorps contract, at an elementary school in New Orleans. Back home on Long Island, she is faced with the current slim job pickings in NYC. Recently she emailed me, asking what I would think about her "selling her soul to the man at an evil corporate job" sine there are very few non-profit jobs where she would have the opportunity to "do good". I promptly wrote her back, telling her, that in my opinion, what you do should in no way define who you are. We both have plenty of friends and family in the private sector who are "good people", this has to do with their values, not where they work. I am lucky enough to have been able to work in the field of my choice thanks in part to support from my father, who works in business. (Thanks Dad!)

This got me thinking though, what does it mean to "do good". Its a question I am faced with on a daily basis here. As a white person, it is assumed I am rich (and even though I am surviving on a small grant here, compared to most Ethiopians, I am). This means, as I have mentioned before, the appearance of beggars on almost every walk outside. How one deals with beggars seems to be a personal choice. Some people I know give small change when they have it, knowing that a 1/2 bihr (with 16 bihr=1 dollar) has far more worth to a beggar than to them self. Paul never gives them anything. He believes that this encourages further begging, and dissuades people from seeking other employment. I am more a believer in giving food, feeling that it can't be misused. But I don't give to anyone. As heartbreaking as the kids in Addis are, I don't like to encourage them running up to ferenji in packs, demanding "one bihr". So I tend to give to kids on their own, or more often to mothers with small children. They seem to me the most destitute. Paul and I discuss this a great deal as we walk the streets of Addis. His way allows him never having to make a decision in who is "most in need" but it doesn't leave him feeling "good". Mine does, but usually not for long. Even if I give a kilo of bananas away, half a block later I am likely to run in to a mother and child sleeping on the street, with nothing left to give them. And have I done good? If I feel good doing it, does it still count as "doing good"?

So what is good? I great thing about Addis is the inexpensive (by American standards) spa services, and I recently indulged in a 1 hour Swedish massage that cost me 10 dollars U.S. ! I walked out feeling great, but fell asleep thinking of the implications of those 10 dollars. It seemed to me that I was supporting the local economy, by paying the salary of at least one person working at the spa. But who knows how that dollar could have been better spent. Is it ok because I work at a nonprofit, but it wouldn't be if I worked for a private sector company here? Is it over indulgent to pay for a massage here, when others have so little? Or is it helpful to support local industry?

This brings me back to my sister and family. I believe that Jen and I were raised with great values (thanks to the aforementioned dad and an equally amazing mom), even though we were exposed to some less than stellar ones on a daily basis during our upbringing on Long Island. And I think that is how you become "good" It has nothing to do with your profession or where you work. There are plenty of snobby NGO workers here, and plenty of kind people working in the private sector in the U.S. It has to do with who you are. How you treat others and what you value. Do you drive a nice car because you like having a nice car? Or because you think that car makes you a better person than others? We like nice things in the Gold family (especially spa massages) but we know that those nice things are just things, at that those things don't define us. I try to take the values I grew up with with me here. The belief in the importance of giving, but also in making yourself happy. And that, at least to me, may be the best way to "do good"

Bahir Dar 2- The Vacation

After a week of field work, which I've already mentioned was extremely draining, Friday night I fell asleep by 8, surrounded by mosquito net, covered in deet. Addis is so elevated and cool that there is little need for mosquito protection, but Bahir Dar, its low altitude and lakeside location, demands malaria prophylaxis, mosquito nets, and lots and lots of deet. But anyone who has ever traveled with me in a tropical environment knows that even if I bathe in deet I still wake up with numerous bites! This time was no exception, so I am happy I had remembered to start my doxy regime, a malaria prophylaxis. Of course Doxy makes you sensitive to the sun. And anyone who has ever met me (or Paul) knows our skins aren't exactly tough in the sun to begin with. Therefore we caused quite a sight at breakfast Saturday morning, the odd ferenji covering ourselves in SPF 50 and deet! Feeling protected we were ready to start our day.

Bahir Dar, as I've mentioned, is located around Lake Taneh the third largest lake in Africa. It is also the source of the Blue Nile! We spent Saturday visiting the falls in a village about an hour away from Bahir Dar. Instead of springing the 100 bihr to rent a car to take us there Paul decided I needed the "African bus experience". 5 minutes later, as we sat in the last row of what was already proving to be a bumpy bus ride, after already been asked for money by no less than 6 people Paul couldn't remember why this experience was so needed! While we were shouted at (and in one case grabbed at) at every village we stopped in, we eventually made it to the falls, which proved to be worth the long journey. The hike was well worth the trip and sore backside. Being the end of the rainy season the falls were running at full force. The foliage was green and clean, and after a week of being shuttled from one NGO to another it felt great to be outside and moving around.Plus the money saved on the journey allowed me to purchase a scarf! I've posted pictures of our hike on facebook, and will try to find a way to get them here as well.

Saturday we visited the island monasteries that dot the lake outside the city. Ethiopian is about 60% Eastern Orthodox Christian, and the places of prayer are very different than churches I've seen in the west. The monasteries dated from the 13th-16th century, and were remarkably well preserved. Many housed books from the same period, in perfect condition thanks to the fact they were printed on goatskin. Painted stories line the walls in vibrant colors. One monastery was male only, but I ended up getting to visit the new "woman's museum" with a well informed tour guide. Most of the paintings there featured old testament stories, and we ended up discussing EOC similarities with Judaism, or which there are many! Paul discovered a menorah at the same monastery, proving I've had some influence on him.

Our boat drive took us back to the city in time to escape a torrential downpour. While the rainy season was coming to a close, it seemed the weather wanted a grand finale, and we were treated to some of the most amazing storms I've ever seen in my life! The evening before we witnessed what appeared to be 2 converging thunderstorms, which was a delight to see, until we realized that the rain was seeping in through the balcony window onto our floor! Apparently our very nice guest house room was no competition for Africa's rain! The storm Sunday was less severe and we were able to make it back to a cafe in time for lunch and Meskel!

Meskel is an Ethiopian Greek Orthodox holiday commemorating the finding of the true cross here. It is celebrated with large cross-topped bonfires, parades, singing, dancing and fireworks. The party lasted all night. I slept soundly thought it, my ability to sleep through almost anything is a great blessing in the developing world. Paul, not blessed in this regard, reported that there was singing and firecrackers till about 5 am!

We returned to Addis the next morning, the 45 minute Ethiopian Airs flight a great improvement over the nine hour car ride I had taken there. We were greeted by a very cheerful and hyper puddles puppy! I apologize for the length of this entry, I blame it on my failure to blog the journey for over a week. I promise more concise entries soon.

As I haven't found any other way to post pictures (besides facebook) here are a few linked http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/SouthGondarFieldVisitAndBahirDar?authkey=Gv1sRgCPmoq-6WjsiZHw# I am still working on it.....

Field Visit 3

left town of Debre Tarbor early Thursday morning, after waking to find the electricity was back just in time for me to leave. The drive back to Bahir Dar was once again beautiful. It was a market day so there were even more people than the drive there, something I hadn't thought would be possible. I spent most of the drive chatting with CARE's driver while taking high-speed photos from the window.
I arrived in Bahir Dar and was happy with what I saw. The third largest city in the country is known as "Ethiopia's Riviera". While I probably wouldn't go that far, there is no denying the city's charm. With palm trees lining wide streets, the areas slow pace seemed like a welcome improvement on Addis Ababa. And the presence of many restaurants, bars and fruit shops (as well as electricity) felt a welcome change from Debre Tarbor!

I went immediately to CARE's Bahir Dar office, where I was immediately whisked visit some of our field partners. We happened to arrive during a woman's group meeting, and although it wasn't our target demographic, I did a quick focus group discussion to find out a bit more about life in the city. The women were friendly and spunky, chiding me for not being married (so old at 26) and encouraging me to tell my friends and family in the U.S. about life in Ethiopia! Lunch time meant I could check into my hotel, and take a much longed for hot shower! After 4 days without hot water (which for me means not washing my hair) I was wishing I had taken up my bosses offer to get my hair braided! Feeling refreshed (and well nourished thanks to food and a machiato at the hotel restaurant) I continued with more partner visits in the afternoon.

Five o'clock finally arrived, which meant Paul arrived in Bahir Dar! Since the upcoming weekend was 3 days, he decided to meet me and spend it at some of the beautiful sites Bahir Dar has to offer. Tales (and pictures) from this trip will arrive in my next entry.

Friday meant one more day of FGD and interviews. I spent the morning with an amazing group of "youth" (which is defined here as 15-29) who run an anti-AIDS alliance in one of the poorest slums of the city. I met with founders and members of the group, all who were about my age. I was awed and inspired by their dedication to their community, even when it means they often risk stigma and discrimination themselves. Most are college students who managed to make it that far even though they all grew up in poverty, in the very same slums. While they pursued careers in IT, pharmaceuticals as well as other income activities, they spend their free time educating the community about HIV. Commercial Sex Work (CSW) is common in the area, and they run activities to reduce the stigma of buying and using condoms. They also create programs to allow people to talk about what they know about HIV, which allows for misconceptions to be acknowledged and corrected.

One of the things I was tasked with doing on this trip was some "positive case studies" of urban female youth. One girl in the group was a founder and clearly a great leader. I took her aside after the group and asked if she minded if I told her life story. She agreed, and began to tell me how her mother highhandedly raised 5 daughters in the same slum we were currently sitting. I won't tell her whole story here, but at one point she broke down into tears, and I felt horrible for asking her to share such an upsetting tale. But at the end she thanked me, because she is happy more people will know of her mother's strength and dedication. Currently she is in college, dating a boy who cares and respects her, and is "very grateful and happy" with her life. I was honored to be able to hear her story.

The day winded down with visits to a few more neighborhood groups. The visits were a great learning experience but the trip was amazingly draining! I met Paul for another amazing fruit juice, exhausted but excited for our 3 day weekend trip!

Field Visit 2

I am in the midst of a field visit, as I think I noted in my last post. We are in the town of, well to be honest I was told the name of the town once and I don’t remember it. All I know is for the first time in my life I am somewhere that isn’t listed in a lonely planet! I get looks walking down the street from more than just the little kids. This is the only tiem outside of 2 weeks spent in Burma that I get consistant expressions of surprise from the locals!
It’s a pretty town that is growing rapidly. Like most of Ethiopia, rural to urban migration is a major trend, and this town is seen as a jumping off point for further migration. Which actually fits in very nicely with the work I am doing. While my co-workers are here for a training I was brought along to speak to some of the local NGOs/CBOs that are based here, and Bahir Dar, a larger city I will be visiting tomorrow. While my program will be focusing on urban female youth (or UFY in this industry that LOVES acronymns) I belive it is impossible to look at the urban without thinking about the rural, since the majority of the poor urban population are migrants. So it was time to find out more.
One sub-group that I personally pushed for the program to target is trafficked girls. Trafficking is an issue I first got interested in while I was in South East Asia, where the problem is extremely prevelant. While it is not a common here, and it takes on different forms, it is still a major issue that seriously harms young women. So we arranged for me to visit Chad-et, a local NGO that provides services to prevent trafficking. The organization looks for girls that are vulnerable for trafficking and prevents it by offering education and alternative incomes. Additionally, they provide a safe-house for up to 32 girls who they directly stop from falling into the hands of traffickers.
There were no girls when I visited. Being the end of the rainy season meant most people were busy at home. After Christmas, I was told, was when trafficking tends to be highest, and the shelter is often full. Personally I was very impressed by Chalet’s services. It seems their projects do a great job at targeting girl’s individual needs and vulnerabilities. I hope I have the chance to work with them again in the future.
I spent the afternoon leaving town, checking out a women’s group CARE’s South Gondar office runs. The group meets for a week for training and discussion in life skills and empowerment. The women were kind enough to allow me to interrupt their session to speak to them and arrange a focus group study with a few of them. I had only been given about 20 minutes warning that a focus group could be arranged, so the entire thing was pretty improprtu. Overall, I was proud of my own ability to think on my feet and create questions and discussion that were engaging and informative. The information will be useful for future programming.

I’m struck by the differences in rural and urban poverty. While both are severe here, they seem to be very different. Seeing malnourished children (or adults) is less common, though not un heard of, in Addis. Here is seems more common. On the other hand, there is no begging here. I’ve only had one person say “give me money” in the past 3 days, something that usually happens at least half a dozen times on any given walk through Addis. Additionally, I can’t help thinking that people look happier here. Perhaps it is just that here I am viewing people walking to and from the town, likely selling goods, but I also think it may have to do with being near family and friends. When people migrate to urban areas they are also alone. Unlike someone as lucky as me, blessed with skype and email and facebook, as well as a network of friends and friends of friends throughout the world, youth often arrive knowing no one and being unable to reach those they left behind. A study I recently read found almost 60% of migrant girls report having NO friends! For some reason, of all the things I’ve read that might have been the saddest. And I think I may have written about it before, but it feels striking again here, as the poverty people are in is more communal. At the same time, I know there are horrible things I don’t see. Child marriage is still very common here. 2 of the 7 girls I spoke to yesterday (the oldest of whom was 27) reported being married by age 10. 5 had had children before the age of 20! These are some of the things youth are trying to escape by running to the cities. But comparing poverty seems like a fruitless exercise anyway. Best to once again be grateful for the things in my life, and continue working to bring people out of poverty here.

Field Visit 1

I am going to be in the field with CARE for the week. I just arrived in South Ghodnar, an area North of Addis Ababa, where CARE has a field office. It took about 12 hours by car (4x4) to get here, and although the trip was long with no break for about 8 hours between breakfast and lunch, it was beautiful. Every time I started to feel cranky about the fact that I was stuck in the middle seat I would take a look outside and notice people walking down the road with no shoes on. It shut my brain up fast! There are people everywhere, it seems, in Ethiopia. Only 45 minutes out of the city, the area becomes very rural, and we passed mud huts with no electricity. The flow of people, however, didn't seize. People herding cows and sheep. People carrying goods to/from markets. People (mostly children) selling produce and crafts. If there was any question about this country's high population and fertility rates (there wasn't), this trip erased it for me!

The scenery was beautiful. This "great" rainy season has been beneficial to the rural area, even if it means Paul and I have to swim the road our house is on! Everything is green and lush, and besides for the hail storm that we drove through, sunny. We passed three beautiful waterfalls as well as drove over the blue nile.

I will be here till Wednesday, when I will be going to the city of Bahir Dar for a few days. I will surely have more to tell soon. Additionally, I plan to have pictures and will find a way to post them to my blog soon.

Additionally, I know there has been a request for pictures of Puddles, I have them and will post those soon too!

Jennifer in New York

Just because my own work and studies tends to take me to the developing world doesn't mean I am not aware of the serious economic and social issues that individuals in the U.S. face every day. In fact, my first introduction to public health was working with Harlem RBI. U.S. urban public schools often have upwards of 40 children in one class with one teacher! New supplies are limited, buildings are often old and unsafe, playgrounds non-existent and teachers face the additional challenges of working with students who often have stresses at home. With that in mind I commend my amazing sister Jennifer Gold and all the great work she does for students facing the serious challenges and disadvantages of urban public schools in the U.S.
For those of you that don't know, Jen just finished an amazing stint working at a Langston Hughes Academy in New Orleans, the first Charter elementary school to open after Katrina! She is back in NY now, but her dedication to urban students hasn't waned.
This she is going to be participating in NYCARES Day 2010, working to revitalizing public schools in NY. I've copied her email below all about it, but I have to say its a great cause. Besides the work she and her team will be doing that day, the money she and her group are raising are going to the Nicole Schiffman Foundation, a great foundation, in honor of a wonderful girl the world lost far too soon.
Here is more information on NY Cares day, as well as a link to donate to this wonderful cause.
NY Cares Day is a day of service to revitalize public schools in all 5 boroughs. Along with 7,000 other volunteers, we will be painting hundreds of colorful murals, adding bright new line games to playgrounds, organizing school libraries, planting flowers, and more to create inspiring learning environments.
Like a walkathon, we are asking for your support by making a donation to New York Cares in honor of our service.
Every dollar donated to New York Cares amounts to $6 in service to the community. By raising $100 dollars, we can help:
· Provide 10 low-income students with one-on-one SAT tutoring for one year
· Prepare and serve 1,800 meals to the hungry and homebound.
· Grant books and supplies to 15 children in an Early Morning Reading program
· Buy children art supplies for a semester-long Art Explores programs
· Give 12 adult immigrants study materials to prepare for the U.S. Citizenship exam.
Donations are greatly appreciated and can be made by following the link below:
http://www.newyorkcaresday.org/nicoleschiffmanfoundation

Thanks for your generosity!

Happy New Year ^2

I wrote this post last Wednesday, the 8th, but this is the first time I seem to be able to upload it. I am not going to waste any more rare internet time editing it but know 2 important updates. Paul and I found a house and it looks like we may keep Puddles (see below).

I neglected a very important "number" in my last post!
Number of NEW YEARS I have this week: 2.

Yep- today marks the beginning of Rosh Hasana, the Jewish New Year
(Shanah Tova!). And Saturday, Sept. 11 is the Ethiopian New Year, bringing
in the year 2003! Ethiopians follow and Orthodox Christian calender, and
are 7 years behind and have 13 months.
Thursday, Friday or Saturday (depending a bit on lunar views) will also be
Eid, the end of the Muslim holiday of Ramadan! All this makes for a 4 day
weekend, plus lots of goats and ch
If that wasn't exciting enough......I've (temporarily) rescued and adopted a
puppy. I found her on the street a few days ago and she was in the same
place the following days. She is very young (I'm guessing just a few
months) and she kept running into the street and was hiding under a car.
Ethiopians treat dogs much better than some other countries I've been to,
but life on the street is still not easy for a puppy here (nor a person, as
I've written about before, and surely will again). Concerned, I got the
number of a vet, who came right over. He told me it was "going to cost me"
to get all the shots for her, the total was about U.S. $40! Having done it,
we discussed next steps, and the Dr. recommended getting her to a safer
place, because even with all the shots she is tiny, underfed and at risk of
other dogs, mean kids and cars. So I took her home!

I promised Paul I wouldn't get attached because I don't think I can keep
her, but I've broken that promise about a million times! She now runs out
to the gate to greet me, and waits at the door in the morning. She still
seems amazed when I bring her food twice a day! I am in the process of
finding her a home, hopefully someone that will let me come play with her
all the time!

CARE has some big arrivals today: The CEO of the National program, Helene
Gayle as well as Jenna Bush, Christy Turlington and 2 congress people (who I
have yet to hear the names of)! I won't get to be meeting anyone but Helene
Gayle (which is pretty awesome in its own right- google her!) but its
exciting to know that such people, who are influential in policy and
advocacy, are coming here to see our work.

And of course, matching all that, Paul arrives tonight as well! :)

Happy New Year (x2) everyone!!!!

AA by the Numbers

I wrote the last post a few days ago and I still have a few more minutes to kill of free internet so here are some fast facts about my life in Addis.

# of days here:16
# of times I've been caught in the rain: 1
# of times the currency conversion has changed:1. In my favor, and by 17%. Things are even cheaper than before, though this will probably be very bad for the economy.
# of marriage proposals I've received walking down the street: too many to count
# of days till Paul gets here: 3, hopefully putting a stop to the street side proposals and cat calls
# of international NGOs I pass on the way to work at my International NGO: at least 10
# of children adopted: zero (so far)
# of puppies adopted:zero, though I came real close today
# of kilometers I ran this morning: 5. The gyms are filled with runners, many who must by Olympians! It gets me competitive!
# of times I've gotten lost: Just twice. I am not sure if this means I have a great sense of direction, or I just haven't been exploring enough
# of cups of coffee I now drink a day. At least one, usually 2, during the week! I've never been a coffee drinking, and several of you have stayed over my apt. complaining about my lack of coffee. But the coffee here is so good (and so strong) that I just can't turn it down. I am trying my best to not drink it in the morning, to avoid an addiction. I've cracked several times, and am also fearful I've developed a 2:30 addiction
# of field visits: 0, but a few are in the works
# of times I've moved :1, and another one is is store when Paul gets here
# of times I've gotten belly sick :0, the DC burgers clearly prepared my stomach!

There are surely more numbers but thats it for now.

Working in AA

People keep asking me what exactly I am doing in Ethiopia. Well besides for dodging street children, getting my butt kicked by insane Ethiopian trainers at the gym, eating lots of yummy stews scooped with injerna, avoiding the daily rains and getting frustrated with finicky internet, I am also interning with CARE Ethiopia's Resource Poor Urban Female Youth Program Design Team. Now for those of you that didn't go to Emory (CARE is based in ATL and speakers from the organization showed up everywhere) CARE is one of the oldest NGOs in the U.S. Originally created after World War 2 "Cooperative for American Remittances to Europe" the organization now works throughout the world. In Ethiopia CARE focuses on women's issues including health, economic empowerment, rights and livelihoods. Currently CARE is redesigning their programs to become more far reaching and long lasting, that's where I come in.
As part of the program design team I am researching what projects currently exist and where the gaps are. I am also engaged in "partner mapping" trying to find information on all the organizations based in Ethiopia who we may be able to partner with. This is no easy task, as most don't have websites or reliable contact information, and I've found myself on the phone or visiting in person with resources. I am also going to be checking out many of our sites first hand, in order to put together some Concept Notes. I am really looking forward to getting to "the field". My first stop will probably be right here in Addis, where I will leave the expat enclave of the Bole neighborhood to venture to some of the slums near Mercato (and elsewhere) where CARE does most of its work here. I will be travelling with the Urban HIV program. Additionally, I was just informed that in a few weeks a team of us will be traveling to South Ghondar (a rural area up North) and Bahir Dar, a city by one of the large Lakes, also in the North, to see some of the adolescent programs occurring there. I am really looking forward to these trips.
I can already say I've learned a great deal about working with an International Organization overseas, though I don't think I've been here long enough to truly take in all I've absorbed. I am off to meet some friends for dinner (Korean food!) but look forward to some future updates real soon .

A Street Tour of AA

I intended to write about my work today, what I’m doing. But on my walk over to get my internet “fixed” (ok it turns out I had no money on my mobile modem) I got bombarded by street children. Like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Even if you’ve never met me (and cool, that means I have followers) you should be able to tell from this blog that I like kids and tend to be compassionate to anything that affects their livelihood. I walked past numerous kids having to shake my head no, when I passed a mother and young daughter just sitting on the street. Neither asked me for anything, the little girl just looked at me and sort of reached out her hand. Spotting a nearby fruit stand I went to buy some bananas for her. Apparently I had been spotted, because in the 15 second interaction of picking out bananas I was surrounded by about 15 kids, many who were bigger than me, jostling for food. Someone had once warned me I would grow to hate the street kids here. I thought they were just jaded and cynical. While I don’t think I will ever hate these children that are looking for someone to eat, a walk down the street here does make it easy to loose a feeling of compassion and replace it with annoyance. I’m not sure what the answer to this conundrum is. I don’t think I can turn a blind eye to poverty, if I could I probably wouldn’t be here. At the same time, I really don’t like being bombarded. I ended up feeling horrible the other day. I didn’t have enough to give everyone. Plus I felt as though I was “expected” to give, which didn’t really feel right.

It’s odd, because in contrast to all this poverty is a great deal of wealth. I’ve mentioned it before, but I can’t help but pointing out the contrasts yet again. The street child incident was on the way to get a wireless modem fixed, a contrast if I ever saw one. Perhaps even more notable was a drive down EU road. The street is lined with large hotels, but by night is also lined by sex workers, waiting for potential customers. I’ve seen the sex work industry before, most notably in Thailand, and it never seizes to upset me. This felt even sadder. The women seemed so exposed, waiting on the streets with no protection at all. And speaking of protection, in a country and city with such high AIDS rates, I can only hope that condoms are widely distributed and used. But based on what I’ve read and learned, I fear this isn’t true. As I drove by, I realized all the young girls were working a job that is almost inevitably a death sentence a fact that later brought me to tears in the solitude of my room. The next day I found myself at a yoga class. Yes, Addis has MULTIPLE yoga offerings, a treat that delighted me when I first heard. This studio was located on the same road I had driven down the night before, just up the block. As the sun set during the practice, I found myself distracted, looking out the window at ever opportunity. How could I be here, enjoying this peaceful practice, when such sadness raged right outside? There doesn’t seem to be a correct answer. I know I could drive myself crazy. And my enjoyment of a yoga class won’t alter the lives of the sex workers I passed. And I know I am doing good work here with CARE. But of all the challenges this city offers, contending with the daily poverty may be the toughest by far.

Just an FYI- My blog seems to be illegal here. I can post on it, but I can’t see it. So if you’ve commented, I haven’t read it. And please, if you want to comment, please message me directly.

The Little Boy and The Luna Bar!

I got the Internet to work on my mobile modem! Hurray!

So two things you need to know about me for this story.

1) I LOVE Ethiopian children! I think Paul's biggest fear regarding Ethiopia is that he will arrive here and find I've already adopted (or otherwise procured) a small family of children. This may be because I've been talking about how cute Ethiopian children are since I've found out I am coming here. And because I keep sending him pictures of Ethiopian kids, many from adoption websites. Or maybe because I keep saying how great it would be to adopt an Ethiopian child. But I digress.....

2) I also LOVE Luna bars. I always have at least one on me! But I didn't bring many here because they tend to melt.

Anyways, in my time wondering the streets so far I've been bombarded by kids asking for money. I know not to give them any, because it just promotes further street begging, and the kids usually don't get to keep the money anyway. In Thailand and while traveling around Asia I used to always try to have some sort of food on me to give the street kids. I plan to do the same here, as well as find the local organization that provides meal tickets that can be bought and given out, but its only day 2! So I've had 2 days of having to say no to kids who beg for money, which is heart breaking in so many ways. Besides just begging, some of the kids here are really aggressive, shouting "give me money" and stopping right in front of me so I have to walk around them. There are no words to explain how difficult it is to know that I can't, no matter how much I want, help each child.

Today was different. While walking home a small boy with the largest smile I've ever seen ran along beside me. He held his hand out and when I shook my head no he just continued to smile and run. I looked for a place to buy fruit or a snack, but we didn't pass anything open on Sunday. This went on for about 5 minutes when I crossed a busy intersection and he didn't follow. He just stopped and continued smiling. It was then that I realized I DID have food with me. My last Luna Bar! As if he knew I was going to crack he looked at me, still grinning, as I walked back to give him the precious Luna Bar. I'm not sure he knew what it was, and he definitely didn't know how stupidly expensive one of those things cost at Whole Foods, but he smiled even wider as he ran away.

The problem always is, you can't help everybody. A few blocks later, I walked past a mother and her small daughter, who was dressed all in pink, also asking for money. Now anyone who knows me knew I was going to be a sucker for this situation, so I went to a nearby kiosk and bought the girl some snacks and some water. Except other children saw me. It was a long, heartbreaking walk home.

I've learned I need to find the organization, Hope Enterprise, that provides meal tickets for foods. I've also been reinvigorated for work tomorrow, as I hope the work I will do will have an impact in reducing the dire poverty, especially for mothers and children. Speaking of work, tomorrow is my first day! There will be lots to tell soon.

Welcome to Ethiopia!

This entry is in two parts, the first from the Frankfurt area on Friday and the second from today, Sunday, in a café with wifi.

Blog August 20, 2010

Frankfurt Airport

I am writing this blurry eyed and a bit disoriented, from the Frankfurt airport, where I have a 4-hour layover. I had intended to sleep through my entire first flight, but my fellow passengers had other ideas. Seated next to 3 loud Spaniards and directly above a horde of giggling French teenagers, I was struck with the observation that as much as everyone complains about rude Americans, my countrymen tend to make good travelers. It is very rarely the loud American chatting loudly on an international flight. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think Americans often do a good job representing themselves on international travels, but we tend to be good on planes. But maybe I am just cranky due to lack of sleep; it wouldn’t be the first time!

I was struck with some serious homesickness, as I lay awake on the plane. I think I am really going to miss my parents and sister, who I only got to spend a few days with over the past few days. All three of them, my parents and JEN, were very supportive and comforting as I prepared to depart! I am lucky to have such an amazing family!

I still have a few hours left of my layover, which I plan to spend on reading about Ethiopia or perhaps napping.

Arrival in Addis

Here I am, almost 48 hours into my time in Ethiopia! A lack of time combined with a lack of Internet access has limited my blog posting, but I’ll write this on Word, with the idea that the Internet will come back in the café I am by the time I am down, or I can post it from work tomorrow.

My second flight was uneventful and much quieter! We landed in Addis just as the sun was setting, and a CARE driver who took me to my guesthouse met me. On the way I got my first views of the city, which seemed lively on a Friday night. I also took in the vast number of people, including children, who seemed to be sleeping on the street.

I had a bit of a culture shock moment on Saturday morning, after having spent the night half awake, due to jetlag. I felt scared and a bit homesick, and considered how long I could stay in my room. The downpour of rain didn’t help my motivation! I soon realized how silly a consideration this would be, and rallied myself to get up at least to purchase a cell phone. This was a good call, because the city was far less scary in reality than it seemed in my head. While the children and other beggars are a bit aggressive, most people are friendly, and I easily made it to the mall to purchase my phone and my (so far ineffective) Internet connector. On my way back I got a bit turned around and asked a British woman for directions. When she heard it was my first day in town she invited me to lunch and an art show with her and a friend. Not knowing many people in the city I of course took her up on her offer, which turned out to be a really great choice. I was taken on a great “welcome” tour of the city, which included great local food, an art show and yummy pastries. I learned where the good bookstores are, as well as supermarkets, cheap DVDS, relatively reliable wifi cafe and other good expat resources. I also have a growing list of things to see again, like the palace located at the top of the city, and many of the East Orthodox Churches that can be found throughout.

Addis is unlike any city I’ve ever been too. There is more (and more disturbing) poverty than anything I’ve before experienced. But there is also a great deal of very wealthy Ethiopians, who don’t seem to mind showing off what they have. And, like almost any other less developed country I’ve been to, there is a huge ex-pat scene. When the sun comes up the air clears, as it has both afternoons and it is clear this is overall a happy, welcoming city. The air is cool and brisk, there is green everywhere and almost everyone is smiling. The food is terrific and very cheap! In the famous words of Annie “I think I’m gunna like it here”

On that cheesy note I see the Internet is working, so I will post this before it is to late!

Greetings from the Vancouver Airport

Odd, you may be thinking. Isn't Emily headed to Africa in just 5 days?! Its true, but that didn't prevent an all to fast visit to my favorite Canadian City (also the only one I've ever been to). As most of you can guess, Paul was in town, having just finished up his stint in Darfur. We spent several lovely days in D.C., seeing many of the city's famous sites, bicycling around and generally having a great farewell to the city. It was a bittersweet farewell. I really had a wonderful summer, I enjoyed and learned a great deal during my internship, and I loved being so close to my best friends for a few months. I am however looking forward to some new adventures ahead!

The short but sweet Vancouver vacation allowed to to be outside for more than 3 hours for the first time in a really long time! Paul and I took advantage of the amazingly crisp and sunny weather bicycling around Stanley Park and Granville Island and enjoying Vancouver's array of food choices! Now is as good a time as any to send a brief but deserved shout out to my wonderful boyfriend! Paul has been there for me through many ups and downs and has managed to shift several factors in his life to be able to join me in Ethiopia this fall! For those of you who have "followed" our relationship, you know we've been long distance for far to long! We are both looking forward to a few months at least where we can be together every day. Paul arrives in the country in early September, and I am sure he will be a figure in many of my updates.

I have a few days of packing/family time ahead. I just learned my amazing wonderful sister (the one and only Jennifer Paige Gold),who has been getting certified to teach yoga, will be home today which is very exciting news. More from Ethiopia soon......

It's That Time Again

I am leaving for Ethiopia in 16 Days! I am not sure what happened to the summer, which I know isn't over just yet, but has seemed to fly by! Anyway, I thought I would take this time to reintroduce my blog (back by popular demand) and let all of you know what's going on. It hasn't really sunk in yet that I have a big upcoming trip, so I am hoping this blog will make it all seem a bit more "real".

On August 19th I will depart from NYC to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia. I've never been to Africa before, and am both really excited and really nervous! I will be interning with CARE, an organization that I've admired since my Emory days (CARE's headquarters are based in ATL). I am going to be working on an urban adolescent health program, doing project design for a program that will be focusing on sexual health, including family planning and HIV/AIDS. For now that's all I really know about my work, I am sure I will have lots more to say soon.

The next few weeks look to be crazy, so this is as good a time as ever to give a shout out to some awesome friends who have made this a truly awesome summer. For the 1st time since 2006 I got to live in the same city and so many of my great Emory friends and I loved (almost) every minute of it. While my liver will surely need detoxing, and its been disheartening to realize so clearly that I can no longer sustain my 21 year old lifestyle, its really been a great summer! The biggest news probably is that I've welcomed meat back into my life, and even though I think my friends joined mostly to watch my stomach explode (it didn't) it was a major milestone.

Paul arrives here on Friday, which of course makes me smile. Some updates about that (NOT what you are thinking) will get their own deserved blog post too.

Also of note, Darcy has generously offered to ghost write my blogs, so while I haven't taken her up on her offer just yet, if you notice a vast improvement in my writing and grammar, it was not a lobotomy!

It's my 2nd to last day of my summer internship here at JSI, so I must go back to work. More to tell real soon!