Emily in Ethiopia

Reflections 2 Coffee and Tea Time in Ethiopia

2011-03-14T06:34:00.000-07:00

I’ve always been a very strongly avowed anti-coffee person. Unless I was really exhausted (finals week, late night followed by an early morning) I haven’t drank coffee regularly since some time in college. I had two houseguest incidences this year, once with a cranky mom and once with an even crankier best friend, who woke to discover the lack of coffee situation in my home. So all the hype surrounding Ethiopian coffee never really excited me. For those that don’t know, coffee was discovered here and Ethiopians take their coffee VERY seriously. 8 months here and my opinion on coffee has certainly changed, and though I still can wake up without the cup and not want to tear anyones head off, I will miss the beverage here.

Unlike in the U.S., coffee isn’t meant to be drunk on the run, but sat and enjoyed. This dates back to the coffee ceremony, which is a beautiful thing to enjoy at a party or holiday. Coffee beans are rosted over a small fire till they are ready to be seeped in water to make the coffee. Popcorn is passed around to pass the time till the coffee is ready. The spell is lovely, and sometimes incense are burned to add to it. Once the beans are roasted and boiled to perfection, cups and passed around and shared, with generous amounts of sugar, but normally no milk. Ethiopian coffee is extremely strong, and a cup usually has me wired for hours. At most coffee ceremonies I’ve had at least two!

Most days are less coffee ceremony and more macchiato, which is a good thing. I can’t really handle the strong taste without some milk, and this treat that the Ethiopians learned from the Italians is really great. I’ve never been to an Ethiopian office where coffee isn’t immediately offered to me. Here at DKT I am often brought it exactly how I like it (lots of milk, lots of sugar) at exactly 10:15 and offered again in the afternoon . That is usually too much for me, which brings me to another delicious, but more underated, Ethiopian hot beverage, tea.

Most people don’t think of tea when they think of Ethiopia, but it is another welcome treat. Warm and spicy, boiled water is also flavored with cinnamon for an added taste. It is a more calming relaxing way to enjoy a beverage with a coworker and friend, and I often opt for that in the weekends, and most afternoons at work. I seem to be a bit of an anamoly here in Ethiopia, most people are either coffee or tea but I like to limit, while not completely avoiding, caffeine.
There is one other hot beverage, known as Shai, which is half coffee, half tea. Ethiopians like mixing things: coke and ambo (a natural sparkling water), spaghetti and injera. I’ve try Shai once and found it made me even more hyper than regular coffee! As I write this a cup of coffee, with warm milk and an amble helping of sugar, is being placed on my desk. I am off to enjoy but promise future houseguests that from now on I should have some coffee waiting for you!

Reflections 1

2011-03-09T03:13:00.003-08:00

With the countdown on my time here set at 10 days, it seems like I should be doing some reflecting, Mostly though, I am just doing lots of work! I’ve finished up my research (the second trip to Awasa was extremely successful) and I am not using my data to write both a paper for DKT and another for my own thesis. There is always time to procrastinate, and I thought I would use my last few blog entries to write a bit about what I’ll miss and what I won’t. I’d like to say I will post every day for the last 10 I am here, but that seems like an impossible goal, so let’s just say I’ll do my best.
Today’s Topic: My walk to work (and beyond).
This one is easy; I definitely won’t miss walking to work, or anywhere else in Addis Ababa for that matter. I wish I could say I’ll miss the sites, sounds and smells, but besides for the wisp of incense that sometimes comes from a coffee stand, I don’t think I will. I know I’ve written about it before, and bitched plenty on Facebook, but there is really nothing more complex to describe than walking around on the streets here. At first it seemed like my emotional reactions evolved over days, or weeks. First I was depressed by the poverty, which is certainly some of the most extreme in the world. If there is a person who could look at a woman dressed in rags, with no shoes on her feet, sitting on the ground nursing her baby and NOT feel depressed, well I really hope you aren’t reading my blog, because I don’t want to know you! As I got more settled in here this turned to hopelessness. There is just so much poverty, how will it ever change? After a few weeks, once the culture shock kicked in, my feelings again changed, to anger and annoyance. On a 10-minute walk to work up to 20 people may approach me asking me for money. There is only so many times you can say no to a small child trying to sell you a packet of gum before you just want him to go away. It sounds heartless, but I know most of the money in that case goes right back into a larger supply chain that is designed to keep kids on the street selling things. I don’t like to give money because I don’t want to encourage begging. It isn’t sustainable for individuals, or the country as a whole. Later, this anger just turned to frustration. I live such a blessed life, who am I to be angry with someone who has so little and sees me as a way to make some money? Aren’t I here to help?

As I said, these feelings first came in long waves. Now, I’ve noticed, I can feel this range of emotion in a short 10-minute walk. Sad as I walk past a small child playing with nothing but a rock on the street, than hopeless that I’ve been here 8 months and I still don’t know how to change that. Annoyed when his brother follows me for 4 blocks, pestering me for money I know I am not going to give. And then of course frustrated at myself, for becoming angry at such a small thing.

There isn’t much to break this cycle. Taking Puddles off the street was probably had the greatest effect, but as much as I want to I can’t adopt any of the adorable children (or any more puppies) that I walk past every day. I sometimes give people, especially mothers, food, which can sometime alleviate the emotions for at least a few blocks. I try to do this whenever I can, meaning we never make it home with leftovers, and I often make several stops at fruit stands to make it home with any produce, which are obviously minuscule sacrifices.

Leaving Ethiopia won’t erase the images of poverty I’ve witnessed here, and I am sure I will find myself in a similar environment before to long. I am, however, looking forward to a less emotionally draining walk, for at least a few months.

Reflections 1

2011-03-09T03:13:00.002-08:00

Reflections 1

2011-03-09T03:13:00.001-08:00

Reflections 1

2011-03-09T03:13:00.000-08:00

Awasa

2011-03-02T21:53:00.000-08:00

I just got back from another trip to Awasa, which is in Southern Ethiopia, about 5 hours away from Addis Ababa. I've focused some of my research there because it is a medium size city with a large University presence and is a transit point from different areas of the country as well as surrounding countries. All of these factors are common in sites where emergency contraception is common. We went there once before, in late January, to speak with pharmacists, sex workers and University students. Unfortunately the students had been in the middle of exams, so we left them some surveys to fill out (not my favorite idea) and completed our other interviews.
The interviews at that time had been really interesting. On the way to Awasa we had stopped at a town called Sheshamanye. Sheshamanye is known for one thing, it is the Rasta's capital! Rastafarian is popular here, especially in the south and Sheshamanye is the land the former emperor Haile gave the Rasta people. Driving through it feels as though a typical Ethiopian town, with donkeys and women carrying water on their heads, has been invaded by a Phish show, or backpackers on Koh Sahn road!
We interviewed some sex workers there, at one of DKT's drop in centers. The centers are really amazing places where women can relax during the day, do their laundry, watch tv, and of course, get education and free condoms! The knowledge gap between the women we spoke to in Addis and in Sheshamanye was astounding. While they all use condoms (good news!) there was much less knowledge of EC, and the process some women told us they go through when a condom broke was positively medieval! It was great to speak with the girls and share some information with them as well.
This time around we merely drove through Sheshamanye, and made it to Awasa on Monday afternoon, in time to speak to some girls at the University about Postpill. When I was first creating this study everyone in my office told me University students would never talk to me. I'm glad I tried anyway. We got some great responses (at Addis University as well). It was interesting to think how in some ways University students are so much alike everywhere in the world. What was frightening was in many ways University students are greater sexual risk takers than Commercial sex workers! All of this will be written up in my report, so you'll just have to wait to hear more.
Awasa is located on a beautiful, pristine lake, which we had the chance to spend a bit of time on during both visits. I don't yet make enough money to stay at any of the fancy resorts, but we sat and had a juice, and watched the birds, which even I had to admit were very beautiful! I have some pictures of the fisherman serenely fishing as pelicans and herons play nearby, I'll try to post them soon!
The drive back to Addis is a bit of an eye opener. Before my first trip to Awasa the only other time I had traveled over land in Ethiopia had been in the North, during the rainy season. Everything was green and lush, it was hard to imagine a famine the likes of which this country is still known for. Driving to Awasa it is much clearer. About 2 hours outside of Addis, the land turns brown and dry. We passed mud and straw huts and people grazing cattle, and I tried to imagine how anyone could eek out a living in such a place. It seems impossible to comprehend, even living in Addis, where I can almost always have a hot shower and bottled water is less than 50 cents! As you go south the land gets green again, and we even passed a few ostrich running in some protected land.
Sadly, it seems much of the viable land has been taken over for commercial interests. About an hour outside of the city is a "Chinese village" where a Chinese company runs its construction facilities. Marring the landscape is a large cement factory, spewing residue into the air, it seems endlessly. I know that such factories need to exist for smooth roads and other improved infrastructure, but it is ugly all the same! A bit further down are the flower camps, row upon row of huge greenhouses growing flowers, most to be imported to Europe. Now I love flowers as much as the next girl, but it made me think twice about where such lovely gifts come from, and at what cost.

I apologize for the fact that this blog is all over the place! I am trying to write more regularly in the next few weeks before I leave, and I wanted to get this all down.

Miss me?

2011-02-23T04:10:00.000-08:00

I am a bad blogger! A very very bad blogger! I think most of you at this point must have realized I didn't return back to school in January. No, I am still in Ethiopia! Here is a very brief summary to catch you up:
In November I was offered a consultancy position with DKT Ethiopia, to do some research on their Emergency Contraception product.
Later in November me and Paul headed out on an AMAZING walking safari in Kenya. It was one of the most amazing trips of my life, and it deserves its own blog post
In December I spent a month in the U.S./Canada and managed to spend lots of time with my family, see most of my friends, go to Aruba with the Golds and even make it to an early Christmas in Vancouver!
In early January Paul and I headed back here, where we were greeted by an enthusiastic puppy who was very happy to see us. She was much less happy to be neutered a few days later, but that is another story, involving the vet doing the surgery on our dining room table, that surely also deserves its own post.

So a bit more about what I am doing here. First of all, I am having a blast! I LOVE my job! DKT is such a great organization to work at, it feels like bureaucracy is illegal here. If I have an idea my boss tends to tell me to run with it. When I learned that DKT is introducing a new lubricant product I was asked to think up a name! Talks about condom sizes and flavors, and family planning ad models are common talk, in other words I feel right at home!

The research, though it is not completed, was great too. Myself and my team (I have a team, how cool is that?) visited several pharmacists around the city to interview them on their behavior and opinions towards to pill. This was followed by interviewing commercial sex workers at several drop in centers around the city, which was extremely interesting! And even more so, was going on an outreach ride at night, and talking to many of the CSW on the street! I did a bit of outreach like that in Thailand, and I forgot how interesting it is and how much I enjoy it. The girls aren't anything like you'd expect them to be. Many of them are really outgoing and funny, and willing to share all sorts of information. These interviews were followed by more with university students. It was certainly interesting to see the cultural differences (and similarities) between students here and in the U.S.

All this was followed by a one week trip to beautiful Awasa (in the south of the country) where we repeated the research. The city was laid back, quiet on a huge lake that was all much more relaxing than Addis! At one point, following a long day of interviews, sitting by the lake drinking a fresh mango juice, I literally couldn't take a smile off my face!

Now it's not all fun and games! I'm now entering and analyzing the data, which is certainly tedious! All in all, it has been an amazing experience and I have learned so much!
Thank you to everyone who helped me with the decision to stay here and do this work! I'll try to be a better blogger for the rest of the time I am here, but for now, much love!

This week

2010-11-15T11:39:00.000-08:00

It has been a funny week or so. Paul and I have a bunch of big decisions to make, which I will write about when they are made. My time with CARE is wrapping up soon. Everytime I hold a focus group with the domestic workers I come out thinking "that is the saddest one ever". The one I held on Friday certainly made me feel that way.
As I've written about before, I've been meeting with Domestic workers here, to find out more about their needs (an lives). The last few were held at nigh schools, but we wanted to find a way to reach the workers that don't (or can't) go to school. We (mostly my amazing coworker Biniam) managed to get in touch with some brokers and we set up a group. 8 women walked in, all I would learn were 20 and under. 4 had children strapped to their hip. 3 of the others had children at home, watched by a friend or roommate. One more had a child who had died a few months before. The saddness, anger and frustration was palpable in the room. I won't get into the details, but these were all women who had worked as dw at some point in their lives. A few had gotten pregnant while working (2 by their employer, one who had been raped by him) and were than fired. Others had moved on to bar work, where they had gotten boyfriends who paid for their things, but bolted as soon as they got pregnant. They were fired as well. People won't hire domestic workers with children, because it is an almost full time job. The bars won't because of the late nights and small room space provided to live in. So the women are reduced to washing clothes, one household will pay them 50 birr/month to wash their clothing. That is just about 3 dollars, or what Paul and I paid for a pizza last night. Rent, most said is 250 birr a month, split with a roomamte. That is before the costs for their kids, many who despondently shared with us that they want to put up for adoption. As one woman put it "I don't want my mistakes to hurt my daughter".
The kids were all adorabe, though I resisted adopting them on the spot. I commented, as I was thanking them, that their children were all so quite and well behaved, nothing like American children. "That" on woman told me "is because they are poor children. They know not to make noise, because there is nothing to ask for".
I have 2 weeks here to stress how important this group is. I still want to figure out the best way to reach them. If anyone has any ideas please share them with me.

Paul knows I always feel glum after these sessions, and him and Puddles did the best they could to cheer me up! A Saturday of movies and cuddling on the couch with my 2 roomies was much appreciated!
Even better, we had the chance to escape the city on Sunday. Paul and I, plus our friends Jack and Stacy went horseback riding in the forests outside Addis. It was a beautful trail, and though the weather was odd (the first rain outside of the rainy season) it was cool and crisp, which was nice since all four of us are extremely pale! I ended up with a horse that can be best described as "tempormental and stubborn". While everyone elses horses would go when kicked and stopped when reighned (like trained horses are suposed to do) mine liked to stop at the back of the pack and pick up slowly. He wouldn't move any faster when I kicked him, but he would break into a trot whenever he felt like. It was a bit scary but our tour gudie was great and the horse was never mean, he clearly just didn't feel like working. It was a long day (we began riding at 10 with a lunch break around noon and got back close to 5) and were all sore and tired. It was really great though, and anyone spending time in Addis should definitly check Eqquos Addis out, especially if you need a break from this city. I should have pictures from our ride up in some form too.

Lalibela!

2010-11-09T21:26:00.001-08:00

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/Nov62010?authkey=Gv1sRgCODq8-_e5Iiz9QE&feat=directlink

I am trying something new today. People who don't have facebook, or are not friends on me on facebook (how sad!) have been complaining that they don't get to see any pictures of Ethiopia! I am rectifying that right now, by attempting to link directly through blogger 2 links to the albums of me and Paul in Lalibela. Here is some story as well, though I think in the case of this particular trip, the pictures tell 1000 words.

Lalibela is Ethiopia's second most sacred place, a area once known as "New Jerusalem" King Lalibela had visit had visited Jerusalem in the 12/13th century and wanted to build a sacred city in his own country, filled with churches and a site for pilgrimages. What he created was truly amazing. Carved out of rock, many of the churches are monolithic meaning they were all carved out of one slab, directly out of the mountain. At each site (there are 13 of King Lailibea's churches) Paul our tour guide Indy and I slipped off our shoes and entered the cold dark churches that are still standing after 700 years. Many have paintings of saints (St. George is a favorite here) or Mary and Jesus painted on the wall. Its hard to explain in words, but after having seen more churches than I can ever count in Europe, this was a totally different experience. In a way they seem more like the Buddhist Temples in SE Asia, cool and serene, providing a place for reflection. Many of the churches are connected by dark tunnels, one of which is was possible to walk through, a disconcerting yet rewarding trip. The first link here is from our first day there, visiting the 13 most famous churches in Lalibela. Take note of the many shots of Bet Gorges (House of St George) the monolithic church cut into the ground shaped as a cross. It was utterly spectacular.

Paul and I explored the grounds of our hotel that evening. Recommended for the restaurant and the views, we weren't disappointed on either front. We walked behind the hotel and managed to catch an amazing sunset through the mountains over the village. The hotel also has an a well known bird garden. Now those of you that know me know I don't really like birds. Actually having grown up near mostly NYC Pigeons and Long Island Seagulls, hate would be a more appropriate word. My love of birds wasn't enhanced at all when one pooped on me outside one of the churches that very afternoon (good luck, Indy assured me, even in Ethiopia). Even still, there was something nice about the happy sounds of what were admit idly very pretty colorful birds at dusk. But this hasn't changed my opinion of birds overall!

The next morning we headed out early to visit yet another rock hewed church, and a monastery, this time in the hills above the village. The 2 hour hike up was tough with the altitude, but amazingly rewarding, when we arrived at the top and got greeted with the view. I won't try to describe it here, but send your attention to the second link, which includes some pictures.

After a delicious lunch and a short break we were off again, this time to Yemrehana Kristos, a church about an hour and a half drive out of town, which predates Lailbela's churches by about 100 years. This was probably my favorite of the churches. We were the only tourists there when we arrived (though we ran into 1 other group when we left) and Indy had to find the priest, and his adorable son, to let us in. This church was built into a rock as well, surrounded by a cave that has protected it for so many centuries. As it is built into a cave it is surrounded by water and wood planks and bamboo make it possible to walk inside. The whole area is again cool and peaceful until you walk to the back and discover the partially mummified corpse of over 10,000 Pilgrims. It was beyond eerie when the priest switched one lamp on and we were greeted with the smiling corpses of these martyrs of 900 years ago, many who are said to have traveled from as far as Israel and Jordan!

Tired and hungry Indy left us back at our hotel for a delicious Ethiopian feast. We left Lalibela by plane early the next morning, tired yet excited to see our puppy and glad we had visited one of Ethiopia's most breathtaking sites. Enjoy the pictures!

2 Causes

2010-10-22T08:38:00.000-07:00

Many of you have asked how you can help the people of Ethiopia. Those who haven’t asked, well I am sure you were wondering and haven’t gotten around to it yet. Even if you are not curious, please read on, this entry is full of important stuff.

I visited the Hamlin Fistula Hospital today. Most of you who have ever spent time with me know what a fistula is, but in case you don’t here is a brief explanation. Here in Ethiopia, and in much of the developing world, women often do not have access to, or can’t afford, to give birth with a doctor or trained health worker. This can result in a variety of horrible effects, including death due to hemorrhaging or infection. It can also lead to prolonged birth, lasting for days, and sometimes up to a week. The baby almost always dies and while the labor continues the womb pushes on the bladder or bowels, and can often cause tearing. This hole is known as a fistula, and it causes incontinence, with the woman unable to control her urine or feces. If this weren’t bad enough it is accompanied by a horrible spell, which often leads to women being shunned by their families and communities, forced to live in isolation in the edges of villages. Women often develop physical disabilities due to lack of movement or drop foot. This is where the Fistula hospital comes in. A simple surgery is all that is needed to fix the fistula, but it is something most women in Ethiopia can’t afford. The hospital offers it for free, allowing women to stay for free while they receive the surgery and recover, and even longer if they need more than one surgery. All they ask is that they tell others about the hospital, and they give birth to any further children there, with a trained doctor.

The place is amazing. I’ve heard about it: in school, from Nicholas Kristoff and Oprah (who is a major donor) and it was amazing to see in person. Its set on quite land filled with flowers, with different buildings housing pre-op, surgery, recovery, maternity as well as a school, a physical therapy center and a management of incontinence center (Oprah’s building). While beautiful, the smell is overwhelming and it is still stuck in my nasal memory. While the place is well funded, there are so many women in need of the surgery they are always in need of more. If you are interested in donating, or learning more, check out the website or the website for the fistula foundation which contributes to the hospital here: http://www.hamlinfistula.org.au/ as well as several other equally amazing, but less known ones. http://www.fistulafoundation.org/ . Even better, the Gold’s are sending me a package soon, to contain a dog crate and candy for a starving Canadian-American couple- but it can be filled with more. If you would like to send something to help the women out you can email me and I can give you the address in the U.S. to send it to. What is most in need is baby clothing, as most people don’t realize there is a birthing center. All women’s clothing, including stockings, would be welcome. If, just by chance, there are any super knitters out there, the women knit, so if you have any leftover “stash” please send that along. And I think a baby hat or sweater could be a great activity for a national knitting convention!

Wait, there is more. As I’ve mentioned before, one of the big projects I am working on here is research on the domestic workers. They are an extremely vulnerable and isolated group, often getting paid nothing or next to nothing (i.e. just about slaves) and are usually from rural areas and know no one in Addis. I’ve held several focus group discussions at some night schools that target domestic workers, and the findings have thus far been heartbreaking. Without going into to much detail, several have faced attempted rape by employers, sons of employers or friends of employers. They have to keep working for these people, as they have nowhere else to go. Two of the participants in my group last night were TWELVE! I just kept thinking when I was 12 my biggest concerns were the Kate Spade backpack I wanted and to not wanting to go to Hebrew school anymore, and here were these girls, forced to work in strangers homes for little or no money! Most came to Addis to escape early marriage, or because they were told they could continue school! Once they arrive they find they must work, for relatives or through brokers. And the girls I’ve spoken to may be considered “lucky” because their employers let them attend night school. Many other employers don’t. A coworker and myself have made this cause a top priority, though we aren’t sure just what to do yet. If you have any ideas please send them along. For the time being, there is a discussion of teaming with some local women’s shelters, to provide a safe space for these women (or in many cases girls) who have nowhere else to go. If you do send me women’s clothes, and the shelter, even our own, or others, is happening, I may donate some to that. If you have a preference, please indicate it. And please look forward to a further call for donations to this cause once we figure out exactly what we will be doing (around the holidays, perhaps).

I know it is rude and a bit pushy but so little goes so far here. Its something that we all forget (I do it at home, and even here), caught up in the day to day stresses of life. Its incredible that used clothing or a few dollars could have such value here. Please help me add to that value.

Eating in Ethiopia

2010-10-12T03:03:00.000-07:00

When I say "Ethiopia" and "food" to most people I tend to get one of two responses. "I'm so jealous" or something akin to "there's food in Ethiopia?". The latter is of course wit inspired by the major famines people associate (somewhat accurately) with much of the country's recent history, made even more famous by South Park's Ethernopian, Starvin Marvin. Fortunately for those living in food scarce resources, this has been a "great rainy season" (maybe not to my shoes) and the countryside is remarkably green and lush!

The jealousy over the amazing food I am eating is a bit more accurate Ethiopian food really is unique and delicious! For those who have never had the pleasure of trying it, I recommend you do so already. If you are in any major city, odds are there is at least one restaurant. And if you aren't in a major city, well go to one (I recommend NY or DC).

The staple of any Ethiopian meal in injera a spongy pancake bread that is almost impossible to describe in words. Injera is part of every Ethiopian meal, and many Ethiopians I have met swear they can't eat any food (including pasta) without it. Injera is used to scoop up wot, the stew style foods of Ethiopia. Wots can consist of lentils, chickpeas, spinach, lamb, beef, chicken, etc. Traditionally, several people sit over a large plate of injera and wot, and use there hands to scoop up the food. This allows me to try many different dishes, a process made easier since I am no longer veggie (and I am very much no longer veggie, to Paul's delight). I've gotten better at not ending a meal covered in wat, and I've learned the name of some of my favorite foods. There is also great fresh fruit and fruit shakes are a favorite treat here. An avocado and papaya shake, so think you need to consume it with a spoon, is a great way to start a day!

Why Injera and wot is good enough I could live on it, its not the only option, by any stretch! Addis is an extremely international city, and with that comes international cuisine. By far the most common is Italian food. The Italians occupied Ethiopia in the 1930s and 40s, and though they were triumphantly expelled, several great influences lived on. There is terrific Italian food here, and as a New Yorker I don't say that lightly. There is even Pizza that I will (happily) eat! If pizza and linguine and brushetta wasn't enough, there are several Chinese restaurants around town. There is also Korean, Tex-Mex (better than I expected, though in no way rivaling the nacho standards set by both Darcy and Danny) and even a Thai place! We tried the Thai place and were pleasantly surprised, a great sign since Paul and I are serious Thai food snobs!

Ok, now it is time to eat lunch!

Doing good?

2010-10-07T02:21:00.000-07:00

My sister Jen, an amazing girl, recently completed a one year Americorps contract, at an elementary school in New Orleans. Back home on Long Island, she is faced with the current slim job pickings in NYC. Recently she emailed me, asking what I would think about her "selling her soul to the man at an evil corporate job" sine there are very few non-profit jobs where she would have the opportunity to "do good". I promptly wrote her back, telling her, that in my opinion, what you do should in no way define who you are. We both have plenty of friends and family in the private sector who are "good people", this has to do with their values, not where they work. I am lucky enough to have been able to work in the field of my choice thanks in part to support from my father, who works in business. (Thanks Dad!)

This got me thinking though, what does it mean to "do good". Its a question I am faced with on a daily basis here. As a white person, it is assumed I am rich (and even though I am surviving on a small grant here, compared to most Ethiopians, I am). This means, as I have mentioned before, the appearance of beggars on almost every walk outside. How one deals with beggars seems to be a personal choice. Some people I know give small change when they have it, knowing that a 1/2 bihr (with 16 bihr=1 dollar) has far more worth to a beggar than to them self. Paul never gives them anything. He believes that this encourages further begging, and dissuades people from seeking other employment. I am more a believer in giving food, feeling that it can't be misused. But I don't give to anyone. As heartbreaking as the kids in Addis are, I don't like to encourage them running up to ferenji in packs, demanding "one bihr". So I tend to give to kids on their own, or more often to mothers with small children. They seem to me the most destitute. Paul and I discuss this a great deal as we walk the streets of Addis. His way allows him never having to make a decision in who is "most in need" but it doesn't leave him feeling "good". Mine does, but usually not for long. Even if I give a kilo of bananas away, half a block later I am likely to run in to a mother and child sleeping on the street, with nothing left to give them. And have I done good? If I feel good doing it, does it still count as "doing good"?

So what is good? I great thing about Addis is the inexpensive (by American standards) spa services, and I recently indulged in a 1 hour Swedish massage that cost me 10 dollars U.S. ! I walked out feeling great, but fell asleep thinking of the implications of those 10 dollars. It seemed to me that I was supporting the local economy, by paying the salary of at least one person working at the spa. But who knows how that dollar could have been better spent. Is it ok because I work at a nonprofit, but it wouldn't be if I worked for a private sector company here? Is it over indulgent to pay for a massage here, when others have so little? Or is it helpful to support local industry?

This brings me back to my sister and family. I believe that Jen and I were raised with great values (thanks to the aforementioned dad and an equally amazing mom), even though we were exposed to some less than stellar ones on a daily basis during our upbringing on Long Island. And I think that is how you become "good" It has nothing to do with your profession or where you work. There are plenty of snobby NGO workers here, and plenty of kind people working in the private sector in the U.S. It has to do with who you are. How you treat others and what you value. Do you drive a nice car because you like having a nice car? Or because you think that car makes you a better person than others? We like nice things in the Gold family (especially spa massages) but we know that those nice things are just things, at that those things don't define us. I try to take the values I grew up with with me here. The belief in the importance of giving, but also in making yourself happy. And that, at least to me, may be the best way to "do good"

Bahir Dar 2- The Vacation

2010-10-05T06:02:00.000-07:00

After a week of field work, which I've already mentioned was extremely draining, Friday night I fell asleep by 8, surrounded by mosquito net, covered in deet. Addis is so elevated and cool that there is little need for mosquito protection, but Bahir Dar, its low altitude and lakeside location, demands malaria prophylaxis, mosquito nets, and lots and lots of deet. But anyone who has ever traveled with me in a tropical environment knows that even if I bathe in deet I still wake up with numerous bites! This time was no exception, so I am happy I had remembered to start my doxy regime, a malaria prophylaxis. Of course Doxy makes you sensitive to the sun. And anyone who has ever met me (or Paul) knows our skins aren't exactly tough in the sun to begin with. Therefore we caused quite a sight at breakfast Saturday morning, the odd ferenji covering ourselves in SPF 50 and deet! Feeling protected we were ready to start our day.

Bahir Dar, as I've mentioned, is located around Lake Taneh the third largest lake in Africa. It is also the source of the Blue Nile! We spent Saturday visiting the falls in a village about an hour away from Bahir Dar. Instead of springing the 100 bihr to rent a car to take us there Paul decided I needed the "African bus experience". 5 minutes later, as we sat in the last row of what was already proving to be a bumpy bus ride, after already been asked for money by no less than 6 people Paul couldn't remember why this experience was so needed! While we were shouted at (and in one case grabbed at) at every village we stopped in, we eventually made it to the falls, which proved to be worth the long journey. The hike was well worth the trip and sore backside. Being the end of the rainy season the falls were running at full force. The foliage was green and clean, and after a week of being shuttled from one NGO to another it felt great to be outside and moving around.Plus the money saved on the journey allowed me to purchase a scarf! I've posted pictures of our hike on facebook, and will try to find a way to get them here as well.

Saturday we visited the island monasteries that dot the lake outside the city. Ethiopian is about 60% Eastern Orthodox Christian, and the places of prayer are very different than churches I've seen in the west. The monasteries dated from the 13th-16th century, and were remarkably well preserved. Many housed books from the same period, in perfect condition thanks to the fact they were printed on goatskin. Painted stories line the walls in vibrant colors. One monastery was male only, but I ended up getting to visit the new "woman's museum" with a well informed tour guide. Most of the paintings there featured old testament stories, and we ended up discussing EOC similarities with Judaism, or which there are many! Paul discovered a menorah at the same monastery, proving I've had some influence on him.

Our boat drive took us back to the city in time to escape a torrential downpour. While the rainy season was coming to a close, it seemed the weather wanted a grand finale, and we were treated to some of the most amazing storms I've ever seen in my life! The evening before we witnessed what appeared to be 2 converging thunderstorms, which was a delight to see, until we realized that the rain was seeping in through the balcony window onto our floor! Apparently our very nice guest house room was no competition for Africa's rain! The storm Sunday was less severe and we were able to make it back to a cafe in time for lunch and Meskel!

Meskel is an Ethiopian Greek Orthodox holiday commemorating the finding of the true cross here. It is celebrated with large cross-topped bonfires, parades, singing, dancing and fireworks. The party lasted all night. I slept soundly thought it, my ability to sleep through almost anything is a great blessing in the developing world. Paul, not blessed in this regard, reported that there was singing and firecrackers till about 5 am!

We returned to Addis the next morning, the 45 minute Ethiopian Airs flight a great improvement over the nine hour car ride I had taken there. We were greeted by a very cheerful and hyper puddles puppy! I apologize for the length of this entry, I blame it on my failure to blog the journey for over a week. I promise more concise entries soon.

As I haven't found any other way to post pictures (besides facebook) here are a few linked http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/SouthGondarFieldVisitAndBahirDar?authkey=Gv1sRgCPmoq-6WjsiZHw# I am still working on it.....

Field Visit 3

2010-09-30T03:42:00.000-07:00

left town of Debre Tarbor early Thursday morning, after waking to find the electricity was back just in time for me to leave. The drive back to Bahir Dar was once again beautiful. It was a market day so there were even more people than the drive there, something I hadn't thought would be possible. I spent most of the drive chatting with CARE's driver while taking high-speed photos from the window.
I arrived in Bahir Dar and was happy with what I saw. The third largest city in the country is known as "Ethiopia's Riviera". While I probably wouldn't go that far, there is no denying the city's charm. With palm trees lining wide streets, the areas slow pace seemed like a welcome improvement on Addis Ababa. And the presence of many restaurants, bars and fruit shops (as well as electricity) felt a welcome change from Debre Tarbor!

I went immediately to CARE's Bahir Dar office, where I was immediately whisked visit some of our field partners. We happened to arrive during a woman's group meeting, and although it wasn't our target demographic, I did a quick focus group discussion to find out a bit more about life in the city. The women were friendly and spunky, chiding me for not being married (so old at 26) and encouraging me to tell my friends and family in the U.S. about life in Ethiopia! Lunch time meant I could check into my hotel, and take a much longed for hot shower! After 4 days without hot water (which for me means not washing my hair) I was wishing I had taken up my bosses offer to get my hair braided! Feeling refreshed (and well nourished thanks to food and a machiato at the hotel restaurant) I continued with more partner visits in the afternoon.

Five o'clock finally arrived, which meant Paul arrived in Bahir Dar! Since the upcoming weekend was 3 days, he decided to meet me and spend it at some of the beautiful sites Bahir Dar has to offer. Tales (and pictures) from this trip will arrive in my next entry.

Friday meant one more day of FGD and interviews. I spent the morning with an amazing group of "youth" (which is defined here as 15-29) who run an anti-AIDS alliance in one of the poorest slums of the city. I met with founders and members of the group, all who were about my age. I was awed and inspired by their dedication to their community, even when it means they often risk stigma and discrimination themselves. Most are college students who managed to make it that far even though they all grew up in poverty, in the very same slums. While they pursued careers in IT, pharmaceuticals as well as other income activities, they spend their free time educating the community about HIV. Commercial Sex Work (CSW) is common in the area, and they run activities to reduce the stigma of buying and using condoms. They also create programs to allow people to talk about what they know about HIV, which allows for misconceptions to be acknowledged and corrected.

One of the things I was tasked with doing on this trip was some "positive case studies" of urban female youth. One girl in the group was a founder and clearly a great leader. I took her aside after the group and asked if she minded if I told her life story. She agreed, and began to tell me how her mother highhandedly raised 5 daughters in the same slum we were currently sitting. I won't tell her whole story here, but at one point she broke down into tears, and I felt horrible for asking her to share such an upsetting tale. But at the end she thanked me, because she is happy more people will know of her mother's strength and dedication. Currently she is in college, dating a boy who cares and respects her, and is "very grateful and happy" with her life. I was honored to be able to hear her story.

The day winded down with visits to a few more neighborhood groups. The visits were a great learning experience but the trip was amazingly draining! I met Paul for another amazing fruit juice, exhausted but excited for our 3 day weekend trip!

Field Visit 2

2010-09-21T23:36:00.000-07:00

I am in the midst of a field visit, as I think I noted in my last post. We are in the town of, well to be honest I was told the name of the town once and I don’t remember it. All I know is for the first time in my life I am somewhere that isn’t listed in a lonely planet! I get looks walking down the street from more than just the little kids. This is the only tiem outside of 2 weeks spent in Burma that I get consistant expressions of surprise from the locals!
It’s a pretty town that is growing rapidly. Like most of Ethiopia, rural to urban migration is a major trend, and this town is seen as a jumping off point for further migration. Which actually fits in very nicely with the work I am doing. While my co-workers are here for a training I was brought along to speak to some of the local NGOs/CBOs that are based here, and Bahir Dar, a larger city I will be visiting tomorrow. While my program will be focusing on urban female youth (or UFY in this industry that LOVES acronymns) I belive it is impossible to look at the urban without thinking about the rural, since the majority of the poor urban population are migrants. So it was time to find out more.
One sub-group that I personally pushed for the program to target is trafficked girls. Trafficking is an issue I first got interested in while I was in South East Asia, where the problem is extremely prevelant. While it is not a common here, and it takes on different forms, it is still a major issue that seriously harms young women. So we arranged for me to visit Chad-et, a local NGO that provides services to prevent trafficking. The organization looks for girls that are vulnerable for trafficking and prevents it by offering education and alternative incomes. Additionally, they provide a safe-house for up to 32 girls who they directly stop from falling into the hands of traffickers.
There were no girls when I visited. Being the end of the rainy season meant most people were busy at home. After Christmas, I was told, was when trafficking tends to be highest, and the shelter is often full. Personally I was very impressed by Chalet’s services. It seems their projects do a great job at targeting girl’s individual needs and vulnerabilities. I hope I have the chance to work with them again in the future.
I spent the afternoon leaving town, checking out a women’s group CARE’s South Gondar office runs. The group meets for a week for training and discussion in life skills and empowerment. The women were kind enough to allow me to interrupt their session to speak to them and arrange a focus group study with a few of them. I had only been given about 20 minutes warning that a focus group could be arranged, so the entire thing was pretty improprtu. Overall, I was proud of my own ability to think on my feet and create questions and discussion that were engaging and informative. The information will be useful for future programming.

I’m struck by the differences in rural and urban poverty. While both are severe here, they seem to be very different. Seeing malnourished children (or adults) is less common, though not un heard of, in Addis. Here is seems more common. On the other hand, there is no begging here. I’ve only had one person say “give me money” in the past 3 days, something that usually happens at least half a dozen times on any given walk through Addis. Additionally, I can’t help thinking that people look happier here. Perhaps it is just that here I am viewing people walking to and from the town, likely selling goods, but I also think it may have to do with being near family and friends. When people migrate to urban areas they are also alone. Unlike someone as lucky as me, blessed with skype and email and facebook, as well as a network of friends and friends of friends throughout the world, youth often arrive knowing no one and being unable to reach those they left behind. A study I recently read found almost 60% of migrant girls report having NO friends! For some reason, of all the things I’ve read that might have been the saddest. And I think I may have written about it before, but it feels striking again here, as the poverty people are in is more communal. At the same time, I know there are horrible things I don’t see. Child marriage is still very common here. 2 of the 7 girls I spoke to yesterday (the oldest of whom was 27) reported being married by age 10. 5 had had children before the age of 20! These are some of the things youth are trying to escape by running to the cities. But comparing poverty seems like a fruitless exercise anyway. Best to once again be grateful for the things in my life, and continue working to bring people out of poverty here.

Field Visit 1

2010-09-19T09:00:00.000-07:00

I am going to be in the field with CARE for the week. I just arrived in South Ghodnar, an area North of Addis Ababa, where CARE has a field office. It took about 12 hours by car (4x4) to get here, and although the trip was long with no break for about 8 hours between breakfast and lunch, it was beautiful. Every time I started to feel cranky about the fact that I was stuck in the middle seat I would take a look outside and notice people walking down the road with no shoes on. It shut my brain up fast! There are people everywhere, it seems, in Ethiopia. Only 45 minutes out of the city, the area becomes very rural, and we passed mud huts with no electricity. The flow of people, however, didn't seize. People herding cows and sheep. People carrying goods to/from markets. People (mostly children) selling produce and crafts. If there was any question about this country's high population and fertility rates (there wasn't), this trip erased it for me!

The scenery was beautiful. This "great" rainy season has been beneficial to the rural area, even if it means Paul and I have to swim the road our house is on! Everything is green and lush, and besides for the hail storm that we drove through, sunny. We passed three beautiful waterfalls as well as drove over the blue nile.

I will be here till Wednesday, when I will be going to the city of Bahir Dar for a few days. I will surely have more to tell soon. Additionally, I plan to have pictures and will find a way to post them to my blog soon.

Additionally, I know there has been a request for pictures of Puddles, I have them and will post those soon too!

Jennifer in New York

2010-09-16T21:39:00.001-07:00

Just because my own work and studies tends to take me to the developing world doesn't mean I am not aware of the serious economic and social issues that individuals in the U.S. face every day. In fact, my first introduction to public health was working with Harlem RBI. U.S. urban public schools often have upwards of 40 children in one class with one teacher! New supplies are limited, buildings are often old and unsafe, playgrounds non-existent and teachers face the additional challenges of working with students who often have stresses at home. With that in mind I commend my amazing sister Jennifer Gold and all the great work she does for students facing the serious challenges and disadvantages of urban public schools in the U.S.
For those of you that don't know, Jen just finished an amazing stint working at a Langston Hughes Academy in New Orleans, the first Charter elementary school to open after Katrina! She is back in NY now, but her dedication to urban students hasn't waned.
This she is going to be participating in NYCARES Day 2010, working to revitalizing public schools in NY. I've copied her email below all about it, but I have to say its a great cause. Besides the work she and her team will be doing that day, the money she and her group are raising are going to the Nicole Schiffman Foundation, a great foundation, in honor of a wonderful girl the world lost far too soon.
Here is more information on NY Cares day, as well as a link to donate to this wonderful cause.
NY Cares Day is a day of service to revitalize public schools in all 5 boroughs. Along with 7,000 other volunteers, we will be painting hundreds of colorful murals, adding bright new line games to playgrounds, organizing school libraries, planting flowers, and more to create inspiring learning environments.
Like a walkathon, we are asking for your support by making a donation to New York Cares in honor of our service.
Every dollar donated to New York Cares amounts to $6 in service to the community. By raising $100 dollars, we can help:
· Provide 10 low-income students with one-on-one SAT tutoring for one year
· Prepare and serve 1,800 meals to the hungry and homebound.
· Grant books and supplies to 15 children in an Early Morning Reading program
· Buy children art supplies for a semester-long Art Explores programs
· Give 12 adult immigrants study materials to prepare for the U.S. Citizenship exam.
Donations are greatly appreciated and can be made by following the link below:
http://www.newyorkcaresday.org/nicoleschiffmanfoundation

Thanks for your generosity!

Happy New Year ^2

2010-09-11T01:32:00.002-07:00

I wrote this post last Wednesday, the 8th, but this is the first time I seem to be able to upload it. I am not going to waste any more rare internet time editing it but know 2 important updates. Paul and I found a house and it looks like we may keep Puddles (see below).

I neglected a very important "number" in my last post!
Number of NEW YEARS I have this week: 2.

Yep- today marks the beginning of Rosh Hasana, the Jewish New Year
(Shanah Tova!). And Saturday, Sept. 11 is the Ethiopian New Year, bringing
in the year 2003! Ethiopians follow and Orthodox Christian calender, and
are 7 years behind and have 13 months.
Thursday, Friday or Saturday (depending a bit on lunar views) will also be
Eid, the end of the Muslim holiday of Ramadan! All this makes for a 4 day
weekend, plus lots of goats and ch
If that wasn't exciting enough......I've (temporarily) rescued and adopted a
puppy. I found her on the street a few days ago and she was in the same
place the following days. She is very young (I'm guessing just a few
months) and she kept running into the street and was hiding under a car.
Ethiopians treat dogs much better than some other countries I've been to,
but life on the street is still not easy for a puppy here (nor a person, as
I've written about before, and surely will again). Concerned, I got the
number of a vet, who came right over. He told me it was "going to cost me"
to get all the shots for her, the total was about U.S. $40! Having done it,
we discussed next steps, and the Dr. recommended getting her to a safer
place, because even with all the shots she is tiny, underfed and at risk of
other dogs, mean kids and cars. So I took her home!

I promised Paul I wouldn't get attached because I don't think I can keep
her, but I've broken that promise about a million times! She now runs out
to the gate to greet me, and waits at the door in the morning. She still
seems amazed when I bring her food twice a day! I am in the process of
finding her a home, hopefully someone that will let me come play with her
all the time!

CARE has some big arrivals today: The CEO of the National program, Helene
Gayle as well as Jenna Bush, Christy Turlington and 2 congress people (who I
have yet to hear the names of)! I won't get to be meeting anyone but Helene
Gayle (which is pretty awesome in its own right- google her!) but its
exciting to know that such people, who are influential in policy and
advocacy, are coming here to see our work.

And of course, matching all that, Paul arrives tonight as well! :)

Happy New Year (x2) everyone!!!!

AA by the Numbers

2010-09-05T07:26:00.001-07:00

I wrote the last post a few days ago and I still have a few more minutes to kill of free internet so here are some fast facts about my life in Addis.

# of days here:16
# of times I've been caught in the rain: 1
# of times the currency conversion has changed:1. In my favor, and by 17%. Things are even cheaper than before, though this will probably be very bad for the economy.
# of marriage proposals I've received walking down the street: too many to count
# of days till Paul gets here: 3, hopefully putting a stop to the street side proposals and cat calls
# of international NGOs I pass on the way to work at my International NGO: at least 10
# of children adopted: zero (so far)
# of puppies adopted:zero, though I came real close today
# of kilometers I ran this morning: 5. The gyms are filled with runners, many who must by Olympians! It gets me competitive!
# of times I've gotten lost: Just twice. I am not sure if this means I have a great sense of direction, or I just haven't been exploring enough
# of cups of coffee I now drink a day. At least one, usually 2, during the week! I've never been a coffee drinking, and several of you have stayed over my apt. complaining about my lack of coffee. But the coffee here is so good (and so strong) that I just can't turn it down. I am trying my best to not drink it in the morning, to avoid an addiction. I've cracked several times, and am also fearful I've developed a 2:30 addiction
# of field visits: 0, but a few are in the works
# of times I've moved :1, and another one is is store when Paul gets here
# of times I've gotten belly sick :0, the DC burgers clearly prepared my stomach!

There are surely more numbers but thats it for now.

Working in AA

2010-09-05T06:47:00.000-07:00

People keep asking me what exactly I am doing in Ethiopia. Well besides for dodging street children, getting my butt kicked by insane Ethiopian trainers at the gym, eating lots of yummy stews scooped with injerna, avoiding the daily rains and getting frustrated with finicky internet, I am also interning with CARE Ethiopia's Resource Poor Urban Female Youth Program Design Team. Now for those of you that didn't go to Emory (CARE is based in ATL and speakers from the organization showed up everywhere) CARE is one of the oldest NGOs in the U.S. Originally created after World War 2 "Cooperative for American Remittances to Europe" the organization now works throughout the world. In Ethiopia CARE focuses on women's issues including health, economic empowerment, rights and livelihoods. Currently CARE is redesigning their programs to become more far reaching and long lasting, that's where I come in.
As part of the program design team I am researching what projects currently exist and where the gaps are. I am also engaged in "partner mapping" trying to find information on all the organizations based in Ethiopia who we may be able to partner with. This is no easy task, as most don't have websites or reliable contact information, and I've found myself on the phone or visiting in person with resources. I am also going to be checking out many of our sites first hand, in order to put together some Concept Notes. I am really looking forward to getting to "the field". My first stop will probably be right here in Addis, where I will leave the expat enclave of the Bole neighborhood to venture to some of the slums near Mercato (and elsewhere) where CARE does most of its work here. I will be travelling with the Urban HIV program. Additionally, I was just informed that in a few weeks a team of us will be traveling to South Ghondar (a rural area up North) and Bahir Dar, a city by one of the large Lakes, also in the North, to see some of the adolescent programs occurring there. I am really looking forward to these trips.
I can already say I've learned a great deal about working with an International Organization overseas, though I don't think I've been here long enough to truly take in all I've absorbed. I am off to meet some friends for dinner (Korean food!) but look forward to some future updates real soon .

A Street Tour of AA

2010-08-27T02:28:00.000-07:00

I intended to write about my work today, what I’m doing. But on my walk over to get my internet “fixed” (ok it turns out I had no money on my mobile modem) I got bombarded by street children. Like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Even if you’ve never met me (and cool, that means I have followers) you should be able to tell from this blog that I like kids and tend to be compassionate to anything that affects their livelihood. I walked past numerous kids having to shake my head no, when I passed a mother and young daughter just sitting on the street. Neither asked me for anything, the little girl just looked at me and sort of reached out her hand. Spotting a nearby fruit stand I went to buy some bananas for her. Apparently I had been spotted, because in the 15 second interaction of picking out bananas I was surrounded by about 15 kids, many who were bigger than me, jostling for food. Someone had once warned me I would grow to hate the street kids here. I thought they were just jaded and cynical. While I don’t think I will ever hate these children that are looking for someone to eat, a walk down the street here does make it easy to loose a feeling of compassion and replace it with annoyance. I’m not sure what the answer to this conundrum is. I don’t think I can turn a blind eye to poverty, if I could I probably wouldn’t be here. At the same time, I really don’t like being bombarded. I ended up feeling horrible the other day. I didn’t have enough to give everyone. Plus I felt as though I was “expected” to give, which didn’t really feel right.

It’s odd, because in contrast to all this poverty is a great deal of wealth. I’ve mentioned it before, but I can’t help but pointing out the contrasts yet again. The street child incident was on the way to get a wireless modem fixed, a contrast if I ever saw one. Perhaps even more notable was a drive down EU road. The street is lined with large hotels, but by night is also lined by sex workers, waiting for potential customers. I’ve seen the sex work industry before, most notably in Thailand, and it never seizes to upset me. This felt even sadder. The women seemed so exposed, waiting on the streets with no protection at all. And speaking of protection, in a country and city with such high AIDS rates, I can only hope that condoms are widely distributed and used. But based on what I’ve read and learned, I fear this isn’t true. As I drove by, I realized all the young girls were working a job that is almost inevitably a death sentence a fact that later brought me to tears in the solitude of my room. The next day I found myself at a yoga class. Yes, Addis has MULTIPLE yoga offerings, a treat that delighted me when I first heard. This studio was located on the same road I had driven down the night before, just up the block. As the sun set during the practice, I found myself distracted, looking out the window at ever opportunity. How could I be here, enjoying this peaceful practice, when such sadness raged right outside? There doesn’t seem to be a correct answer. I know I could drive myself crazy. And my enjoyment of a yoga class won’t alter the lives of the sex workers I passed. And I know I am doing good work here with CARE. But of all the challenges this city offers, contending with the daily poverty may be the toughest by far.

Just an FYI- My blog seems to be illegal here. I can post on it, but I can’t see it. So if you’ve commented, I haven’t read it. And please, if you want to comment, please message me directly.

The Little Boy and The Luna Bar!

2010-08-22T10:17:00.000-07:00

I got the Internet to work on my mobile modem! Hurray!

So two things you need to know about me for this story.

1) I LOVE Ethiopian children! I think Paul's biggest fear regarding Ethiopia is that he will arrive here and find I've already adopted (or otherwise procured) a small family of children. This may be because I've been talking about how cute Ethiopian children are since I've found out I am coming here. And because I keep sending him pictures of Ethiopian kids, many from adoption websites. Or maybe because I keep saying how great it would be to adopt an Ethiopian child. But I digress.....

2) I also LOVE Luna bars. I always have at least one on me! But I didn't bring many here because they tend to melt.

Anyways, in my time wondering the streets so far I've been bombarded by kids asking for money. I know not to give them any, because it just promotes further street begging, and the kids usually don't get to keep the money anyway. In Thailand and while traveling around Asia I used to always try to have some sort of food on me to give the street kids. I plan to do the same here, as well as find the local organization that provides meal tickets that can be bought and given out, but its only day 2! So I've had 2 days of having to say no to kids who beg for money, which is heart breaking in so many ways. Besides just begging, some of the kids here are really aggressive, shouting "give me money" and stopping right in front of me so I have to walk around them. There are no words to explain how difficult it is to know that I can't, no matter how much I want, help each child.

Today was different. While walking home a small boy with the largest smile I've ever seen ran along beside me. He held his hand out and when I shook my head no he just continued to smile and run. I looked for a place to buy fruit or a snack, but we didn't pass anything open on Sunday. This went on for about 5 minutes when I crossed a busy intersection and he didn't follow. He just stopped and continued smiling. It was then that I realized I DID have food with me. My last Luna Bar! As if he knew I was going to crack he looked at me, still grinning, as I walked back to give him the precious Luna Bar. I'm not sure he knew what it was, and he definitely didn't know how stupidly expensive one of those things cost at Whole Foods, but he smiled even wider as he ran away.

The problem always is, you can't help everybody. A few blocks later, I walked past a mother and her small daughter, who was dressed all in pink, also asking for money. Now anyone who knows me knew I was going to be a sucker for this situation, so I went to a nearby kiosk and bought the girl some snacks and some water. Except other children saw me. It was a long, heartbreaking walk home.

I've learned I need to find the organization, Hope Enterprise, that provides meal tickets for foods. I've also been reinvigorated for work tomorrow, as I hope the work I will do will have an impact in reducing the dire poverty, especially for mothers and children. Speaking of work, tomorrow is my first day! There will be lots to tell soon.

Welcome to Ethiopia!

2010-08-22T06:08:00.000-07:00

This entry is in two parts, the first from the Frankfurt area on Friday and the second from today, Sunday, in a café with wifi.

Blog August 20, 2010

Frankfurt Airport

I am writing this blurry eyed and a bit disoriented, from the Frankfurt airport, where I have a 4-hour layover. I had intended to sleep through my entire first flight, but my fellow passengers had other ideas. Seated next to 3 loud Spaniards and directly above a horde of giggling French teenagers, I was struck with the observation that as much as everyone complains about rude Americans, my countrymen tend to make good travelers. It is very rarely the loud American chatting loudly on an international flight. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think Americans often do a good job representing themselves on international travels, but we tend to be good on planes. But maybe I am just cranky due to lack of sleep; it wouldn’t be the first time!

I was struck with some serious homesickness, as I lay awake on the plane. I think I am really going to miss my parents and sister, who I only got to spend a few days with over the past few days. All three of them, my parents and JEN, were very supportive and comforting as I prepared to depart! I am lucky to have such an amazing family!

I still have a few hours left of my layover, which I plan to spend on reading about Ethiopia or perhaps napping.

Arrival in Addis

Here I am, almost 48 hours into my time in Ethiopia! A lack of time combined with a lack of Internet access has limited my blog posting, but I’ll write this on Word, with the idea that the Internet will come back in the café I am by the time I am down, or I can post it from work tomorrow.

My second flight was uneventful and much quieter! We landed in Addis just as the sun was setting, and a CARE driver who took me to my guesthouse met me. On the way I got my first views of the city, which seemed lively on a Friday night. I also took in the vast number of people, including children, who seemed to be sleeping on the street.

I had a bit of a culture shock moment on Saturday morning, after having spent the night half awake, due to jetlag. I felt scared and a bit homesick, and considered how long I could stay in my room. The downpour of rain didn’t help my motivation! I soon realized how silly a consideration this would be, and rallied myself to get up at least to purchase a cell phone. This was a good call, because the city was far less scary in reality than it seemed in my head. While the children and other beggars are a bit aggressive, most people are friendly, and I easily made it to the mall to purchase my phone and my (so far ineffective) Internet connector. On my way back I got a bit turned around and asked a British woman for directions. When she heard it was my first day in town she invited me to lunch and an art show with her and a friend. Not knowing many people in the city I of course took her up on her offer, which turned out to be a really great choice. I was taken on a great “welcome” tour of the city, which included great local food, an art show and yummy pastries. I learned where the good bookstores are, as well as supermarkets, cheap DVDS, relatively reliable wifi cafe and other good expat resources. I also have a growing list of things to see again, like the palace located at the top of the city, and many of the East Orthodox Churches that can be found throughout.

Addis is unlike any city I’ve ever been too. There is more (and more disturbing) poverty than anything I’ve before experienced. But there is also a great deal of very wealthy Ethiopians, who don’t seem to mind showing off what they have. And, like almost any other less developed country I’ve been to, there is a huge ex-pat scene. When the sun comes up the air clears, as it has both afternoons and it is clear this is overall a happy, welcoming city. The air is cool and brisk, there is green everywhere and almost everyone is smiling. The food is terrific and very cheap! In the famous words of Annie “I think I’m gunna like it here”

On that cheesy note I see the Internet is working, so I will post this before it is to late!

Greetings from the Vancouver Airport

2010-08-14T21:45:00.000-07:00

Odd, you may be thinking. Isn't Emily headed to Africa in just 5 days?! Its true, but that didn't prevent an all to fast visit to my favorite Canadian City (also the only one I've ever been to). As most of you can guess, Paul was in town, having just finished up his stint in Darfur. We spent several lovely days in D.C., seeing many of the city's famous sites, bicycling around and generally having a great farewell to the city. It was a bittersweet farewell. I really had a wonderful summer, I enjoyed and learned a great deal during my internship, and I loved being so close to my best friends for a few months. I am however looking forward to some new adventures ahead!

The short but sweet Vancouver vacation allowed to to be outside for more than 3 hours for the first time in a really long time! Paul and I took advantage of the amazingly crisp and sunny weather bicycling around Stanley Park and Granville Island and enjoying Vancouver's array of food choices! Now is as good a time as any to send a brief but deserved shout out to my wonderful boyfriend! Paul has been there for me through many ups and downs and has managed to shift several factors in his life to be able to join me in Ethiopia this fall! For those of you who have "followed" our relationship, you know we've been long distance for far to long! We are both looking forward to a few months at least where we can be together every day. Paul arrives in the country in early September, and I am sure he will be a figure in many of my updates.

I have a few days of packing/family time ahead. I just learned my amazing wonderful sister (the one and only Jennifer Paige Gold),who has been getting certified to teach yoga, will be home today which is very exciting news. More from Ethiopia soon......

It's That Time Again

2010-08-03T07:48:00.000-07:00

I am leaving for Ethiopia in 16 Days! I am not sure what happened to the summer, which I know isn't over just yet, but has seemed to fly by! Anyway, I thought I would take this time to reintroduce my blog (back by popular demand) and let all of you know what's going on. It hasn't really sunk in yet that I have a big upcoming trip, so I am hoping this blog will make it all seem a bit more "real".

On August 19th I will depart from NYC to Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia. I've never been to Africa before, and am both really excited and really nervous! I will be interning with CARE, an organization that I've admired since my Emory days (CARE's headquarters are based in ATL). I am going to be working on an urban adolescent health program, doing project design for a program that will be focusing on sexual health, including family planning and HIV/AIDS. For now that's all I really know about my work, I am sure I will have lots more to say soon.

The next few weeks look to be crazy, so this is as good a time as ever to give a shout out to some awesome friends who have made this a truly awesome summer. For the 1st time since 2006 I got to live in the same city and so many of my great Emory friends and I loved (almost) every minute of it. While my liver will surely need detoxing, and its been disheartening to realize so clearly that I can no longer sustain my 21 year old lifestyle, its really been a great summer! The biggest news probably is that I've welcomed meat back into my life, and even though I think my friends joined mostly to watch my stomach explode (it didn't) it was a major milestone.

Paul arrives here on Friday, which of course makes me smile. Some updates about that (NOT what you are thinking) will get their own deserved blog post too.

Also of note, Darcy has generously offered to ghost write my blogs, so while I haven't taken her up on her offer just yet, if you notice a vast improvement in my writing and grammar, it was not a lobotomy!

It's my 2nd to last day of my summer internship here at JSI, so I must go back to work. More to tell real soon!

Goodbye Mae Sot, Hello Katmandu!

2009-07-28T23:04:00.000-07:00

My promised and much thought about "exit blog" was put off by finishing touches to my report, goodbye meals and festivities and general "leaving activities". So I find myself in Nepal, first reflecting, in print at least, about my experience in Thailand. I know people are wanting to hear about THIS part of the trip, but patience dear readers, that part will come soon enough :)

Leaving Mae Sot, and Thailand, was a mixed bag this time around. I really enjoyed my time in Mae Sot, but have realized that three months was not enough time to really get to know the place. It felt that once I got my footing, figured out where I wanted to take the report, it was almost time for me to leave! I certainly learned a great deal, and am very proud of the final outcome of the report. It was sad saying goodbye to friends and co-workers, and of course, Thailand! That being said, I have no doubt I will be back in Thailand again, hopefully soon! I will have pictures of my last days in Mae Sot posted sometime soon. Also coming soon, stories from Nepal...............

My Report is Done!

2009-07-21T22:07:00.000-07:00

3 months of work are complete! I have many reflections on the work I've done and time I've spent here, that I will happily write about tomorrow, when I am NOT WORKING! I just wanted to share this exciting news with the world :)

Mostly Pictures

2009-07-13T04:47:00.000-07:00

With less than 2 weeks left to my stint in Mae Sot, it has become "crunch time" for my report. That being said, this much overdue post will be brief (and mostly pictures).

First of all, Paul's visit (which was already documented, but has disappeared from this blog was great! We were lucky enough to spend a few days in Bangkok, where we both wandered around, slightly alarmed by tall buildings and vast amounts of electricity. Whoever thought it was a good idea to let 2 poor non-profit workers loose on the "executive lounge" of a 5 star hotel didn't realize how much free food and drinks it was possible for 2 people to consume! He also got to see my current home town of Mae Sot, and have a glimpse of the work I am doing here. In Chiang Mai we caught up with some old friends and co-workers. See pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/NewAlbum63009309PM#

I've been back for over 2 weeks now, and its been quite busy! I realized my tourist visa was about to expire, and was forced to do the Thai ex-pat tradition of the Burma visa run. Fortunately, I live less than 5 minutes from the Burma border, so this whole process took minimal time. It is something to cross a short bridge and suddenly be in a whole different world. The Burmese government only lets visitors walk two kilometers into the town, so there is not much to see. It is a shock to compare the differences between Mae Sot, and Myrawadee, the parrallel Burmese town. While Mae Sot has a good deal of poverty, there were countless more people begging for food and money, including children and the elderly. The clean paved roads I usually take for granted in Mae Sot were suddenly missing, and I found my feet and the back of my legs covered with mud. Crossing the bridge one can clearly see people floating back and forth on tires, risking their safety for a chance to get into Thailand, even just for a short period of time.

A few days later I visited Mae La refugee Camp. Only an hour and a half away, it was another world. Technically we weren't supposed to be there, so we only had an hour in the camp before being asked to leave. As soon as we walked in we were surrounded by small children, in various stages of dress, running to greet us. After being given some candy and food (we were happy to honor this "farang requirement") they joined us in exploring the camp. Oddest for me was seeing the cultural orientation center, with many of the forms and data I used to process at my old job at HIAS! Interesting to see the other side, and once again put names and faces with the numbers I used to see.

Its odd, the camp has been here for over 2 decades, and in many ways it seemed more like a large (over 50,000 people) village. Surrounded by beautiful green mountains and cliffs, it was an odd contrast when considering what people had to go through to get there, and what the actual standards of living were like.

Much in need of a break, myself and 2 friends spent last Saturday in Sukathai, the old capital of SIAM. For the first time since I've been in Thailand I've had a full day of sun! I forgot how hot in can get in this country! It was great, renting bikes and exploring the large old ruins. Breathing in fresh air and sunshine! While we had to suffer "a ride of death" to get back to Mae Sot we managed to make it back in one day and one piece!!

I know I owe many of you emails and fb messages, I WILL get back to you ASAP, things have just been a bit insane!

Pictures from Pauls visit are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/NewAlbum63009309PM#

All the rest of this trip can be found here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/BorderCrossingMaeLaRefugeeCampSukathaiAndBuddhistLentParade?pli=1&gsessionid=QK4qjKd6yGo0PiX8_hsthw#

Enjoy and longer post soon!

Early One Morning, The Sun was Shining

2009-06-10T16:27:00.000-07:00

I’m in Bangkok, just off the night bus from Mae Sot. The 8-hour ride took me a world away. I bordered the bus at 9pm, at what could have been 3 am, for how dark and quite it was on Mae Sot’s streets. I realized, as the bus quickly spread out of the city, it was my first time in an enclosed car since arriving in Mae Sot, and how odd it was to move past all the familiar sights quickly and silently. Leaving Mae Sot involves going through not one but four legal checkpoints, where Thai officers check for people illegally trying to enter Thailand from Burma. The first time the officers got on I pulled out my passport, I wasn’t even looked at, let alone my documents. I watched as others were asked to show multiple ids, and a few brave souls, dressed in traditional Karen clothing were pulled off the bus to be questioned, but later allowed back on. By the time we made it to the fourth checkpoint I left my headphones on, and watched the same process again. No one seemed to mind as they were tested on their Thai language, and had all their documents scrutinized.

After the 4^th checkpoint it was lights out, and I managed to sleep most of the ride down. I awoke with a start to more noise and light then I have heard in a month! We were in Bangkok, in the loud crowded bus station, busy and noisy at 5:30 a.m.! I had been warned that a trip to Bangkok from Mae Sot is a bit disconcerting, as there are more people, more cars, more buildings, more EVERYTHING. Its true, and it was a certainly a rude awakening. At the same time, for this New York girl, there was something comforting about the early morning greeting. I don’t love Bangkok, I’ve spent a good deal of time here but its always to meet someone, or as a cross point to somewhere else. It’s the same this time, though there was something comforting as I sped down the highway in a metered cab, observing that the bus stop I arrived in was probably larger than all of Mae Sot.

I find myself now at a lovely hotel (Thanks Dad!), which feels a universe away from Mae Sot. I see the sun rising behind Bangkok’s numerous skyscrapers, which is exciting coming from all the rain. I’m impatiently wait the next 12 or so hours till Paul arrives in Thailand and am off to find a much needed Western breakfast

Shelter from the Storm......

2009-06-08T20:08:00.000-07:00

Is something that's really not possible here in Mae Sot. I've been in Thailand, and other areas of SE Asia during the rainy season before, but I've never seen anything like this. Nor have other "long-timers" of Mae Sot, people who have been here for years. Apparently Burma is experiencing severe monsoons, which have illegally crossed the border into Mae Sot.

I spent a few days thinking I could avoid the rain. This had me one day spending an entire afternoon in Hazel Cafe, Mae Sot's version of Starbucks, over-air conditioned, filled with wi-fi and over-priced coffee drinks. I didn't mind, but realized this couldn't become a daily habit. The next day I left work late only to find myself in the middle of a down-pour. Luckily, my friend Matt happened to arrive and provided "shelter from the storm" at his home for about 2 hours, before we both realized the rain wasn't going to stop. From that point on, I've come to embrace the fact that if I need to go somewhere, I'm going to end up soaked (bad move bringing all the white shirts and fisherman pants, but great call on packing the heavy duty rain coat!)

Sunday, myself and a bunch of farang NGO workers decided we should embrace the weather and cycle out of the city. While Mae Sot is a great town, there really isn't that much to DO. It has an active enough nightlife (ok, 3 bars, but at U.S. $1.50 for a litre of beer, no one is complaining) but thats about it. So a trip to "The Buddha's Footprint" was in store.

"Just a 20 kilometer trip" to the top of a hill, where apparently a clear footprint, now plated in gold paint, can be found above a Budhist temple. The ride provided a beautiful tour of the area surrounding Mae Sot, rice fields, hills, and the fast moving river separating Thailand from Burma. Of course every time someone took a raincoat off the rains started to pour, but we had all grown to accept the fact we would be soaked, and cycled through the rain. What I wasn't prepared for was the significantly uphill ride we had ahead of us. As Mae Sot is basically a flat valley, most people, including myself, don't have gears, or speeds, on their bikes. The first few hills, until I learned to embrace momentum,were certainly a challenge.

Our group did suffer one near disaster, as Jess's back tire went flat just as the road was beginning to go uphill. Luckily, we had a good team effort, and we were quickly able to lock her bike to a nearby tree and Reed took her the rest of the way, as she sat side-saddle on the back of his bike.

We made it to the temple, exhausted and realizing none of us had been smart enough to bring much food! It was only then that we learned that we still had a climb to the top. Climbing 200 or so steps we made it to the top. The actual foot print was a bit anti-climatic, but the trip was worth it for the view alone! We were treated to a beautiful landscape and even a few fleeting moments of sunlight!

The ride home proved, with the exception of many many shaky legs, and of course a few more downpours, to be relatively un-eventful. All and all a lovely, if very exhausting day!

Pictures can be found here: Still haven't figured out how to get them right onto the page, but hoping someone will show me in the next 2 weeks (ahem)...............

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/Jun62009?authkey=Gv1sRgCJHWl_v41-GJVg#

Happy One Year Anniversary to me!

2009-06-02T22:17:00.000-07:00

This is more a procrastination than anything else! But if you had told me a year ago, today, that in one year I'd be working on the other side of the world to help with others health, I would have thought you were crazy! Ditto to riding my bike past elephants (yes there is now an elephant in Mae Sot), eating chicken knee (I DON'T want to talk about it) and just overall having a brand new, exciting adventure and learning experience!

Much thanks to all my family and friends who were there for me over this past year (plus) Lots of Love to you all.

Peace, Love and good health,

Emily

Buckets of Rain......

2009-05-31T00:49:00.000-07:00

This title is inspired by a number of things. Most obviously, they play Bob Dylan EVERYWHERE here. I, of course, am not complaining, and it certainly is much much better than the continuous loop of Jack Johnson I heard while traveling SE Asia last time around.

Secondly, the rainy season does seem to have officially begun here. Its offered a welcome cool down to the slightly stifling heat, though it is still pretty hot. The only true downside is the fact that my computer accompanies me to work and about most days, so I found myself a bit at the mercy of the weather, as I would have no problem biking home, but my MacBook might.

"Buckets of Tears" felt more apt recently. I began doing interviews last week, and had a rather heartbreaking day last Sunday. I met with an HIV/AIDS support group, run in part by the amazing, local, Mae Tao Clinic. The participants were kind enough to let me ask them some questions, and I was truly awed by the sense of hope and strength the interviewees possessed. Most of them had migrated to Thailand for work, but as the disease developed they've found themselves to weak to work, and surviving on the support of organizations like the clinic and MSF. Many had not seen their families in years, and were to scared to tell them about their illness, because of the attached stigma in Burma. Of course the most heartbreaking were their children, some of whom were also HIV+, but all of whom had at least one parent that is being kept alive by donated medicine.

Despite the sadness I felt, I was awed by the courage and optimism I witnessed. One woman told me how happy she is to wake every morning, glad to see a new day. Another, whose health has thankfully remained well so far, spoke about how lucky she felt to be able to inspire others who are HIV+ with her own health. Before we left Eh Wah and I bought some snacks and candies for the children, and spent some time watching the role playing exercises the group was participating in. The kids happily and politely accepted the candy we had, and ran around chasing inflated condom balloons, clearly over-joyed with the day. We were a big hit, as several of our interviewees asked to take pictures with us before we left.

The day was certainly sad, and I went through a bit of an emotional withdrawal when I left. I am working on detaching a bit, which seems like a useful skill for the line of work I am planning to be involved in. For now I am just hoping I can do justice to the stories I heard, and make sure people's voices are heard.

I know I've heard from many of you about my lack of blogging, I will try to be better! Post comments, knowing people are reading is a motivation to write!

I haven't figured out how to post pictures to blogger just yet, but heres a link to Picassa, enjoy.......

http://picasaweb.google.com/ejgold/ChiangMaiAndFirstDaysInMaeSot?authkey=Gv1sRgCJTGg56OvNzq1AE#

A glimpse of Mae Sot (and my own blessed life)

2009-05-21T06:55:00.000-07:00

This is a vibrant, diverse city (town) that is hard to put into words. That's what cameras are for! Unfortunately, my computer and internet do not seem to agree, so while I struggle to upload some photos onto some internet format, I will do a bit to give you a glimpse to my first real week here.
As I've already written about, Mae Sot often feels more like Burma than it does Thailand! This has both positive and negative aspects. I will just cover the positives now; as I am sure Mae Sot's downsides will come out at a later date! I certainly feel fortunate to immerse myself in a culture so few outsiders get to see. "A culture" is not, in fact, a correct term, as the world that has formed here is a mixture of ethnicities in Culture. It creates a thrill every time I walk outside. And it offers the opportunity to see how these many groups that often seem unable to co-exist inside Burma have come together, in the market, in various NGOs and really, wherever one looks. The kindness of the people of Burma might actually rival the Thais. I have never met such generous optimistic people! I cannot go anywhere, whether it is my agencies office, the local health clinic (which deserves its own entry, after interviews that should happen this week) or the local orphan school without being offered cold water, some fruit or even a meal. People who often have almost nothing go out of the way to share the little they have. This was most notable and the orphan school I visited a few days ago. A friend of a friend asked if I would like to visit his friend's school, which serves 120 + students, grades 1-10, who are orphans from the Karen State in Burma. As it is summer session there is currently only one teacher, an American man, who teaches English lessons 2 hours a day. The students were unbelievable! The only toys I noticed during my 3-hour visit were one Lego set and a few picture books. Yet all the children were happily entertaining themselves, older children watching out for younger ones, and not one child fighting or crying! Having cared for American children in a variety of settings this was beyond shocking! Witnessing the class was even more so, as the children all sat silently as their teacher explained "ages". It was unclear how much was being absorbed in such a large setting, but it was clear each child truly valued each minute of education he/she was lucky enough to receive. I admit I've become a bit jaded in the 2 years since I last left Asia, but this moment took me back, and made me realize how lucky I am to have lived the life I have. Hopefully I will have the chance to help out in the school in some context soon.
The reason I haven't already committed completely is that my work has gone into full swing since I have last written. Having finally created a work plan and a decent outline, I have had the chance to begin the interview process. Yesterday myself and a co-worker/translator/former student and I conducted TEN interviews with migrant workers, some of whom are HIV positive. Once again, I was struck by the positive nature the men and women I interviewed possessed. Some had not seen their families for years, having left Burma to support them. Most of them were stuck in low paying, factory jobs, for which they had risked their lives leaving their home towns and everyone they knew and loved. And some faced the extra hurdle of the devastating HIV illness. Everyone we spoke to spoke of his or her desire for Burma's government to better serve its people's health needs! FYI- The World Health Organization ranked Burma's Health program 190 out of 191, only Sierra Leone's ranked lower! This time I was reminded how fortunate I was that when I faced my own health scare I was able to access the care I did! People seemed happy to be able to share their stories, and I am honored to have the opportunity to do something positive with them.

Some procastination

2009-05-15T04:56:00.000-07:00

I now have my own place and a bicycle (and a helmet,of course) making me as legal a resident of Mae Sot as most of the other inhabitants of this crazy city. I am still not sure what to make of this place, there seems far to much to take in. It will have to be captured in a different post. For now, a bit about the work I've been doing.
I am really enjoying the work I am doing. Yes, its only been a day, but if nothing else, it seems like it will be a great learning experience. As I think I have mentioned before, I am going to be writing a report on incidences of HIV/AIDS on the Burma border, especially in regards to women. The aims of the report are to highlight how Burma's goverment, the SPDC, so severly restricts human rights and economic opportunities, that women are often forced to choose sex work as there best option to sustain a livelyhood. As the government spends less than 1% on all health services, most women have little to no knowledge of HIV or other sexually transmitted diseases. When finished, the report will be distributed to relevant departments of international organizations. Besides everything I'm learning, I am getting VERY excited about school. I see how much I've been missing research, especially on a topic I am so interested in! Also notably, as I've perused the online databases. Johns Hopkins School of Public Health shows up over and over again. So it looks like I will be in the right place come fall!
I am still waiting for the interviews that have been conducted to be translated in English. Although this should have already been done, the positive side of this delay is I will have the chance to add additional relevant questions.
I have more to write, but a lovely Burmese man just walked by and handed me two, fresh off the tree mangoes! They are tempting me, and eating them anywhere near my computer could be a fatal mistake!
I'll end this post on a rather somber note. I am not sure how much the recent re-imprisimonet of Nobel Peace Prize Laurette Daw Aung San Suu Kyi has been covered in the media outside of Asia, but please take a few minutes to read about whats going on, and sign a petition. Needless to say, this has been the topic of most major talk here, and Yee and I spent some time yesterday drafting a press release. I will be sure to dedicate another post to explaining the signifigance of the Burmese goverment's latest ploy.
See here: http://burmapoint.com/index.php
or see, even CNN is covering it!
http://edition.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/asiapcf/05/14/myanmar.suukyi/index.html

Min Gala Ba From Mae Sot (aka little Burma)

2009-05-14T02:43:00.001-07:00

Somehow I ended up with a "mini-vaca" in Chiang Mai, and, of course, I had no reason to complain. I spent my extra days in Chiang Mai filling up on all my favorite Northern Thai delicacies, visiting with old friends and indulging in some of the western opportunities that Chiang Mai has to offer. Most importantly these include yoga classes (very much needed) and movies (the sub-par Wolverine). After this lovely little blast from the past it was finally time to head South West towards Mae Sot.

Myself, Yee, plus two of her friends piled into a "salon car" to make the journey towards Mae Sot. Besides the fact that I found myself in a car filled with Canadians, which led to a "Canada's greatest one hit wonders play list" it was a beautiful journey. The route towards Mae Sot is quite beautiful, through rural Thailand and finally through the winding roads of the lush mountains that form the natural borders between Thailand and Burma.

Mae Sot, while less than five hours from Chiang Mai, feels a world apart. At least half the population is Burmese, a fact evident by just a few glances through the main market. Longyi clad people abound, as do women in Muslim head garbs, Women's faces dotted with the milky white makeup many Burmese seem to favor. Stalls offer packets of Burmese tea and common Burmese treats, and most of the conversations overheard are in Burmese. Besides a feast for the eyes, the market also offers a feast for every taste bud. All of my favorite Burmese foods are available. More notable however, is the meat choices. Even more than Thais, Burmese waste NO parts of an animal, and everything from pig snout to ox-tails and everything in-between is available. While I tend to be relatively "flexaterian" when it comes to food when traveling, I was certainly happy to have the vegetarian excuse for time being!

I started work today. The office visit began with even more warm meetings from some more former students who seemed even happier to see me! And of course I was happy to see them, and hear about updates in their lives, most notably one recent marriage! I am excited to get started on this report, which I should probably get back to now. More dispatches from the border to come.......

Some updates and fast facts

2009-05-08T01:13:00.000-07:00

I should be writing a whole entry, but so much seems to have happened in the past few days, and as I have yet to bunk down in one place, I think I will structure this entry as updates from Chiang Mai and some new fun facts about my life here so far! Read on!

Changes from my last time in Chiang Mai:
Khao Soy Consumption: Khao Soy, a northern Thailand speciality, might be one of my favorite foods in the world! I've been dreaming about it for over two years and talking about it rather regularly since I learned I would be back in Thailand. So imagine my surprise, when having my first (DELICIOUS, INDESCRIBABLE) bowl of Khao Soy this afternoon, I could not even finish it! I do plan on continuing to try.
Less surprising was the fact that I can no longer consume Sang Son the way I used to. This is probably a good thing for both my body and soul!
Apparently I curse Houses- I've spent the past few nights at Felicia and Todd's lovely home (if you are reading this, thanks again guys!). Somehow though, my presence there seems to have cursed the residence. I woke up the first morning with all the electricity out, which is not something that happens to often, or for more then a short time, in Chiang Mai. The next morning I awoke to a powered home that this time had no running water and no wifi! I'm not sure what I've done to have this power, but it is one I feel bad about. Fortunately for everyone involved, my lovely hosts can't host me the next few nights, which brings me to my next fun fact.....
I'm back in Tri Gong- The residency I lived in last time I was in CM, was one of the reasons my time so great. Located in a terrific spot of town, I had plenty of friends there, hot water, AC, wifi, and tons of stations on the TV (even Star World, which showed old episodes of Lost and The Office). Since I left, the owner, Adam, has transitioned his business to cater almost exclusively to tourists on short term stays. Adam, for those of you who don't know, is an extremely kind Thai man, who served as my "Thai father" while I was here. A father so over-protective he certainly put my dad to shame! Happily, when I stopped by the other night he greeted me with a warm smile and a loud clap of his hands as he shouted my name! He has offered me a super deal to stay for the next few nights. I'm happily sitting in my room (not the same as last time) watching The Wizard of Oz and enjoying unlimited AC!

By the Numbers:
This brings the total # of places I've stayed in the past 6 nights to 4. One night with a former student, one night at Kham Thi's (see below), 3 nights at Felicias and now Tri Gong for my remaining time in CM
The number of mosquito bites I have: so far I count 23. I'm sure by the time I post this it will be much higher. Why do I have the sweetest blood?!
Number of small Burmese children I've contemplated kidnapping: One! Those of you who followed my trip last time around, or listen to my countless Thailand story, might remember Kham Thi and Me Me. Kham Thi is a former co-workers, and one of my very good friends in CM. I used to give Me Me English lessons, which usually ended up as coloring events or dance parties. She did learn some very useful English words from me, including "give me five" "dance" and "guitar". She is now 9, and just as smart and full of energy as before. She gave me the warmest welcome I've received so far, running out to the motorbike to yell "I miss you" before I even got near the house. Kham Thi, is just as darling and hard working as ever, the only MAJOR change is she is now 8 months pregnant! Like most of the Burmese I know, this does not in any way hinder the work she does, but she did promise to take it a bit easy. Fortunately it sounds like she is taking care of herself, of course I did give her a lecture!
Number of Thai Massages- Just one so far, but that will change ASAP

Theres much much more to tell, but its past noon and I still haven't had anything to eat! I'm off to find more Khao Soy, and another massage as well.
Tales from Mae Sot are sure to come soon..........

Same Same but different!

2009-05-04T16:14:00.000-07:00

"Same, Same but different" is a call farang tourists often hear when walking through any sort of touristy street market (the Chiang Mai night market and Kho Sahn Road being two examples). While the term is meant to imply the vendor has similar goods to one nearby, yet different (and therefore better), I noticed that phrase make its way into my thoughts the moment I stepped out of Chiang Mai's airport and into the hot, thick, Thailand air. Arriving late in the evening, 2 of my former (and I guess current again) co-workers met me at the airport and traveled with me back to my organizations lodgings. The drive home felt like a very odd dream. In a way it was as though I never left. I recognized a great deal of the sites we passed (Central Airport Plaza, some old friends' apartments, a former favorite restaurant, my old gym, etc.) and was hit with a flash of great memories, and in a way it felt as though I had never left. At the same time, things certainly felt different, as co-workers who I had once been close with acted shy towards me again, as if I were a new recruit, and I did notice many changes on the street (including at least one new KFC). All in all, it felt a bit surreal, though that might be in part to blame on the 26 hour trip!
On a different note, I got a stark reminder of my own American consumerism and materialistic values. Only 2 days ago I dedicated an entire blog entry to my pride in packing just one large pack! This accomplishment stayed with me throughout my entire journey, through the point when I happily learned that my bag had made it through the 3 flight luggage exchange and was with me in Thailand. My pride was dashed moments later, however, when I met my coworkers. They both started laughing, amazed that anyone could own, let alone pack, so many things! My pride quickly turned to embarrassment, as I realized how much (material goods and otherwise) I truly take for granted in the U.S.
I am finishing this post up at the Chiang Mai office, the same one I worked at 2 years ago! I've gotten to see some old students, which has been a special treat. One more surprise has been how much of my memory is tied up in my sense of smell. I realized this morning, when we stopped at the market for breakfast, how much I missed certain scents, even the bad ones!
I'm off now to eat some of the delicious fresh fruit I have been missing (mangosteen if you are curious)

14 Hours and one Bubble Tea Later

2009-05-03T22:38:00.000-07:00

Free wi-fi and a 3 hour layover seemed a perfect reason to give a bit of an update. I just departed a 14 hour flight and am currently enjoy HKK's beautiful spotless airport. And with all my planning and packing I neglected to realize a very exciting fact. Hong Kong's airport is filled with places that serve bubble tea. So on that happy note I list some other "real time facts" from my trip so far:
Number of empty seats next to me on the plane:1
Numbers of hours slept on plane: 6.5 (this is great)
Numbers of Movies watched : 1- The Reader, a great film, but probably not the best choice as there was a young boy sitting diagonally behind me.
Numbers of TV Shows Watched: 2 (5 episodes of 30 Rock and 2 of Curb Your Enthusiasm)
Numbers of Sections of the NYTimes Read: 1 (The Week in Review)
Number of times Nicholas Kristoff proved he is my hero (today): 1 http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/03/opinion/03kristof.html?_r=1 This is a great piece and fits into my next fact-
Number of surgical masks spotted: Countless, the fear of swine flu pandemic seems to have caught hold here!
Numbers of books read from the 6 I carried on with me: Zero (to many other options)
Number of bubble teas consumed: 1 (and counting)
Perhaps the most exciting part of this trip so far is that I seem to have gained some "travel creed". Last time I did this trip I was certainly the lost looking girl, unsure which documents to present and thrown off guard by the different flight options etc. This time I had to flight partners approach me to ask advice about Hong Kong, including one law student, who as it turns out will be continuing on to Burma. Happily I was able to provide him ALL the information I had on travelling there.
It doesn't quite feel like I am on the other side of the world. So far I've checked my email and facebook and discovered that my phone does seem to work over here (*note* blackberry users). I have about another hour till my flight, I might take this time to stretch a bit, a search out some more bubble tea. Happy Monday Everyone!!!

I'm Packin'

2009-05-02T12:55:00.001-07:00

There's no time to be modest here. I'm skilled in many things. Packing, however, is not one of them! Those of you who have traveled with me before, or had me as a visitor, know I tend to overpack, while forgetting something essential, like tooth-paste, or underwear. While I can't claim success in the latter quite yet, after many packings, un-packings and re-packings I reached my ultimate goal! Everything I want to bring fits in one (very large, stuffed to capacity) backpack!!! Of course this followed my mental debates of deciding between bring pants or presents for people I'm going to see, and calculating how much deet a person really does need. Tigz was there the whole time, clearly shedding all over my clothing to indicate he wants to come. So I also spent a bit of time wondering how long it would be before my parents noticed he was missing. I bet I have about a week!
I know I promised a few of you I would throw in a story about the last 36 hours or so, which included a goodbye dinner with far far far to much wine, Andrew my hero helping me dismantle my furniture and get into the Asia mindset with some Tiger beers, and of course the amazing goodbye dinner and some goodbye drinks. Unfortunatly, I still have to do a final run through of my packing, organize all the other stuff I brought home, and figure out where I can get cat food in Mae Sot.
So by the time most of you (the "bored at work crowd") are reading this, I will be on my way to Thailand. I have 3 flights and 22 hours of travel ahead of me! I'll be in contact on the other side!

A New York State of Mind

2009-04-29T08:36:00.000-07:00

While it still hasn't hit me that I will really be leaving NY in a few short days, I have begun reflecting on all the things I will miss about this incredible city. As many of you know (and some probably share) I have an un-dying love hate relationship with this city. Having been born and spent the early years of my life here, until my parents selfishly dragged me to the suburbs (though I suppose my amazing little sister was a fair trade-off), no city will ever compare! As any of you who have ever lived in another city with me know, there are countless things this city offers that nothing else does. Without further ado, what I'll miss most about New York!

Accessibility- No city in the world has as much to offer, and its all so easy to get to. There are about 10 sushi places within a two block radius, and I don't even really live in a residential area! Ditto for movie theaters, bars and pretty much everything else!
Movies- This city gets them first, and has more places to see them! The downside of course being that its 12 dollars a ticket! More movies to see, less money to see them!
Bagels- Anyone whose ever lived anywhere else with me knows I refuse to eat a bagel anywhere else! Its just bound to be a disappointment!
NY Accents- Ok, that is not really accurate. Its not so much that I will miss the sound of NY accents, in that my seems to blend in much better when there are others around. My mis-pronunciation of words like "forgot" and "call" seem to be much more susceptible to others mockery in other cities.
Food- I'm not even a foodie, but I will miss all the top dining options (at least during restaurant week), and eclectic cuisines from all over the world. The upshot is, in a week I'll be eating Khao Soy, Mohinga, La Pe do and all my other favorite Thai and Burmese foods!
Central Park- Some of the greatest people watching in the world (or dog watching as me and Ja prefer), the best place to go running (if you an avoid the bikers) and as cliche as it is, the best picnic spot in NY!
Yoga- Yes, I know I can practice in Thailand, and I am sure I'll find a studio in Baltimore (if anyone has any suggestions please give a shout out), but I can't imagine any place being as welcoming and loving as Laughing Lotus! I will miss all the great teachers and amazing friends I have there, as well as the great vibe I feel whenever I walk in the door!
Bookstores- Everywhere! While a decline in the number of nearby bookstores will be good on my wallet, I will miss the ability to wonder the city and come across a non- corporate book shop!
Coffee and tea shops!- Same as above, plus free wi-fi!
Walking- There are a few other cities in the world that have the same amazing public transportation that NYC offers. Sadly, this means in a few short months, I will probably be back behind the wheel of a car....watch out! (sorry environment)
Lost- Yes, I know I will be able to find it online, and probably buy the whole season on dvd in about 3 weeks, but I made a promise to save the last 2 episodes for a bit longer, and I'm only as good as my word! Losties that are reading this....NO SPOILERS!!!
My Apartment- I am sitting on my balcony as I write this, taking in the end of a beautiful sunset. Yes, I would be able to see more if it weren't for the post office, and yes, there's not much else here, but I really will miss this place! I'm near almost every subway line, I had a 7 minute walk to work, and the most AMAZING roommate!!!
Music- I realize there is music in other places, but I also know some of what I am missing this summer, most notably PHISH (at Jones Beach!!!) and Eddie Vedder! I'm sure there is more, but I don't want to know, so don't tell me!
Features in TV and Movies- I know it is silly, but I still get excited when I recognize a place in any of the countless movies and TV shows featured in NY. I guess I'll have the wire next year, but somehow I don't think that will be the same.........
Culture- Ok, so this isn't really true. I am one of those horrible people who never takes advantage of all the museums, theatre, etc this city has to offer, unless a friend from out of town drags me. That being said, I felt like I had to add that, because, hell, it is NY!!
The Daily Show- I'll miss my regular news update during the next 3 months! Plus, there's something nice about knowing Jon Stewart is in the same city as me!
My Family- Yes, I complain (especially about Long Island) but I have loved that they are this close. And its nice knowing no matter what else is going on, I get unconditional love from Tigger!

Things I won't miss:
Time Square- I hope I don't need to explain this!
Pigeons- I hate all birds, but these "rats with wings" are the worst!
Cost of Living- I've spent more during certain weekends than my current living stipend! I look forward to 20 baht dinners (aprox 50 cents) and 200 baht movies (about 5 dollars). Judging by the lovely apartment I put a deposit down on in Baltimore, that won't be to bad either!
Murray Hill- If you don't get this one, go to YouTube and search "Murray Hill" No offense to those of you who live there , but I'm sticking by this one!

One more thing........
The most important thing of all! I will miss all my family and friends who live here!!!! :) Please, please, please stay in touch!

What its all about

2009-04-29T07:26:00.001-07:00

Those of you that followed my journey last time around know I was working with an amazing Burmese Women's group, teaching women's empowerment, human rights, democracy building, health and of course, the dreaded English classes! I had an absolutely amazing trip, filled with incredible people and countless new experiences. I also became deeply involved in the Burmese democracy movement, a cause that I stay attached to after I moved back to NY.
I'll thought I'd take this time to explain a bit about what its all about.............
Burma is a country is South East Asia, that was once known as the "Rice Bowl of Asia" do to its wealth of natural resources and diverse cultures. The country was part of British India until gaining independence in 1948. While unified as one country, Burma is made up of 9 separate ethnic states, which were promised independence in 20 years. This promise was never granted, as in 1962 the democratic government was toppled by a military coup, installing a military dictatorship led by General Ne Win. He ruled until 1988, and under his "Burmese Way to Socialism" Burma went from Asia's "Rice Bowl" to one of the poorest, and sickest countries in the world.
In 1988 unrest over political corruption and economic mismanagement led to a country wide protests, began by students. The protests, which began on August 8th, 1988, are known as the 8888 revolutions. Thousands were killed and the protests eventually stopped, but the government did promise free elections for the first time in 30 years. In 1990, despite the military's attempt to fix the polls, the National League For Democracy, a pro-democracy party, won 392 out of 489 seats. Unfortunately the military government refused to acknowledge this, and stayed in power. Many of you might remember that another nation wide protest was held in fall of 2007, led by thousands of Buddhist monks, the country's most revered people. The military government once again crushed the people's protests, killing hundreds in the process.
Besides the continued suppression of democracy, the government also continues to persecute Burma's ethnic hill tribe groups. These groups, which maintain different cultures from those in mainland Burma, face continued threats from the military government. The military forces people off their land, uses women and children to test for landmines, recruits children soldiers and utilizes rape as a weapon of war. Since 1988 thousands of refugees have fled to neighboring countries, especially Thailand and Malaysia.
That (extremely short) summary brings us up to date. Stay tuned to learn about what I am doing to take part in the democracy movement and human rights struggle for the people of Burma

Getting Ready

2009-04-24T09:21:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the superior "summer of" blog!

I am about to embark on another jaunt to Northern Thailand. As most of you reading this already know, I am going to be spending 3 months working with a Burmese women's group, helping to anazlyze research and write a report on HIV/AIDS rates along the Burma border. It should be interesting and hopefully meaningful work, and should provide great preparation for School of Public Health which I am begining in the fall! Yes thats right, in the next 9 days I have to prepare for a 3 month trip to the other side of the world while completely pack up my apartment to ship things to Baltimore, where I will be pursuing my masters at Johns Hopkins. Of course I also am taking the time to see as many good friends in NY (who I will greatly miss) and foolishly try to get my life in order!

I want to give a big thank you to everyone who came out last night to party and donate to my cause and an even BIGGER shout out to all of you reading this (both near and far) who have stuck by me over the past, very turbulent, year! I couldn't be at this great place in my life if it wasn't for all of you!
Looking forward to hearing from everyone!

On a totally seperate note, to avoid the comments of my last blog, I freely acknowledge that I can't spell and I have little to no grasp of proper English grammar. If there is spell check where I am writing from, I promise to use it! Otherwise get off my back! You know who I'm talking too...