A Street Tour of AA

I intended to write about my work today, what I’m doing. But on my walk over to get my internet “fixed” (ok it turns out I had no money on my mobile modem) I got bombarded by street children. Like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Even if you’ve never met me (and cool, that means I have followers) you should be able to tell from this blog that I like kids and tend to be compassionate to anything that affects their livelihood. I walked past numerous kids having to shake my head no, when I passed a mother and young daughter just sitting on the street. Neither asked me for anything, the little girl just looked at me and sort of reached out her hand. Spotting a nearby fruit stand I went to buy some bananas for her. Apparently I had been spotted, because in the 15 second interaction of picking out bananas I was surrounded by about 15 kids, many who were bigger than me, jostling for food. Someone had once warned me I would grow to hate the street kids here. I thought they were just jaded and cynical. While I don’t think I will ever hate these children that are looking for someone to eat, a walk down the street here does make it easy to loose a feeling of compassion and replace it with annoyance. I’m not sure what the answer to this conundrum is. I don’t think I can turn a blind eye to poverty, if I could I probably wouldn’t be here. At the same time, I really don’t like being bombarded. I ended up feeling horrible the other day. I didn’t have enough to give everyone. Plus I felt as though I was “expected” to give, which didn’t really feel right.

It’s odd, because in contrast to all this poverty is a great deal of wealth. I’ve mentioned it before, but I can’t help but pointing out the contrasts yet again. The street child incident was on the way to get a wireless modem fixed, a contrast if I ever saw one. Perhaps even more notable was a drive down EU road. The street is lined with large hotels, but by night is also lined by sex workers, waiting for potential customers. I’ve seen the sex work industry before, most notably in Thailand, and it never seizes to upset me. This felt even sadder. The women seemed so exposed, waiting on the streets with no protection at all. And speaking of protection, in a country and city with such high AIDS rates, I can only hope that condoms are widely distributed and used. But based on what I’ve read and learned, I fear this isn’t true. As I drove by, I realized all the young girls were working a job that is almost inevitably a death sentence a fact that later brought me to tears in the solitude of my room. The next day I found myself at a yoga class. Yes, Addis has MULTIPLE yoga offerings, a treat that delighted me when I first heard. This studio was located on the same road I had driven down the night before, just up the block. As the sun set during the practice, I found myself distracted, looking out the window at ever opportunity. How could I be here, enjoying this peaceful practice, when such sadness raged right outside? There doesn’t seem to be a correct answer. I know I could drive myself crazy. And my enjoyment of a yoga class won’t alter the lives of the sex workers I passed. And I know I am doing good work here with CARE. But of all the challenges this city offers, contending with the daily poverty may be the toughest by far.

Just an FYI- My blog seems to be illegal here. I can post on it, but I can’t see it. So if you’ve commented, I haven’t read it. And please, if you want to comment, please message me directly.

The Little Boy and The Luna Bar!

I got the Internet to work on my mobile modem! Hurray!

So two things you need to know about me for this story.

1) I LOVE Ethiopian children! I think Paul's biggest fear regarding Ethiopia is that he will arrive here and find I've already adopted (or otherwise procured) a small family of children. This may be because I've been talking about how cute Ethiopian children are since I've found out I am coming here. And because I keep sending him pictures of Ethiopian kids, many from adoption websites. Or maybe because I keep saying how great it would be to adopt an Ethiopian child. But I digress.....

2) I also LOVE Luna bars. I always have at least one on me! But I didn't bring many here because they tend to melt.

Anyways, in my time wondering the streets so far I've been bombarded by kids asking for money. I know not to give them any, because it just promotes further street begging, and the kids usually don't get to keep the money anyway. In Thailand and while traveling around Asia I used to always try to have some sort of food on me to give the street kids. I plan to do the same here, as well as find the local organization that provides meal tickets that can be bought and given out, but its only day 2! So I've had 2 days of having to say no to kids who beg for money, which is heart breaking in so many ways. Besides just begging, some of the kids here are really aggressive, shouting "give me money" and stopping right in front of me so I have to walk around them. There are no words to explain how difficult it is to know that I can't, no matter how much I want, help each child.

Today was different. While walking home a small boy with the largest smile I've ever seen ran along beside me. He held his hand out and when I shook my head no he just continued to smile and run. I looked for a place to buy fruit or a snack, but we didn't pass anything open on Sunday. This went on for about 5 minutes when I crossed a busy intersection and he didn't follow. He just stopped and continued smiling. It was then that I realized I DID have food with me. My last Luna Bar! As if he knew I was going to crack he looked at me, still grinning, as I walked back to give him the precious Luna Bar. I'm not sure he knew what it was, and he definitely didn't know how stupidly expensive one of those things cost at Whole Foods, but he smiled even wider as he ran away.

The problem always is, you can't help everybody. A few blocks later, I walked past a mother and her small daughter, who was dressed all in pink, also asking for money. Now anyone who knows me knew I was going to be a sucker for this situation, so I went to a nearby kiosk and bought the girl some snacks and some water. Except other children saw me. It was a long, heartbreaking walk home.

I've learned I need to find the organization, Hope Enterprise, that provides meal tickets for foods. I've also been reinvigorated for work tomorrow, as I hope the work I will do will have an impact in reducing the dire poverty, especially for mothers and children. Speaking of work, tomorrow is my first day! There will be lots to tell soon.

Welcome to Ethiopia!

This entry is in two parts, the first from the Frankfurt area on Friday and the second from today, Sunday, in a café with wifi.

Blog August 20, 2010

Frankfurt Airport

I am writing this blurry eyed and a bit disoriented, from the Frankfurt airport, where I have a 4-hour layover. I had intended to sleep through my entire first flight, but my fellow passengers had other ideas. Seated next to 3 loud Spaniards and directly above a horde of giggling French teenagers, I was struck with the observation that as much as everyone complains about rude Americans, my countrymen tend to make good travelers. It is very rarely the loud American chatting loudly on an international flight. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think Americans often do a good job representing themselves on international travels, but we tend to be good on planes. But maybe I am just cranky due to lack of sleep; it wouldn’t be the first time!

I was struck with some serious homesickness, as I lay awake on the plane. I think I am really going to miss my parents and sister, who I only got to spend a few days with over the past few days. All three of them, my parents and JEN, were very supportive and comforting as I prepared to depart! I am lucky to have such an amazing family!

I still have a few hours left of my layover, which I plan to spend on reading about Ethiopia or perhaps napping.

Arrival in Addis

Here I am, almost 48 hours into my time in Ethiopia! A lack of time combined with a lack of Internet access has limited my blog posting, but I’ll write this on Word, with the idea that the Internet will come back in the café I am by the time I am down, or I can post it from work tomorrow.

My second flight was uneventful and much quieter! We landed in Addis just as the sun was setting, and a CARE driver who took me to my guesthouse met me. On the way I got my first views of the city, which seemed lively on a Friday night. I also took in the vast number of people, including children, who seemed to be sleeping on the street.

I had a bit of a culture shock moment on Saturday morning, after having spent the night half awake, due to jetlag. I felt scared and a bit homesick, and considered how long I could stay in my room. The downpour of rain didn’t help my motivation! I soon realized how silly a consideration this would be, and rallied myself to get up at least to purchase a cell phone. This was a good call, because the city was far less scary in reality than it seemed in my head. While the children and other beggars are a bit aggressive, most people are friendly, and I easily made it to the mall to purchase my phone and my (so far ineffective) Internet connector. On my way back I got a bit turned around and asked a British woman for directions. When she heard it was my first day in town she invited me to lunch and an art show with her and a friend. Not knowing many people in the city I of course took her up on her offer, which turned out to be a really great choice. I was taken on a great “welcome” tour of the city, which included great local food, an art show and yummy pastries. I learned where the good bookstores are, as well as supermarkets, cheap DVDS, relatively reliable wifi cafe and other good expat resources. I also have a growing list of things to see again, like the palace located at the top of the city, and many of the East Orthodox Churches that can be found throughout.

Addis is unlike any city I’ve ever been too. There is more (and more disturbing) poverty than anything I’ve before experienced. But there is also a great deal of very wealthy Ethiopians, who don’t seem to mind showing off what they have. And, like almost any other less developed country I’ve been to, there is a huge ex-pat scene. When the sun comes up the air clears, as it has both afternoons and it is clear this is overall a happy, welcoming city. The air is cool and brisk, there is green everywhere and almost everyone is smiling. The food is terrific and very cheap! In the famous words of Annie “I think I’m gunna like it here”

On that cheesy note I see the Internet is working, so I will post this before it is to late!

Greetings from the Vancouver Airport

Odd, you may be thinking. Isn't Emily headed to Africa in just 5 days?! Its true, but that didn't prevent an all to fast visit to my favorite Canadian City (also the only one I've ever been to). As most of you can guess, Paul was in town, having just finished up his stint in Darfur. We spent several lovely days in D.C., seeing many of the city's famous sites, bicycling around and generally having a great farewell to the city. It was a bittersweet farewell. I really had a wonderful summer, I enjoyed and learned a great deal during my internship, and I loved being so close to my best friends for a few months. I am however looking forward to some new adventures ahead!

The short but sweet Vancouver vacation allowed to to be outside for more than 3 hours for the first time in a really long time! Paul and I took advantage of the amazingly crisp and sunny weather bicycling around Stanley Park and Granville Island and enjoying Vancouver's array of food choices! Now is as good a time as any to send a brief but deserved shout out to my wonderful boyfriend! Paul has been there for me through many ups and downs and has managed to shift several factors in his life to be able to join me in Ethiopia this fall! For those of you who have "followed" our relationship, you know we've been long distance for far to long! We are both looking forward to a few months at least where we can be together every day. Paul arrives in the country in early September, and I am sure he will be a figure in many of my updates.

I have a few days of packing/family time ahead. I just learned my amazing wonderful sister (the one and only Jennifer Paige Gold),who has been getting certified to teach yoga, will be home today which is very exciting news. More from Ethiopia soon......

It's That Time Again

I am leaving for Ethiopia in 16 Days! I am not sure what happened to the summer, which I know isn't over just yet, but has seemed to fly by! Anyway, I thought I would take this time to reintroduce my blog (back by popular demand) and let all of you know what's going on. It hasn't really sunk in yet that I have a big upcoming trip, so I am hoping this blog will make it all seem a bit more "real".

On August 19th I will depart from NYC to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia. I've never been to Africa before, and am both really excited and really nervous! I will be interning with CARE, an organization that I've admired since my Emory days (CARE's headquarters are based in ATL). I am going to be working on an urban adolescent health program, doing project design for a program that will be focusing on sexual health, including family planning and HIV/AIDS. For now that's all I really know about my work, I am sure I will have lots more to say soon.

The next few weeks look to be crazy, so this is as good a time as ever to give a shout out to some awesome friends who have made this a truly awesome summer. For the 1st time since 2006 I got to live in the same city and so many of my great Emory friends and I loved (almost) every minute of it. While my liver will surely need detoxing, and its been disheartening to realize so clearly that I can no longer sustain my 21 year old lifestyle, its really been a great summer! The biggest news probably is that I've welcomed meat back into my life, and even though I think my friends joined mostly to watch my stomach explode (it didn't) it was a major milestone.

Paul arrives here on Friday, which of course makes me smile. Some updates about that (NOT what you are thinking) will get their own deserved blog post too.

Also of note, Darcy has generously offered to ghost write my blogs, so while I haven't taken her up on her offer just yet, if you notice a vast improvement in my writing and grammar, it was not a lobotomy!

It's my 2nd to last day of my summer internship here at JSI, so I must go back to work. More to tell real soon!